brigarpeon

Bendix is one of the OEM parts divisions of Allied Signal

You could also have the PO apply for a lost Title. Our DVM also has a form for Title mistakes but again you will need to PO to appear in front of the notary for verification. Now; if the PO signed it on the seller line, your buddy signed it as the buyer and the transaction is under $500, you could probably take it to the notary to get processed. The title will come back in his name and then you can take the Title. A bill of Sale would help out greatly at the notary because of the two signatures the PO WILL NOT need to be present. The bad part of the deal is now there's some guy who doesn't own the jeep legally trying to sign the title as the seller. That could get your names' on the G.T.A. hotline Good Luck

Small time CON ARTIST'S. If they call back; tell em to practise whistling dixie with their butt wind. Find the chickie another MJ OR ....... uh wait for it....... xj

As Limeyjeeper stated the proper terminology is Grease Fitting. Fastenal carries them as do Harbor Freight. Tractor supply in the neighborhood? ZERK is the name of one of the guy who patented them but his patent calls them Lubrication Fittings. Alemite, Lincoln and General Signal make them also. What you refer to as flush mount are the type of grease fitting that only requires a hole to drive the fitting into, There is a tool to drive with and you actually hammer them in. The type you used in the CV shaft are threaded, in this case 1/8" NPT.

Even though it looks sealed it actually is not, those are sheilds that prevent metal shavings from entering. It is lubed by internal pressure of the lubricant. Know how the shift light indicator works from internal lubricant pressure? Lubrication of the bearings are about the same process, pressure pushes the lube through the bearing and centrifical force distributes it. Loose grease in the tranny can actually do harm by clogging up oil passages and preventing lubrication.

That's not a bad price. things to consider. Condition- use as is or rebuild Is it geared for me Is it Locked,will I lock it Redrill the axles at $80 or new axles $300 + Gearing, traction devices, bearings and labor can be $500 - 600 then add the redrill, if you go with axles then $800-900. You could probably find an XJ OR MJ 44, W/ 4.10'S at the JY for $250.00 or so.

Here ya go for the tests, failure in any part of the process is a replace. IDLE SPEED ACTUATOR (ISA) MOTOR 1) Adjust ISA motor plunger to establish initial position of plunger only if motor has been removed or replaced. Remove air filter elbow and start engine. Run engine until engine reaches normal operating temperature. Turn A/C off (if equipped). 2) Connect tachometer leads to diagnostic connector D1, attaching negative lead to terminal D1-3 and positive lead to terminal D1-1. Turn ignition off. ISA motor plunger should move to fully extended position. 3) When ISA motor plunger is fully extended, disconnect ISA motor wiring connector and start engine. Engine speed should be 3300-3700 RPM. If incorrect, turn hex head screw at end of plunger to provide engine speed of 3500 RPM. 4) Fully retract ISA motor by holding closed throttle (idle) switch plunger inward as throttle is opened. Closed throttle switch plunger should not touch throttle lever in closed position. If contact is made, check linkage and/or cable for binding or damage. Repair as necessary. 5) Connect ISA motor wiring harness connector and turn ignition off for 10 seconds. ISA motor should move to fully extended position. Start engine. Engine speed should be 3500 RPM for short period of time and then decrease to normal idle speed. 6) Turn ignition off. Disconnect tachometer. After final adjustment of ISA motor, use thread penetrating sealant (Loctite 290) on adjustment screw to prevent movement and maintain adjustment. NOTE: If adjustment screw must be moved after thread sealant hardens, loosen threads by heating screw with flameless heat such as soldering gun. DO NOT use flame or torch type of heat as damage to ISA motor will result. FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR WARNING: Always relieve residual fuel pressure in fuel delivery system before opening system. To prevent chance of personal injury, cover fittings with shop towel while disconnecting fittings. 1) Replacement fuel pressure regulator must be adjusted to establish correct pressure. Remove air filter elbow and hose. Connect tachometer leads to diagnostic connector D1, attaching negative lead to terminal D1-3 and positive lead to terminal D1-1. Remove screw plug and install fuel pressure test fitting. NOTE: Fuel pressure test fitting is not included with throttle body. Fitting (8983 501 572) must be obtained separately. 2) Connect fuel pressure gauge to test fitting. Start engine and increase speed to approximately 2000 RPM. Turn Torx head screw at bottom of regulator to set correct pressure. Turning screw inward increases pressure and turning screw outward decreases pressure. 3) All models require fuel pressure of 14.5 psi Install lead sealing ball to cover regulator adjustment screw after adjusting fuel pressure. Turn ignition off. Remove measuring equipment and test fitting. Install original plug screw and air filter assembly. Funny but when my filter clogged it stalled outta the gas, when the fuel pump went it stuttered under load or pulling out. When the IAC/ISA motor went out the throttle wouldn't respond to being pushed normally but you could get it moving by revving the crap out of it. Lotsa info here http://jeepgarage.free.fr/OWN/fuel%20injection%20system%20tbi.pdf

