Comanchemodder

Update: The truck was running sluggish for a few months and has gotten worse. Runs OK when cold but once warmed up idling was intermittent and when accelerating, would give out. If I feathered (pumped) the gas peddle while driving, it would drive ok for a few hundred yards, then I would need to pump the gas again. At a loss, I decided to change the O2 sensor. Very preliminary results are promising but I am reluctant to declare victory. The new O2 sensor is a Bosch 12008. The surprising thing was the condition of the old sensor. I don't know what I should expect, but white seems odd... Does the old sensor look normal or should it be brown?

Is that the port shown below? (Sorry, pick was thanklessly stolen from a fellow comanche owner). I was lead to believe that is M12. But if it is 3/8 NPT, I'm golden!!

I am in the same boat, but I think I am further down the creek... 1) Dealer installed A/C vs factory AC: The heater box which contains the evaporator is smaller on the dealer installed trucks. I swapped my heater box out with a factory AC cherokee. 2) My dealer installed A/C had a bird's nest vacuum logic circuit under the dash on the passenger side. Best I could tell is the logic circuit is used to turn the blower fan on when the AC goes on and/or the defrost. But I didtn't try to figure it out. I by passed it and currently have my blower fan working correctly. 3) Next step for me is to add in an A/C on-switch in the dash. Download and learn the electrical manual. It is all in there. I just need to get some time to get it done.

Greeting Comanche owners, I am looking to install an electric fan into my 4CYL, 4-speed. I will be purchasing a new fan and fan controller. I am focused on a SPAL 185FH , which includes a 3/8" NPT screw-in style sensor. The engine is a 1994 2.5L but running RENIX. Is there an available port on the engine to install this 3/8" NPT? Is there a controller anyone knows of which is a bolt-in? I guess alternatively I could look for one of those external push-in thermal probe controllers. Thanks for the help.

I am sure the helmet is stronger than the AMC 20 cover.

I cleaned the C101. I used almost a full can of electrical cleaner, a small brass and nylon brush. The connections are shiny. I noted one "was not like the others" and seemed to be more recessed than the others (red box). If that one is a fuel injection connection, I will need to get a small tool to tweak it per Cruisers Tips. I will see how it runs and report back.

Well, the issue is still there. Notables: 1) Runs fantastic when it is cool 40-60 degrees outside. If the weather is warm, runs really intermittent with hesitation. 2) Once the engine warms up the hesitation comes back. Push in the clutch, rev it, and its okay for a few seconds. 3) Sometime when cruising at 40 mph runs like a dream. but when in traffic, hesitates/revs all over the place. 4) If i had to do any freeway driving, it would not be drive able. But my commute is jsut city streets, max speed 45mph so not a show stopper. Seems like a fuel issue but I'm not sure what to try next. * I checked the fuel pressure and it was 15 PSI at the throttle body. Only checked it for about 30 seconds but it was solid with no fluctuation. * MAT/IAT sensor was checked when the engine was hot and read about 480 ohms. seems okay. Any ideas?

We have cooler weather here in Houston. I took an hour road trip and the tuck ran like new. On the way back, I got stuck in traffic; Stop-n-go in a construction zone. The truck started to heat up and the chunky throttle returned. Once I got past the construction and up to speed, the truck settled down and ran great. I suspect the throttle issue is a result of overheating. Come to think of it, the chunky throttle issue was almost constant during the hot weather and stop-light traffic. I do not have a fan shroud. It is just the mechanical fan. I always knew cooling was not optimal. I am thinking I need to address the cooling issue next and am considering an electric fan (with shroud).

I replaced the TPS. On a test drive, seems to be running much better. I need to wait until i am stuck in afternoon traffic to be sure. I used Cruiser's Renix tips to swap the TPS. However, there is something strange with mine. My reference voltage 5.07V is between B-C (as marked on the plug). the output voltage was set to 17% (.86V) between A-B. I checked three times about the plug labels. but it does seem to be running better. I used Duralast P/N TPS128.

