1989 Eliminator

Yeah it was off a few degrees. So it helped I'm sure.

Yeah thats cool thanks for staying so I could figure out this screw. Yeah I indexed it awhile ago. I do have to replace my accelerator cable since the bracket broke on the cable. Wouldnt think it would have an effect on the fluctuating but ill replace it.

Yes and I just went ahead and played with it a bit. It was screwed in all the way clockwise. So I turned it back a bit until the rpms seemed okay. Then I test drove it and the idle is defiantly higher where it is supposed to be. Still fluctuating a bit like before though.

Okay I was worried that if I destroyed this plug that it would be a hole in the throttle body! :cry: Because I destroyed the plug..... Okay now I see the bleed screw.

Man I can't seem to get it out. I have a small pick but its not going around the plug.

Maybe a little dead spot still. Okay so I have the throttle body. I see some type of cap/plug on the outside and a small circle object on the inside diameter of the air passage. The throttle plate almost hits it. But doesnt hit the sides so it is properly set. Which plug is this bleed plug? inside or outside? Then do I just try and get it out by picking it from the sides of the plug?

Yeah seems to have a smooth idle now just kinda low.

I'm the second owner and the first was an old guy that drove it to golf and back haha he didnt mess with anything. Yeah ill be sure to get the air bleed. What is that for by the way? :???:

Well.... I replaced my MAP with a Duralast MAP sensor. And the idle is a lot smoother! It does not fluctuate nearly as much as it did. I will have to drive it around more to really notice the difference. The rpms in drive are still around 500-600 when they should be around 700-750. So still a little low. I am going to completly take off the throttle body and do another through clean. I did this before at the beginning of the year but I may as well do i again. So conclusion for now is that with a combination of everything I did... the MAP seemed to be old and wore out. The problem is that there is still a low idle. The ground upgrades and checks helped a lot. One more thing I did today. I took out that dumb flap in the airbox for the "hot air" during cold start. It isnt required just helps heat the motor faster. I lost the tube that goes to the exhaust manifold anyways so it wasnt doing anything. more airflow now haha :yes:

Okay well I did the test again with the new o2 sensor and everything seems to check out okay. I also took out my circuit board from the ECU and there werent any apparent bad components.

To me that looks like someone cut the rod and threaded both ends of the cutoff

If you mean that the sensor came with a three pin connector then yes. I havent had time to do it yet but will report back when I do.

Also... The new o2 sensor I bought was a Bosch but it looked different than the stock sensor. The stock sensor protruded outwards more and the new one has a shorter tip. Does this matter if they are different??

Well, get to work on it then. LOL. Exactly. Go through this whole thread and ull find everything you need to do. My O2 sensor is new but I will check for these values and give you guys an update.

I forgot about this but the bracket that is apart of the accelerator cable broke and I can see the spring that is inside. So I will replace this next. Would that cause any issue? Not sure why my videos arnt working :dunno:

https://vimeo.com/102749317 This is the idle when the issue was new

https://vimeo.com/102737124 This is how the idle is now after all the work ive done.

good idea.. I took a small break in the updates due to waiting for fuel injectors and such. The main issue is a rough/low idle that likes to "hunt" for the right idle. So the rpms will drop and then the engine will catch itself so it does not stall. In the morning is when it is the worst. When warmed up you can still notice it but not as extreme. You can almost feel and hear a slight miss which is when the rpms drop. All other rpm ranges are okay and the truck runs great besides at idle. I will post videos of what the gauge is doing soon. Things that I have done to try and cure the issue: All of Crusiers RENIX tips and tricks: upgraded engine grounds, sensor grounds, indexed distributor, "advanced" the CPS, valve cover mod, cleaned throttle body and IAC and adjusted TPS correctly, ECU pin refresh. All new vacuum lines MAP sensor hose is good and sealed clean air filter NEW: TPS, EGR valve and transducer, IAC, ICM and Coil, exhaust manifold gasket and bolts, cap and rotor and wires and spark plugs, O2 sensor. Recently installed 746 volvo fuel injectors (ultrasonically cleaned) Tested grounds on all sensors and ECU grounds. Also check continuity from ECU pins to component. Tested for O2 heater circuit. Works correctly. Tested TPS, MAP, Manifold air temp and coolant temp sensors, egr solenoid, relays. Other Notes: So the CPS is a MOPAR replacement. It is about two years old now though. I have tested the MAP and checked out good. Did not replace yet. I have an upgraded brake booster from a 96 XJ. Bought brand new. Cat and muffler are not clogged My vacuum pressure at idle is 15 HG and my fuel pressure is 31 psi at idle. When the vacuum hose is taken off the fuel pressure regulator the pressure jumps to 39 psi. I believe I covered everything. :ack: :papers:

Yes that was done a few pages ago lol

Yes that was done a few pages ago lol

So not a fuel issue then

Yes the pressure does shoot to 40 psi when the vac line is disconnected

Well I can't exactly check while I'm driving since the gauge is in the engine compartment but when I increased throttle via throttle body the fuel pressure increased from the 31psi at idle to around 35 psi. Then pressure stayed there as I held the throttle steady but there was still slight movement by 1 psi. There is more movement at idle.

Okay! Ultrasonic cleaned volvo 746 fuel injectors installed and now shes running a bit smoother! Good news. Better throttle response and smoother power through the rpms. I can still feel the mis sometimes though. The fuel gauge seems to fluctuate 2 psi or so and when the pressure drops so does the rpms. Maybe fuel pressure regulator?

Thanks guys! I get so many people wanting to buy it off of me. I havent lifted it yet but I was wanting a small lift and some 31's maybe. And yes I park in dark areas in my driveway.