For the Rear; Pretty much the same as an XJ 44 install. The Scout axle is more narrow by 3", 59" for the Scout and 61" for the XJ. You'll need to weld on new perches, set up for the shock mounts and check your driveshaft for the slip joint clearance. If you are lifted 3" or more no driveshaft mods required, if not then you will probably need to shorten the driveshaft around an inch. The big difference is the wheel pattern, the Scout is 5 x 5.5, the MJ/XJ is 5 X 4.5. You can either; drill a new 5 x 4.5 pattern in the old axle flange or install new axles with the correct pattern. You can get the width of the track back in spec by using wheels with the correct back spacing. There is a way to get a front 44 without all the fab work but since I'm not totally sure exactly how it's done I'll save that speech for later.

Nope. That would be an AX4. The AX5 is a 5 speed

Buddy of mine has an old hobart 110 with the lil squirt bottle. It has been an excellent little machine for it's intended use, gauge material and light plate. Everybody borrows it all the time for the last 10 years and it's had a problem or 2 but nothing major. I have an older 220 Hobart Handler and it's been a good one too. Miller and Hobart have always at least worked in the same fashion and produced the same results so get your best deal. Now if ya wanna call a "nag a nag" try a Century 110, Wow, you could get em at Sam's Club for $79.99, 19.99 for the gas adapter. I beat that thing clean to death with an 18 lb sledge. :headpop:

Did you check Fuel pump pressure and/or replace the fuel filter? My Comanche had a severely clogged filter that did the same thing, stalled off load. Later the fuel pump when bad, we deduced from trying to push through the clogged filter. Less than 15 psi on the pump at the maximum adjustment of the regulator could be the problem. The only other thing that comes to mind would be a possible vaccum leak.

It'll work like a charm. I used to use it to clean steam boiler elements of hard water chemical build up. The heater cores were copper, around a ten to fifteen minute submersion bath in Muratic acid would eat away most of the build up. Had to follow up on the tuffer spots with a brass brush in the Muratic bath. All it did to the copper was shine it up. Rubber gloves, goggles and a respirator are required. Since Muratic acid is 100% water soluable all you need is a 10 minute flush and your done. Warm water works best but cold will get it done just use more.

Hey there was a pretty nice one on e-bay the other week over your way. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-COM ... 0216815310 4WD is a bolt on conversion

I would say it is working but performing poorly at the low end of it's capability. This is most likely due to an extended period of operation, it's getting old. Something like how a spark plug can cause your engine performance and mileage to go down as it becomes older and more worn. You can clean it and regap it and it will work better but you don't regain full mileage and performance until you put in new. Since the startup voltage is normal, the computer side is OK but, the map sensor (manifold) sends the signal so it may be headed South.

What will you use for a fuel gauge then?

SO we begin Young Padawan To test, using a voltmeter with the ignition on/engine off, voltage at terminal B should be 4 - 5 volts. The voltage should drop to 1.5 - 2.1 volts with a HOT, neutral idle engine. Supply voltage can be checked at terminal C with the ignition on. Voltage there should be 5 volts + or - 0.5 volts (Terminal A is the ground wire). What does it do? Compares ambient barometric pressure during start-up (cranking) to engine load while engine is running. The ECU computes that information and adjusts the air-fuel mixture accordingly.

