Comanchemodder

If you are interested in a fast, easy, but very ugly solution, you could wire the hose to the radiator. Take some small wire and tightly loop it around the hose clamp nut (or through it) and then to somewhere on the radiator (careful not to puncture anything)or some near by truck flange/hole. Keep it tight. As the engine heats and pressure builds, the wire will prevent the hose from sliding back and off. Just don't lift the hood around any of your jeep friends.

DELETED

About two months ago, I replaced my grounds with high-quality 4 AWG copper: http://www.kelleyswip.com/electric.html. This includes battery to dipstick and head to firewall cables. I will recheck the ohm to be sure.

The coolant temp sensor (CTS) reads "open circuit" ; should be less than 1000 ohms. The manifold air temp (MAT) reads "open circuit" ; should be less than 1000 ohms. That seems really strange to the point I wasn't sure if I was doing it right: 1) I disconnected the sensors and probed across the pins at the connector 2) I confirmed the ohm meter was working properly by touching probes together ( 0.00 ohm). ->same result "open circuit". O2 sensor was replaced last year. I have never tested the CTS before. No idea if they worked previously or not. Engine worked ok for the longest time; but these symptoms got really bad today all of a sudden. So bad I will need to drive my wife's truck to work tomorrow...

Temp test: air temp 60 deg (no deep freeze here) I placed a thermocouple into the radiator hose where it enters the radiator (down stream from the thermostat). 60 deg (start up): idles good, using finger, actuate throttle cable about 3/16 inch to kick up the RPMs to 2000? 135 deg: I noticed the symptoms returned. Really chunky running. wants to stall. if i let it idle, it would have died. rev it a few times and it was okay. 160 deg. seemed to smooth out 190 deg. noticed some chunkiness again. 200 deg. shut it off This was done in the driveway, parked. Note, my Thermostat is a premium Gates 195 deg. I replaced last weekend or so.

Truck: 1987 2.5L 2WD Manual (AX-4) Symptoms: When driving in 3 & 4th gear, the engine starts to "stall", looses power. Push in the clutch and rev it a few times, and accelerate seems to cure it 50% of the time. but when cruising again, starts to stall. Seems ok under hard acceleration. But then there are times it ran ok. On the way home tonight kept rev'ing at stop lights since I didn't want it to die and not start. At home seemed to idle fine. Checked: 1) All four spark plugs look similar and of a light brown. They are "E3" plugs. 2) Checked TPS per Cruisers guide. Results: 1. Ground test: 0.9 ohms, stable on the "B"terminal. 2. A-B (reference) with key on: .33 volts 3. C-B (Output) with Key on: 5.07 volts. This seems wrong me since Cruiser's guide indicates my measurements are "opposite". I checked it twice: once and then again when I couldn't believe the numbers. I don't want to start adjusting until I figure out what's up with those TPS voltages. Also, anything else I should check first?

How in hell did he manage that i wonder. :???: I remember it being really cold...the crack opened up and open water was refreezing into jagged, sharp ridges. If he made a run for it most likely that ice punctured the tires? We took it easy at first but since it was dark and didn't know how deep the water was, floored it. Made it through. Maybe our line was better chosen? I remember bouncing in the back like on a bucking bronco. We all breathed a sigh of relief that's for sure.

There a bunch in the DIY forum. Here are a couple after about 30 seconds of browsing: http://comancheclub.com/topic/10694-97-conversion-on-a-86-mj-new-questions/ http://comancheclub.com/topic/9913-97-cherokee-front-end-swap-for-an-mj-comanche/ http://comancheclub.com/topic/32740-alexias-1987-to-1997-comanche/

that brought back memories from back in '96 when a buddy of mine were out ice fishing and he did the ice break-through thing but on a lake in his Cherokee. We didn't go through, rather it was a big pressure crack on Lake Mille lacs that opened up in the night. An old Dodge PU was on the other side with four flats. The Cherokee made it without issue.

