1989 Eliminator

Okay ya'll I have decided to create a step-by-step topic on how to replace your harmonic balancer. But first, here is a little background of what the hatmonic balancer does and where it is located. The harmonic balancer is located on the front-bottom of the engine. The purpose of the harmonic balancer is to drive the belt which then turns everything else that uses thr belts rotation. The harmonic balancer is keyed and pressed onto the end of the crankshaft which sticks out about 2 inches from the front of the engine. Here is what a new harmonic balancer looks like: Here is what my old balancer with a bad seal/bushing looks like (you can see the bad rubber): Here are the tools and parts I used: Rented, harmonic balancer puller and installer tool kits. 14 mm 3/8 drive 13mm 3/8 drive 3/8 small and medium extension 3/8 swivel 8mm 1/4 drive 13mm 1/4 drive Screw driver 3/4 drive 3/4" drive Vice grips 1 1/2" adjustable 1" adjustable 13mm wrench To start off, I had to take off the accessory electric fan and loosen the belt. The fan has two small bolts up top and a electric connector by the airbox. Once the belt is off, I then stuck the screwdriver in between the spokes of the old balancer pulley and the engine so when I used my breaker bar and socket to break loose the 3/4" crankshaft bolt, the pulley did not turn. The bolt and retaining washer needs to be removed and kept for later use. Now it is time to pull the harmonic balancer off the crankshaft end. The pictures below show how the tool is put on the balancer even though I have already pulled it off. The gold spinner nut goes into the tapped hole of the crankshaft end, then the big screw goes into that, the three legged peice screws onto the big screw, and finally the three smaller screws, screw into the tapped holes that are on the harmonic balancer. Make sure you grab enough thread with those bolts. Now you simply have to turn the big screw clockwise to pull off the old harmonic balancer. Next is to press the new harmonic balancer on the end of the crankshaft. The installer kit has a three peice screw system. The silver screw gets screwed into the tapped hole of the crankshaft (mine was 1/2"). Next the bigger hollow screw fits over the silver one. Then there is a long skinny screw that goes inside the big hollow screw and screws into the silver one. Tighten the long screw into the silver one. Line up the new balancer as best as you can on the end of the crankshaft, remember it is keyed. Place the washer/bearing and press nut that comes with install kit. Simply turn the press nut until the balancer is fully pressed onto the crankshaft.

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I adjusted mine about half a turn (I think) to the left. So I made it so that more air flowed through increasing the idle.

I mean since you are at your last work arounds of trying to fix this issue... I say put the new TPS in, adjust it correctly as mentioned many times, and if the idle is smooth but still low, id try adjusting the idle air screw a little bit and see what that does. You are supposed to adjust that as a last resort type of thing but it seems that you are at the end of your troubleshooting.

Something is not holding pressure it seems like... the pressure regulator, fuel lines, and fuel pump are fuel system parts that hold/regulate pressure. So any of these components could be the culpurit if leaking.

Either way..... if it is orignal then you have a ~26 year old TPS sensor and if the PO changed it, he could have bought a crap brand. I hope this fixes it!

If you did not replace the TPS with an OEM quality brand and not a typical auto parts store brand then this could be definatly the issue. The TPS is very finnicky if you do not get a good quality brand. Also you have to make sure the TPS is set correctly but I think you already know how. If not look in cruiser 54's tips.

Incorrect.How so?You can also put some in the intake manifold through a vacuum hose but I do not think that is needed for his case.

Seafoam just goes in the gas.

I don't know man... I had the EXACT same issues that you are having. Everything I did seemed to fix it but there was a lot that I changed. Have you indexed your distributor yet? I replaced there components on mine because of this issue and just becuase its a 26 year old Jeep...: MAP IAC EGR TPS CPS Injectors (replaced with 746) ICM (ignition control module) Spark Plugs Spark Plug Wires Distributor Cap Ignition Coil Intake/exhaust manifold gasket new air filter New cam cover gasket (silicone) Replaced all relays O2 sensor BOSCH **All of these replacements did not happen all at once. Some were replaced several thousand miles apart.** Other things I did: Upgraded my engine and chassis grounds with new thick wire and new locations cleaned IAC and throttle body ultrasonic cleaned 746 injectors Moved vaccum canister from front bumper to under coolant bottle by the firewall (made vacuum lines shorters and replaced some lines with new tubing) Cleaned ALL electrical connectors and applied di-electric grease on pins Various voltage and resistance tests like you are doing Added a fuel rail pressure guage Sealed the PCV tubes coming out of the cam cover better Upgraded to a dual diaphram brake booster and master cylinder Eliminated the "cold air valve" in the opening of the airbox (it is a valve for when it is cold outside to heat the incoming air but is not needed) I have a CAT and muffler that is about 4-5 years old Indexed distributor Moved the idle Air screw on side of throttle body

Huh? I think you are mixing up Chrysler and Renix. Yes you are right... I got carried away! :doh: But, making sure the grounds are clean with good contacts are always a good thing to do.