That may well have been the Jeep Base Line Gas Miser package. Mine is 4x4 has different LCA's not sure about UCA's. I put a motor in this truck but used all the ancillary items from the original 2.5 so it should still be detuned. I also put the 5 speed in it but merely replaced the AX5 w/ an AX5. The original owner, possibly the dealership, had Good ol Rusty Jones undercoat it, probably because it didn't have any. I had to put a tailgate and back bumper on it. Whether they were on it when it came from the factory IDUNNO. Knowing the list of possible options and depending on how they felt like building it at the factory that day, I would dare to say it is within the realm of possibilities to have a Gas Miser sold in a semi or fully opted out configuration. Factories usually only build at the base by order only, they want to sell all they can sell.

Yes this is all true but there are many factors that create the DW scenario to various degree. Shocks serve as a dampner to the vibration, the stiffer the shock ratio on the compression and rebound cycle the more dampening they provide to elminate DW. Stock OEM shocks usually have a 50/50 to 60/40 compresion rebound ratio. This would have a minimal dampening control but on new/excellent/good suspension and steering componentry would well suffice. Drag racers will use a 90/10 ratio for weight tranfer to the back wheels allowing the front to lift but with the heavy compresion it can absorb the energy when the front wheels drop back down. Offroad shocks may be valved for a 30/70 ratio so the springs and coils can do their job at compression and reserve the rebound as the stronger of the two to control potholes and over log/rock transitions. With that, lets look at a worn out suspension. The bushing liner tubes could be elogated, the rubber has lost it elasticity and therefore durometer. These now can no longer support the load they were designed for so now operate outside their design envelope. Steering balljoints, such as the one that originated this post, and tie rods create some slop by being worn to the outside of their tolerances. The bracketry that ties all this to the frame could be cracked or fatiqued allowing flex in the base parts. The combination of any or all of the above generate forces or disambiguations, that under the right condition become harmonic. Harmonics are basically waves that have a frequency that comes from a signal. The signal here being the bump in the road that begins the translation. So that's the shpeel. To make it simple; imagine a tuning fork, striking it on a hard surface is the signal, the blurred movement of the fork arms are the wave, the audible tune is frequency, whether you strike it on a hard or soft surface the disambiguation. So the moral of the story; it's not DW... your driving a tuning fork.

Pacesetter has a couple styles; 87 up and 91 up for around $168.00 in basic black, Armour coat adds 100

Probably Control Arm Bushings, more often lower but can be both upper and lower if alot of miles on the clock. Make sure it's not an optical thing. If the axle is moving making you think it's the body it would be more Track Bar related.

No, I did too, it helped. However, my DW dissapeared completely after I changed wheels. I had two that were bent. Oh, and balancing and allighning them helped too. Me too. Put on new Gabriel off roads and DW wasn't as violent. Had a flat and found the wheel was bent so I changed it out, OEM 15X6J. Now DW is less frequent and can be controlled somewhat by feeling the first implication of a wobble in the steering. Getting off the gas pedal and hitting the brakes slowly at first and then with force. I've also found that IT CAN be stopped/controlled once in full DW by hard to lock up force braking then punch the gas to the floor and then slow braking again. This doesn't work everytime but it has about 75% of the time for me. Track bar mount holes are elongated so that should fix mine.

I have an 86 X W/ 2.5, 5 Speed and 3.31 gears. It's a gas miser package. Now it won't run 15's in the quarter but it has enuff snot to travel and maintain highway speeds. It won't climb mountains on the highway in 5th but it will climb rolling hills. 5th gear is reserved for long somewhat level strecthes and 4th is the most used top gear. I have 215/75/15 All Season tires and get 25 mpg. My only gripe is "WHAT A DOG OFFROAD" I run out of horsepower before obstacle. I would advise to buy it.

The Borla header hits down on the crossmember area of a Cherokee and needs bent at the tubes some to mount up to the exhaust. There's a mis-alignment in their bend programs for the down tubes that I don't know if they've corrected. I plucked a Banks Header from E bay for a 2.5L Wrangler but it's not here yet let alone installed.

Yeah it worked and I can work from your example. Here's what I meant http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=2501&itemType=PRODUCT

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=2501&itemType=PRODUCT