I found full size rondo forum had the following wms to wms numbers. I have a 82 Bronco 9 inch in my garage which is about 65 inches. It has pretty tall gears though, not 4.11. None of the 80s broncos had low gears due to fuel econ reasons. If that 9 inch is 61", most likely it is from a car (mustang) and will be 28 spline. List: copied from therangerstation.com 65-66 Mustang 57.25 inches 67-70 Mustang 59.25 inches 71-73 Mustang 61.25 inches 77-81 Versailles 58.50 inches 67-73 Mustang, Torino, Ranchero, Fairlane 9" 59.25 inches to 61.25 inches 57-59 Ranchero and station wagon rears, 57.25 inches 66-77 Bronco 9", 58 inches 77-81 Granada/Versailles, 58 inches 67-71 Comet, Cougar, Mustang, Fairlane, 59.25 inches 71-73 Mustang, 61.25 inches 64 Falcon 58 inches 67 Cougar 60 inches 67 Fairlane 63.50 inches (coil springs) 72 Ford Van 3/4 ton 68 inches 73-86 65.25 inches 57-59 Ranchero and station wagon 57.25 iches (narrowest 9" housing) 66-77 Bronco 58 inches but has 5-on-5 1/2 inch diameter bolt circle 67-73 Torinos, Rancheros, Fairlanes 59.25 inches or 61.25 inches 67-71 Comets, Cougars, Fairlanes 59.25 inches

Looking though the appendix of "Ford Differntials: how to rebuilt the 8.8 and 9 inch"' there weren't many 4.11 from the factory, the vast majority of codes are in the 3's. Also the 31 spline does not show up until the mid 70's from trucks. Unless it is the rare Torino 9 inch.

Make sure you "get links" on the picture: Then click the "IMG Codes" link and simply paste it in your message on CC. The field will turn yellow and read "link copied":

As you know, the 9inch had the most aftermarket support and pretty much anything is possible with a price. Is this from a car? What year? The late 70's moved to a "big bearing" and is more desireable for trucks imo. Also spline count went up to 31 I believe. I'm at the mall but have a 9 inch book at home if you have specific questions. one more thing, if it is a nodular housing, then buy it.

Is there any source for that cam? Where did you get it?

Just to add one more thing to this thread... This summer I installed a 165 degree thermostat in my 2.5L. I figured its hot out and cooler is better right? Well the engine ever since would hesitate when cruising. I could accelerate out of it, but when cruising 45-55 mph, it would feel sluggish. I read on this forum as well as others, the RENIX is tuned to a 195 degree thermostat. This past weekend I swapped in a 195. The engine runs like a dream!

Thanks Jeep Driver. I may need to get me a manifold like yours pictured. The outlet on my manifold is 90 counter clock-wise compared to yours. With your manifold, you don't need a 90 degree bend. But I will try a 90 degree molded hose first. Thanks!

Some more items: 1) Higher fuel pressure required, ie. new fuel pump. 2) MPI flywheel is different from Renix 3) Ditributor is different 4) as stated above, ECU change out required (possibly all the sensors too?) I am planning on this conversion myself but am waiting to get everything in order before moving forward. Some great info from my post at 4WDmechanix: http://forums.4wdmechanix.com/topic/227-25l-tbi-jeep-will-an-mpi-conversion-require-a-new-flywheel/

Thanks Jim!! Mine will look like pic # 3 since I have a 94 YJ motor which has the alternator on the bottom and the AC bracket on top. What are your thoughts about the Radiator hose? Would one of those generic "flex hoses" work, or should i get the molded. I don't like how it rides on the compressor, but if it not an issue, who am I to argue?

From these volt measurements at the battery, I would conclude the Alternator is good. These volts are exactly as expected. I assume the voltmeter used to measure the battery is accurate of course. I do not have a in-dash voltmeter on my truck, but have your tried to measure the voltage at the in-dash meter leads using your hand-held meter? This would verify if the in-dash unit is accurate or not.

Hi guys, Is there a "molded" heater hose part for getting from the thermostat housing to the intake manifold? The non-molded heater hose is not the most "ideal fit", even with zip ties . Abrasion has created a pin-hole and it needs to be replaced. A nice molded hose would let me ditch the zipties (i hope). Engine: 2.5L 1987 2WD, manual trans. How it looks now:

Hi guys, Happy new year! I know many of you are freezing, but down in Houston, this is the ideal time to get A/C installed for the ensuing brutality which is called summer. In need to picture of a 2.5L engine, with A/C. If you have one, please post. I need to verify the location, radiator hoses, A/C hose, etc. A picture will get me on my way. Thanks!

On my steering, I swapped out the pressure hose due to a hole. Problem fixed, or so I thought. It turns out that little screw-in sensor on the pressure hose was now leaking. Added some Teflon tape and it was all good. Check that sensor joint.

Its here on CC!! http://comancheclub.com/topic/40407-cummins-b33-powered-mj-build/

I guess if Santa can make it down all the kid's chimney, I can shimmy under one truck: The hex heads on my starter are 9/16"

I checked out the Torx head bolt from my 2.5L in my garage. You should be able to get a 3/8" 12 point socket on it if you don't have a Torx; but you run the risk of rounding them. My current 2.5l starter has hex-head bolts on it. You may get lucky and have the hex.