TNT

black out :D

Never know? One of this sites members might be a trucker with a pole barn. He could snatch them up and have a place to put then It would make a sweet deal and they could make $$$ by selling them in sets of 5. for $150.00. People would buy them. I know I would. $15000.00 would make a nice Jeep and tool fund. :chillin: Pat do you think have some spare room in the barn? :D Your Dad should jump on this and resell them. There is good money to be made. :brows:

$1.50 tops

Nice find. All pictures are saved. :D Thanks :cheers:

If anyone out near Phoenix need 500 (yes I said 500) 37x12.50x16.5 Goodyear MT's they are up on e-bay with no reserve and no bids. Auction ends in 12 hours. All are supposed to have 50%-70% tread. Right now you could bid a $1.00 and get 5 tires for every penny spent... :brows: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140211612398&ssPageName=MERC_VI_RCRX_Pr3_PcY_BID_Stores_IT&refitem=140211060648&itemcount=3&refwidgetloc=active_view_item&usedrule1=CrossSell_LogicX&refwidgettype=cross_promot_widget&_trksid=p284.m184&_trkparms=algo%3DCRX%26its%3DS%252BI%252BSS%26itu%3DISS%252BUCI%252BSI%26otn%3D3

Challenger wins by a land slide in my book. Of course it would have to be the SRT-8 version. :bowdown: :cheers:

It's close but not right.

I weld in my garage with the door open all the time. If it's a calm day it works great outside. If you are welding inside your rig iy works great too. I'm lazy and don't like cleaning welds. If you are fixing floors flux core would drive me nuts and take alot longer to do.

You Are a Real Jeeper if... You didn't even read the list because you already knew the answer. :D :cheers:

Great fish. :eek: I'm glad to see they released it. :D It's 100 years old or so and deserves to live as long as possible.

The Kicker/SRT Livin' Loud Audio System is the stereo upgrade on a SRT-4 Neon. The stock stereo was better. You don't have this option. The 5 Additional Gallons of Gas is added to the 3 gallons it comes with, in other words it comes new with 8 gallons of gas...

And before the shock absorber piston bottoms out and the shock self-destructs. It also cushions the impact as the suspension bottoms out. Air bumpstops are the way to go, if you want to go all out. :brows:

Thats why I use stainless hardware on mine.

No need to do this on the HO engine. The bolt will clear. :brows: IMO the best engine mounts are the MORE Bombproof ones hands down.

I'll ask at work about what psi the check valves blowoff at and what psi the switches work at. I think they might work good for you. They are all air brake parts for semi brakes. I might have an air tank from work that has all the bungs in it, youll just need to plug a few. It's about 30" long and 10" in diameter.

Poor connections cause resistance which cause voltage drop. Check the bulkhead connector at the firewall since they have been known to cause problems. You can even test connectors by performing a voltage drop test across the connector.

To get the lowest ride height, the most controlled travel with the longest shocks and biggest tires it sure is. :brows: You could bottom out 4" lift springs with 4" of bumpstops on a speedbump. There is more to having uptravel then that... :roll: Get real. In trail use with the same 3.5" lift springs I ran 11" travel shocks. It had 6" uptravel and 5" downtravel. I could fully compress the spring onto the bumpstops when flexing and the other spring was just starting to unseat. It made for a very flexable stable ride. It was great at speed too. Why get only one or the other when you can get both. I found that when you have enough droop to unseat the coil a couple of inches stability suffers. I still run XJ flares that are modified to look stock to people who don't know better. They don't looked hacked like TJ flares do. I also gain more room with XJ/MJ flares then TJ flares do. I just use stock flares that are reformed to mount higher and have a wider opening. I even run inner wheelwell liners. I'm basing my statment about what the spring requires so it doesn't get over compressed. This allows for an increase in uptravel. I cut my fenders to fit the tires using that amount of bumpstop. I want to use all of the available travel a spring has without overcompression... I make the body/fenders fit the spring and bumpstop combo I decide to use. I also make sure I can steer from lock to lock when flexed. You do the opposite and use the tires determine how much bumpstop you need. At least use the entire Quote... :mad: I have seen it too. I spent some time prepping like I stated so they would stay put. The best way to do it is to silicone the pucks together and then bolt the stack down. This way the pucks can't flex or slide on each other allowing the bolt to bend. I'm not saying you are wrong, but am showing others that there are different ways to get the job done and have a rig that can go slow or fast. Improved stability is nice too. 8) It's kinda like running KOH... The best set-up is the one that can crawl or haul @$$. I like to think outside the box... :chillin: :cheers:

