brigarpeon

Sure can With a Dakota Bellhousing you could put an AX15 behind it.

Hadn't given that a thought. With a complete JY axle that would be another benefit. In the article they said you could use your 30 stuff from the knuckles out, they actually did a bolt circle change to 5 on 5 1/2 and new stuff. They also started with a bare housing and built it up. With the JY complete axle the knuckle out stuff wouldn't need to be swapped to the 30. There wouldn't be any need or point. Thanks good catch.

I did this a few years back but the bed wasn't a Comanche. It was a stepside chevy bed that was a replacement for the stepside chevy bed I have on my IH 1110 Shorty. I flipped the bed rail to rail w/ some 1/4" foam sandwiched between them. Then I ran a couple of 3/8-16 eyebolts through the wood in the beds. Then crawled up inside and attached 4 rachet straps and tighten them each to snug in rotation then to tight in rotation. Worked with no problems for 400 miles. When I first got my Comanche I noticed the metal tie down rods in the bed. I thought of how much easier it woould be to do Comanche bed the same way. Flip her and rachet down to the tie down rods. Strapping it around the bedside could allow it to shift.

The only reason I went this direction is because; the project truck is 2 WD, The TJ axle was low miles, geared right and $250. I'll spend more than that to regear the 30 in the donor Comanche. It's a gas miser w/ 3:31's and has 200,000 miles on it so that would be an easy $5-600. I posted the article for the tech not the process, and really not the price tag. I really don't need a locked front axle. I just don't understand how the same axle used in a Jeep TJ with very good results can be considered so bad for a Comanche destinied for the same type of operation. If I had that kind if dinero I'd get (2) 9" Currie axles set up for the Comanche control arms and SOA.

Have a 79 Ford HP44 front and 60 rear, sold the tranny and T-case. I'm only spending $250 on the axle. Out of an F250 I hope. I know the Bronco 44's had the cast wedges on...so they're hard to use with an MJ suspension. If you already have the hosing, then go for it! Just upgrade the axle shafts to alloys...then you can do 37"-28" tires. TnT sells a weld on truss that will make installation really easy! Are you going to use the 60 rear? Planning to upgrade to 35 spline axles? You're going to have to bore out the spindles to accept 1.5" shafts. The stock 60 shafts are probobly 1.31" 30 spline shafts, which are the exact same as D44 shafts. ;) Out of a 79 F250 Highboy. I'm going to trade the carrier w/ gears and track lock for an Explorer 8.8. My buddy wants it for a Ford and he's looking for a reverse cut 44 for the front. He's 15 years younger than me so I was thinking to trade off the axle, leafs, blocks for some parts swapping help. I also have a 79 Scout frame w/ a 44 front and rear, 927 auto connected to a Dana 300 T-case. I could use the 44 out of that for the rear but it's only 3.54 gears. I'm not building an off road truck this will be a DD. I just want the 8.8 for the little extra strength, rear disc's and the one he has only has 72,000 miles on it but would need rebuilt w/ 4.10 gears to match the TJ I found w/ 57,000 at the JY.

What makes you tallk to me like that? The Title thread? Maybe I have different plans for the 3k. You could have PM'd that unless you wanted to be derogatory.

Have a 79 Ford HP44 front and 60 rear, sold the tranny and T-case. I'm only spending $250 on the axle.

Yeah that's my plan; already found 1 in the JY w/ 57,500, 4:10 for $250. I don't need the locker, YET. I merely posted the link for the JUNKYARD tech part for the others who could fiqure it out. I can trade a Dana 60 carrier w/4:10's and a Traclock to a buddy for an 8.8 explorer w/ 70,000 and disc's. I just put a 2.5L, AX5 w/21 spine 231 all out of a 52,000 mile wreck in my donor Comanche about a year and a half ago. Now, I bought an 87 truck for 1,000 from wahoosteeler. http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8333 I plan too have a rustfree truck w/ a 50,000 mile drive train for about 3,000 tHE WHOLE TRUCK. The truck is 2WD and the donor has 200,000 on the axles so that's why I can go with a TJ 44 and 8.8 with Low miles. These guys are a little off their rocker, the magazine spent 4k. I can't afford it but I will be driving a freshly painted, 4x4, rustfree truck with an average of 55,000 miles on the driveline for 3k+.

Um, you might want to research the D44HD that is in the WJs. Just because it is aluminum does not means it's weak. I did my research and it's rated last choice by the Pro Jeepers on everysite I looked at. If you have something different, I'm open.