Greetings, Over the past couple of days, my idle and low speed is been getting really chunky. Almost undriveable. Only if I push in the clutch and rev will it pull out. But even at medium throttle, there will be periods of "dead" throttle for a few seconds. Symptoms: 1) a spark plug had very trace amounts of white; almost like running lean. 2) I changed out the distributor cap and rotor. The rotor had some evidence of wear on the leading edge. If this is of interest, I will post a pic. 3) I cleaned the TBI with choke cleaner. 4) There seems to be a high frequency "flapper valve" clicking coming from the throttle body. It does not seem normal. Sounds like tractor. 5) when looking into the throttle body at idle, there appears to be liquid gas wetting the butterfly valve. Seems kind of rich, I guess I never noticed that before. Not sure if that is normal. Any ideas?

Sorry, Let me clarify. Anyone know the thread size of the port below:

Anyone know the thread size for that port?

Boya!! From the Electrical Manual, it is the C117. for A/C!!

Hi guys. I am struggling trying to ID the connector below. I looked at Cruiser list and it seems like C117. But I can't find it on the electrical wire manual. Can someone confirm the connector number and what it is for? Thanks. 1987 2.5L 2WD, Manual trans. Driver side by washer bottle: Close up:

So did you install an external regulator or do you have the computer from that year with your drivetrain swap? When I swapped a later 2.5 into my RENIX, I used the later alternator and therefore needed an external regulator. Without the regulator, the alternator never charged.

OK, I'm going to suck it up and and build this out. Ive got a bunch of schematics and developed a circuit. My next question: Is the pic below the pin-out below for the ECU plug or the C101? If its the ECU, anyone have the pin-out of the C101? I need to locate the 22, 30, & 34 wires from the ECU. These, per my pile of schematics are the A/C controls. I want to trace them to their termination so I can connect my A/C wiring.

Agree. You need to strip the oxide layer. Aircraft spruce sells all the toxic chems needed for a proper DIY project: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/me/metalprep.html

Greeting fellow Comanche owners. I am in the home stretch on installing a new A/C system. I am now working on the wiring after all the new mechanicals are in place. Truck: 87 4 cyl 2wd. AC: originally dealer installed. Problem #1: Where does the low pressure switch connect? The PO clipped one of the leads (pic below). It is a brown/blk wire which joins an all black wire through a fusable link? The PO clipped it at the black wire. I have no idea where this should connect. The other wire (all black) from the low pressure switch, I have connected to the thermostat which monitors if the evaporator is icing up. Not sure if that is correct. I have the wiring diagram from the manual, but it that is for factory AC. I am having trouble figuring out the dealer ac wiring. Thanks. Clipped wire from low pressure connector: Where does this connect?? Low pressure switch black wire connected to thermostat in evaporator core: Engine bay with new AC system. Low pressure switch black wire enters the firewall near the expansion valve (lower left):

Not knowing any better, I just used the 1994 YJ 2.5 PS pump/bracket and bolted it to my RENIX intake. Not until you posted the question, did I wonder if they are different. For me, they look/function the same. That being said, I remember the offset was slightly different (due to oil slinger?).

Most likely it will be easer to change the heater box from an XJ with factory air. Thats what I did. Now any XJ evaporator core fits like a glove. The factory air heater box is bigger than a non-ac heater box (it was in my 87 comanche anywhy) Standard evaporator core compared to dealer installed AC and Heaterbox. As you know its too big: XJ Heater box with factory AC has buldge to fit the bigger core:

I complement you on your use of socket head cap screws. Make is look really clean.

Does anyone have a part number for that low/high pressure switch? Note, my dryer is the "spray paint can" style that fits behind the grill. Embarrassingly, I threw away the switch with my old dryer.

Typical DMV. Let me guess, she still didnt believe you and required you to complete the forms for a corrected title?

Humm... are you going heavy duty and changing out plastic parts? I found on my 87 no rivet gun is required. Its all screws and bolts. The only rivets I saw was holding the plastic to the sheet metal frame; which is removed as a single unit.

Who? 85% of JK / JKU sales are to buyers who could care less about performance, i.e. off-road, because it doesn't happen with them. It's an image thing they buy. And the more creature comforts available, the more they will sell. This equals more overall corporate profit. With profit, maybe then all the mouth-watering Jeep concepts we see and want every year might become a reality because they can risk that gamble economically and take a chance and actually produce it. But performance Jeep buyers are the minority, and always will be. I disagree with some of this. The more they sell, the more profit; this is true. However, the more they profit on mall crawlers, the more mall crawlers they will make. There is no incentive to gamble on developing off road performance. I agree there are some great Jeep concept vehicles, but board room bureaucrats will only approve the most profitable models: mall crawlers.