I would try to actually get a fuel pressure reading off of the fuel rail to see if the fuel pressure stays constant and does not drop out. Should be around 40 psi. Make sure the intake/exhaust manifold bolts are tight because this would cause a vacuum leak if they are loose. Check the small vacuum hose coming from the throttle body to the MAP sensor on the firewall. If this hose is broken, cracked, or is not connected then this would cause idle and running issues. Make sure ALL the grounds are clean and have a good tight connection and contact. Grounds are located: Middle of the firewall (braided cable should be replaced with a proper thick cable), dipstick ground. I would also add a few ground wires to upgrade the system since Chrysler did not do a good job with this. Add a somewhat thick wire from the firewall to the heat shield on top of the intake manifold. You could also add a wire from the negative battery terminal to a radiator support. Running some Seafoam through the system also never hurts. That should give you a start on things...

Again... Look at the last few pages of my rough idle topic in my signature. Id suggest adjusting the throttle body screw AS A LAST RESORT..... it is facing the firewall I believe on the throttle body and has a metal cap on it. Take it off and screw it in/out until idle is good. But this is not the correct fix for idle. Vacuum leaks, low fuel, dirty injectors, bad grounds, bad sensors, incorrect voltages all come before this adjustment screw. (I know you checked and replaced a lot already). http://comancheclub.com/topic/42581-renix-dead-spot-and-idiling-low/page-8

Yeah having two people to bleed the brakes is definatly much easier. But... you could also buy a vacuum gun to suck the brake fluid out too. I tried that before and seemed to work pretty well.

If you ever want to do the brake booster upgrade (which I highly recommend), look in my signature for the link.

That seems to be a different issue. Did you bleed in this order? Passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front. Any leaking lines? Did you bench bleed the MC?

I would definatly replace the braided ground wire with a thick ground wire from firewall to engine block. Then make sure the ground post on the passenger side of the engine by the oil dipstick is CLEAN. No oil and clean contacts. It is a stud in the block so make sure that is also tight; along with the nut that goes on it.

I do not believe so... The pushrod that comes out of the booster into the master cylinder may be different lengths so it needs to match with the same year booster. The new Master cylinder also has two lines coming out so you do not fully lose brakes either.

Dual diaphram upgrade Step-by-step is in my signature. That is a MUST DO!

Well since it idles fine then to me that says there is not any vacuum leaks. But I would check for any of those anyways. Adjust your TPS sensor correctly? Is the fuse for your TCU (transmission control unit) blown? You can find your TCU under the passenger side dash. This may be a transmission thing but not sure.

Check the following vacuum hoses: MAP vacuum hose going from MAP sensor to throttle body. Vacuum lines running along the passenger side of the engine compartment to the passenger side front bumper. There is a vacuum bottle up front there and if any of those lines are cracked/broken then that is obviously an issue. Vacuum line going from fuel pressure regualtor to intake manifold. Vacuum line going from intake manifold to EGR valve. Vacuum line going from intake manifold to cruise control (if equipped). I personally moved my vacuum bottle from the passenger side front bumper to just under my coolant bottle by the firewall. I then cut the vacuum lines shorter. Shorter lines means less possibility of a vacuum leak.

He took a few days for me too but he will respond. Once he does itll take 2-3 days to ship. I trust him over ebay. Who knows if those injectors are clean or not.

Yes really low oil can cause overheating. It would have to be significantly low but oil keeps all your engine internals lubricated. When there is no lubrication then it becomes essentially metal on metal contact creating heat. Your truck isnt made to cool down an engine due to this. It is made to cool the engine with proper lubrication and operation. If the rubber radiator hoses are not leaking then they are still okay. There are no metal radiator lines in the system. They are all rubber. So they simply are dryrotted and leaking or not connected to where they are supposed to be? If they are not connected to anything then your truck is probably running with no coolant in it...causing the overheating. We need more details to help you though. I would: Fill your truck up with the correct amount of oil. Replace and reconnect any leaking rubber radiator hoses. Fill up your coolant bottle halfway (make sur eto use 50/50 coolant to water ratio).

I fixed my idle finally like 6 months ago but it was just a combination of everything that was said in my ROUGH IDLE topic. ...Clean grounds, upgrade ground wires, re-solder ground connections, ohm out wires for bad connections, voltage tests on certain sensors and relays, made sure I was getting good fuel pressure, upgraded my injectors, cleaned throttle body, made sure of NO vacuum leaks, replaced my intake/exhaust manifold gasket and made sure bolts were tight...

:agree: When you turn on your heat from the inside of the truck, this vacuum hose recieves vacuum which pulls open the heater core valve. This allows coolant to flow through your heater core thus giving you heat flowing through your vents.