It can be done in the "factory way" for sure. If you ever see what happens to the SLAVE when the clip falls off you will wish you changed it. Elsewise, why would a major clutch manufacturer like LUK, offer a kit and include it in their clutch kit? To tell you the truth THE BEST thing you can do with it all apart is get an early bellhousing and change over to the external slave cylinder and forget that shaft ride'n nightmare.

Normally the sign of a bad resistor pack is that is only works on high. But it can in some instances quit working all together. I assume you have checked for a blown fuse. It can also be a bad blower moter speed switch.

When it boils over it just adds more air to the system, it doesn't burp it. To do this you have to start it let it warm up but not get hot then cool down. Repeat 3 -4 times. Bleediing/Burping is Not blowing out all the coolant and then adding more til it's full, you will still have the same problem. Usually if a water pump needs replaced for internal wear it will be in warmer weather when the vanes on the pump that are worn down can not pump enough water through the radiator to keep the engine cool. Are the belts worn? Slippage can make it act like a bad pump.

As I said; when not running in 4WD all the time it doesn't matter whether the gears run on the drive or drift side. On a fully locked Rocker, FULL BOOGIE TRAIL BUGGY OR Mud Monster it would matter. The axle in a DD would only be engaged when needed. The yokes on the axles are much beefier hence the higher resistance to breakage at the point you've referenced and also heavier u joints. I don't have the desire to Impress anyone, don't care whether they know I have a 44 or not. I do care about breakage at the most miserable times. I have a front 79 Ford HP with lockouts and a Scout 44 w/ discs but that's just too much work for a DD.

The proper way to do it is fill it,and run it for a while shut it off ,purge it,,or burp it,,you can do this by squeezing on the top radiator hose,,it will help force any air bubbles out of it,,then start it again,,keep a check on the coolant level in the bottle,,make sure it stays full,two times should do this one,,and make sure the heater is on all the time your doing this,,have the temperature on hot all the way ,this helps circulate the coolant a lot better.

Yes drill out the rivet to remove the slave. LUK has a pin and retainer nut that they sell to replace the rivet. A little shadetree mechanical design and you can build a retainer with a screw, a tap and a nut. Think it through.

If you changed the Thermostat then it probably has an air lock in the cooling system.

Low Pinion housings were used for years by Chevy, International Harvester, early Ford even our beloved Jeeps. Not a problem if you don't run 4WD all the time. The only thing that makes this a hybrid is the axle tube and knuckles, usually they don't break anyway. The center section is still a 44 w/ all it's inherent strengths and the axle itself and it's yokes are beefier. This isn't a Rock Krawler upgrade it's a DD upgrade. It's all about perspective. BTW: The weakest 44 ever made you will find in the rear of a WJ and has an aluminum center section.

Because the article is about using the rubicon 44 hosing as a bolt in for an MJ.

I knew I had read this article somewhere. I was trying to find out more from the internet and not having much luck. Finally I found it in my temp files again. So.... here it is to share wit y'all. http://www.off-roadweb.com/tech/0702or_ ... index.html I just may have to get a project outline with upgrades going before I start on that truck I bought from WahooSteeler. This is a bolt on! In the body of the article, I believe on the second page it says to use the spindle out stuff ffrom your 30 for 5 x 4.5 pattern retention. In the article they upgraded to 5 x 5 1/2.

Those should be correct for a 4.0, I have a 2.5 and use FR5-1, stock number 7252, but the stock number doesn't matter. The 2.5 and 4.0 are basically the same block one just has 2 more cylinders.

Bosch NGK AUTOLITE PLATINUM In that order, I throw Champions at Wood Chucks new or old... plugs I mean. :rotfl2:

