Comanchemodder

I pulled the 2.5L 4cyl with the grill panel in place. I did remove the radiator. I did not pull the engine with the tranny however. The tranny stayed in the truck. Last time I do that btw.

That's a sweet looking MJ, can you post a bigger picture?

If you are one of those guys who demands the right tool for the job: A 10mm "plug socket" http://www.ebay.com/itm/TWO-PIECE-8MM-10MM-SQUARE-DRAIN-PLUG-SOCKET-SET-2049-3-8-DRIVE-/190827325135?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item2c6e31e6cf&vxp=mtr

Hi and welcome to CC. Take a look at the attached thread. Is this similar? http://comancheclub.com/topic/41247-both-turn-signals-on-dash/

Its upside-down. Its a passenger side drop. You can tell it is upside down by the orientation of the knuckle. Also, it appears it does not have lock-outs.

You are right. Only Ford has High pinion. Dodge in 1978 had pass side drop.

Sounds like you may want a Dana60 front? Som of those post apocalyptic outlanders can get a bit harry. I will say that $350 for the set would be an easy flip down here in Houston due to demand. I bet I could get more than $350 just for the HP front and would buy them and re sell them if i didnt use them. Not sure about your area.

This is great news. I will try to respect your expertise and involvement. I know there is discussion going on about treatment, forum rules etc. Bottom line: Cruiser54 provides value to the forum. If cruiser54 asked to be respected in his posts, I will do best to oblige, since without him on these forums, the expertise level drops. ComancheClub is a great place due to the high expertise level of many of the core members. Thanks for your help.

I had the same issue. Both dash arrows light up when headlights are on. I changed the sockets and problem solved. Signals and dash lights work exactly as should.

I think the jury is still out. I have never gotten a rusty bolt loose without swearing. So from my world, it does help? To Bornindesert, you are lucky to have such a great partner. I bet it makes working on the truck that much more fun.

Congrats! First, you will need to provide some detail on the year/engine/transmission. Not that I am an expert, but that's what the experts will ask. Assuming it a RENIX systems, Cruiser's how-to is some great reading to understand the system and extremely valuable for diagnosing problems: http://comancheclub.com/topic/41178-later-guys/

I love when they state "Ran fine when it was parked" . My uncle drove his old studebaker behind my grandma's barn. Last time I looked, there was a tree growing through it. That being said, I bought a carburetor from a guy who squirted starting fluid into a blazer (with trees growing through it) behind a shed and proceeded to drive it with four flat tires up to the house to unbolt the carb and sell it. Good luck with the MJ!

Great looking truck! Welcome to CC and look forward to your build.

From "Ford Differentials", 2013, (CarTech series) by Joseph Palazzolo, Page 115, Break-n procedure: (I will type this the best I can since i don't have the scanner at the moment) "Keep in mind that the higher offset of the 9-inch axle makes it prone to more heat generation than the 8.8 axle" "The first 100 miles is the most critical. Use the axle at street speeds of 30-45 mph and stay below 60 mph for the fist trip, which is usually less than 15 miles. Then allow the axle to cool for 30 minutes. Repeat this process for the first 100 miles on the new gears. Never subject the axle to full throttle or aggressive throttle accelerations in the first 500 miles because this exposes the components to excessive heat and can cause premature failure. Also never go to the race track with the first 500 miles because the axle is not prepared to withstand extreme loads." "Change the axle oil after the first 500 miles. This removes any metal debris that was generated during the break-in and if the oil was partially overheated, it is replaced."

About a year ago when refreshing my 2.5L I debated replacing that MAT, but at the time my MAT "seemed" okay with resistance in the 1000 ohm range at operating temp. Not knowing much about MAT, I just figured they were pretty much created equal and at the time found a company which seemed to make an equivalent. They state 100k Ohm @ -40F and 50 Ohm at 300 F, which kind of matches Hornbrod's table for RENIX. Today, I sent them an e-mail requesting a couple more data points in the operating range. I will re-post if they seem favorable. At first glance, the sensor seems a closer match than the HO unit. $30 minimum order is kind of expensive to "try" however. Also, please confirm the 3/8" NPT thread is correct. http://www.injector.com/cart/pc/Air-Charge-Temperature-Sensor-Part-No-1814-12p65.htm

I believe that is the manifold air temperature sensor (MAT). In the attached link it describes this sensor about half way down the page. http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Tuning-and-Troubleshooting-the-2.5L-Jeep-TBI-Four.html From the link: The manifold air temperature (MAT) sensor threads into the intake manifold. This signal indicates the air/fuel temperature in the intake manifold. The resistance should read less than 1000 ohms with the engine warmed to normal operating temperature. Check resistance between the two MAT sensor plug contacts. Though not as accurate as a mass-air flow sensor, the MAT signal proves valuable in helping the ECU set proper fuel flow and spark timing under various engine and atmospheric conditions.

To help compare your milage to others, check out fuelly site. This site has drivers log their economy by vehicle. Granted, ther are only 9 comanches, it would appear the average for the I6 is around 15-16 mpg. http://www.fuelly.com/car/jeep/comanche/gas%20l6

Refreshed the under dash ground per cruisers DIY. Poof! My right side dash lights work!

About a year ago I was at the JY and spotted a D60 front on a dodge power ram. Without using my head, I started into it and managed to cut it out. I somehow maneuvered it onto one of those pick-n-pull dollies, but it flattened the tires. The JY came and grabbed it with a huge fork truck and plopped it into the bed of my MJ. That sucker sagged under the strain and by the time I got home, wondered what the h*ll I was thinking. I immediately listed it on Craigslist and noted it would only be sold to someone with a hoist and ideally, i would deliver since there was no way to get it out of my truck without serious hassle. Luckily it sold fast and was happy to drive an hour to deliver it to a guy with a chain hoist to ease the suffering of my sagging MJ. I recently acquired a D44 front which can be easily dragged around the garage while keeping a spring in my step.

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I appreciate when members like yourself even though have little to gain in terms of your own Jeep, offer your knowledge to us noobs. This site has helped me turn my oil-drippin, gas drinking, brake light-less '87 into a smooth running daily driver. I have long ways to go, but now I am getting into the fun part; no longer worried about getting from point A to B. Thanks again to all the members who feed the noobs. We can be a pain, but I hope you gain satisfaction in knowing more Comanches remain on the road as a result.

It may be worthwhile to look into 3D printing. You will need a CAD model. The 3D printer at work does not have clear nor red, or I'd try it. I know clear (or red) is available. Work made some clear electronic enclosures but spent $1000+. I'm not sure if someone shopped around, if prices have dropped as this technology expands.

Thank you for posting all the "in-process" stuff like heater core, door jam, fuel tank, etc. These may not be glamorous, but they help this MJ owner learn what it takes to get it done. Nice job.

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You going to flip the Dana or installing a passenger side drop axle?