I can hear your XJ screaming for lift, cut fenders and some meats. Better keep it away from me. This is what I do to front fenders. My MJ getting trial fit done. 6" of lift and 33" tires. There is 14" from the tire to the flare. Image Not Found This is what I do to rear XJ 4dr fenders, 2dr's get even more room. This is my 95 XJ I'm using as my MJ's parts donor. Pic is 5"of lift with 33" tires. Image Not Found

I ran 33" tires with 3.5" lift springs and 2.5" of bumpstop with 9.5" travel shocks in the front. The rear only needed 1.5" of bumpstop extention with 10" of travel. Cutting the fenders is the key. I cut the fenders and ran the 33" tires for 2 weeks without any lift. Normally the amount of bumpstop extention a spring requires is about half of it's amount of lift. Now that I have done more extreme fender work 35"-36" tires will fit with 3.5" of lift. You just have to cut like crazy. The rear winds up with more room then the front on a XJ or MJ. A simple but effective way to hold the hockey pucks in is with silicone. I bent a 3/8 bolt once removed it and siliconed them together and onto the cleaned factory bumpstop pad. They have held for 6 years.

Just make sure you get a bottle of CO2/argon from a local welders supply store and use it instead of fluxcore wire. The only time I use fluxcore is outside on a windy day. If you have 220V get the 187 it is well wort the price difference. Free shipping and the free welder cart is a good deal.

I'm very happy with my 185 amp 220 volt Hobart MIG welder. :D I bought it 6 years ago at TSC and it has worked great. I have used over 150 pounds of wire in it. :brows: Now I want an old AC/DC Lincoln welder for cast and a TIG for fun...

I told you "You can do it". :D It will much better then the electric deal you had planned. :cheers:

Maybe once you get you lift and 33's you won't be scared to play in real snow.... Thats a 2wd pile. :rotf: I made the XJ's rear bumper drag climbing straight up 20ft tall piles of snow today. :chillin: I won $20.00 from a tech who said I couldn't do it. I climbed all 3 sides just to show off, 2 were steep enough to drag the XJ's @$$ going up and coming back down. The steepest side stopped me dead when the hitch hit crawling back down. I just blipped the skinny pedal once, problem solved.... A couple of techs with lifted fullsize trucks tried but were denied. 8) Wait, all you would be doing is dragging @$$ even with the lift. :roll: You need to bob the bed it when you fix. :brows: That's why I'm bobbing mine. :D Now would be the time to climb the rock pile in your yard. Now that would be fun. :cheers: On a side note I'm getting pretty good at sidehilling big snow piles, I put it up on 2 wheels about 4 different times today... Just steer into the roll and hammer the skinny pedal. ;) It did play around on one near roll and go about 40 ft on 2 wheels before bringing it back down. It was kind of a wierd feeling the first couple of times I've tried this in the past. :eek: This time I had good traction and got the balancing point right.

So did you leave a spacer in up front? RE rear springs usually are more like 4"-4.5". If you don't have a SYE, get a YJ yoke so the slip yoke won't bind at full droop. It's also about 1/2" longer which is a plus also.

This picture kinda reminds me of how my rusty DD. It has ZJ upcountry springs a .75" spacer and 2 stock isolater in front and a 3" lift RE AAL with 33x10.50-15's on 15x7" wheels with 4" of backspacing. The fenders are cut and flares are cut and relocated some. The lift is 9 years old. It ran 31x10.50's for 70k and they just weren't good enough for this winter. I put the wheels and tires from my '95 XJ on this winter. Now it's great in the snow. The tires only rub in the back when its flexed out because there are no bumpstops. Image Not Found My MJ is hiding behind it.