Sorry, but you are wrong. The back of the title form is a legal transfer of ownership document. Once the name of a buyer is filled in and the seller signs and dates it, that is a legal document that says ownership has been transferred to the person listed as the buyer. (In this case, the aforementioned "moron," although in this case he's really not a moron because he didn't do anything wrong.) The fact that the transfer of ownership has not been recorded at the DMV does not make it invalid, "wrong," or nonexistent. Sorry but I beg to differ, you are wrong. As stated here: http://www.dot.wisconsin.gov/drivers/forms/mv1.pdf the owner, as described in the first paragraph, thereby establishing ownership, is the name that appears on the title. I believe where you are becoming confused is the interim ownership of the vehicle. Between the seller actually selling the vehicle to a new owner and the new owner registering it. Yes in tha t case the new owner does actually own the property he is in possesion of, in this case that was a period of time beyond that which the bureau determines as sufficient to transfer the vehicle. This title is certainly valid but in the registered name of the person that the last state issued the title to as the registrar, it has never been transferred to Wisconsin. Just as our own personal checks have an expiration date as do pay checks, Income tax returns etc... The bureau has a time period for the transaction, a Lost/ Replacement/ Mutilated Title request would negate that time period and all previous titling. Signing and dating the title without registration does give temporary ownership to the buyer but there are also conditions where you must either file; a junked or inoperable vehicle form, or pay taxes as a property/luxury tax. It can not be left in limbo. Let's say the original owner (the "seller" on the title form) were to show up at the moron's house and try to take the MJ back. The moron calls the cops. The cops say "Who owns the vehicle?" The seller says "I do." The moron shows them the title form, dated 8 months ago, with the seller's signature that he sold the truck to the moron. Who do you think the cops are going to say owns the truck? They will run the VIN registration and call the last registered owner. In this case an owner from Indiana. Here to temporary owner can provide a bill of sale to prove ownership but in the case of trouble the registered owner on the title better provide proof of sale or the person who bought it and never registered can say it never happened. Most of you are still confusing registration with ownership. They are not the same thing. There is no "fine for not registering" a motor vehicle. There is a fine if you are caught driving an unregistered motor vehicle, but not for just buying a vehicle and letting it rest. I have ten or twelve Jeeps here at the moment (please, someone, buy a couple of them!). You don't think I registered all of them the day I bought them, do you? I haven't broken any motor vehicle laws by not registering them. (If I drive one on the street, that's another story.) Your not driving any of them legally either are you? Stay focused on the issue. The issue is the TITLE. Registration is not the issue. The fact this other kid was driving an unregistered vehicle is not the issue, and it's better to not mention that. It will only cause confusion. I believe you are bickering merely over Semantics that deal with the period of time between registrations and getting caught in that time period. The issue is selling of the vehicle by a person who is not the registered owner in that state and retilting by someone from that same state on a title that is registered in another state. Had this been a same state deal I wouldn't have bothered to reply. Stay focused Pat - CALL THE DMV AND ASK ABOUT A FORM FOR SUPPLEMENTAL TRANSFER OF OWNERSHIP. That's what we're talking about here, and it should be as simple as dirt. The form you quoted in the other post: http://www.dot.wisconsin.gov/drivers/forms/dt1435.doc MV2488 is for Federal Vehicle code requirements pertaining to fraudulent statements and verification of mileage and it's transfer not Title transfer. MV1 must still be used for; lost, replacement, mutilation, defacing etc... This situation is not "simple as dirt" Yes I am from Pennsylvania as someone in another post suggested. We do have to get most all legal documents notorized. This is because of the same reasons people have been suggesting, so there's legal proof between ownership and sale and so that Registration and Ownership are one. :popcorn:

The MJ STILL BELONGS to the owner whose name appears on the Title at the last Registration. Two signatures on a title DO NOT make a legal owner out of the moron kid, all that says is that an agreement was struck but never followed through on. Let's say this truck would be left to set at a business or HOA policed area. They would take the vin numbers and run the system. Guess who they would call for the fine money? Hint: it won't be the moron kid. Get the PO and moron together; pay the fine for no registration and get the title in the morons name. Then you can get it in the shop's name when you get the title back, another registration. Here you can't give a gift vehicle to anyone who isn't directly related to yourself. The only other option is LOST Title but you will need the PO.

I had 2 problems with my 2.5 CPS; Long Cranking time and a No Start. The long crank was fixed by removing and cleaning the CPS. Grease,dirt oil had turned into sludge that was so thick I had to clean the bolts to find them. Sludge was also coating the sensor side of the CPS so I spun the flywheel little by little til it was clean too. The no start was due to an issue in the wire connection plug from the CPS to the main harness. My 2.5 usually turns over 6- 10 times before it fires up but from what I read this is normal by design. But as others have said the fuel filter will make it crank to start and the pressure must be 14 - 15 psi at the TBI port. A new fuel filter won't hurt and it's ez enuff 2 do. If pressure is still low at the TBI port you can adjust it higher at the regulator. If you can't the fuel pump may be going.

I had 2 problems with my 2.5 CPS; Long Cranking time and a No Start. The long crank was fixed by removing and cleaning the CPS. Grease,dirt oil had turned into sludge that was so thick I had to clean the bolts to find them. Sludge was also coating the sensor side of the CPS so I spun the flywheel little by little til it was clean too. The no start was due to an issue in the wire connection plug from the CPS to the main harness. My 2.5 usually turns over 6- 10 times before it fires up but from what I read this is normal by design.