1989 Eliminator

If it helps any... In my signature I have a link on ROUGH IDLE and I went through a whirlwind of idling issues and I about did everything possible to fix it. Have fun reading if you wish!

Nope. I would STRONGLY suggest going through a guy Programbo (username on Jeep Cherokee fourm). He sells fully cleaned (ultrasonic cleaning and reverse flushed) for $80 and gives you two extra injectors usually. Volvo 746 injectors refurbished from Programbo on Cherokee Forum He can get them to you within a few days because he has a ton in stock. In my honest opinion, this guy was the cheapest and easiest way of getting upgraded injectors.

If you cranking the engine over but nothing else happens, it is most likely your CPS (Crank Position Sensor). When these go bad the sensor never picks up the teeth on the flywheel and therefore never gives the correct time to send a spark signal. Check the CPS wire from the top by the firewall (two pin connector) all the way to the actual sensor on top of the transmission. If the wire is burnt then there is your issue. You can see all from the engine compartment; just have to look down and back to see the sensor. Cruiser 54 also has step by step instructions of how to test if the sensor is bad. I have a few links in my signature that might help too.

I also did the same thing. Bought new plastic vaccum line from a auto parts strore and used RTV to seal it better. It is a bit tricky to get the old plastic out of that rubber but it is managable. You make it sound SO EASY. Is that because it really is? LOL. Haha not exactly.... 26 year old rubber and plastic wanna be left alone!

I also did the same thing. Bought new plastic vaccum line from a auto parts strore and used RTV to seal it better. It is a bit tricky to get the old plastic out of that rubber but it is managable.

Well....if your up to the task... if you look in my signature under this message you can see a ROUGH IDLE RENIX link. That is my topic I started and it is very long but I did just about everything to fix my idle.

If it was your CPS sensor, the starter would still turn but the engine would not fire. Definatly seems like a starter motor but I would also check all your grounds. (side of engine block by oil dipstick, firewall, battery terminals...)

Had the same problem. Looked through my electric FSM and determined it was the headlight switch. Replaced the headlight switch and she was back to normal!

I would also strongly suggest checking the ballast resistor on the driver side engine compartment by the air box. If these wires are bad or the resistor is bad then there will be minimal power or no power going to the pump. Another ground would be the engine dipstick ground. Make sure that stud is tight in the block and CLEAN... Your new regualtor is most likely working correctly but if you have a vacuum leak then that will cause the WRONG fuel prssure to be in the fuel rail. Check various hoses under the hood for any cracked/missing vacuum hoses.

How much did all the parts for the rear disk conversion cost? Just the rear brake parts and not the master cylinder & brake booster...

Havent found one yet. But... After a day of my TCU being unplugged I decided to plug it back in and see what happens. It NOW shifts from 1st to 4th while the shifter is in D. But, the shift points are way off. In all gears the trans shifts at much higher rpms than normal and sometimes when I let off the gas the truck does not coast, it rather engine brakes until I hit the brake pedal which then settles down the engine.

1990 and older TCU

Well, let the TCU hunt begin

Should the ground probe on the ohm meter be touching pin B or engine ground? Because when I touch engine ground I get a value and not with pin B This is now with the tcu to trans connector plugged in and back probing the wires... With no voltage: Pin E: 15.2 Pin F: 25.7 Pin G: 15.5

Looks like it is the same

So I got a 9v battery with wires attached, I then put the positive wire into the female connector going to the trans in pin F. I then put the negative side of the battery into the female connector going to the trans in pin B. I then put a ohm meter in the same place of the wires and got a open circuit. I did this for E, F, and G and got all open.

Took the board out of my tcu and it looks okay... No blown capacitors or burnt resistors

Well junkyard said an 88 haha well no luck with getting the same tcu.

I also found a tcu from a 1998 xj. Different part #

Yes brake lights work. Does anyone know where the tcu is on a 1988 jeep wagoneer? Or if it even has one... It has the v6

The plunger hits my brake lever and the wire is connected to the TCC switch

Reverse: goes into reverse Park: no movement Neutral: no movement 1-2: first gear only Can then shift to 3rd... 3: 3rd gear Can then shift to D D: shifts into gear but doesnt seem like much of a change. I think because the TC isnt locking up. Can downshift from D to 3 to 1-2

Okay. So its either the #2 solenoid or the TCU. Ill check the solenoid first then go get the TCU from the wagoneer.

So a nearby junkyard has a 1988 wagoneer. Ill see if that tcu works. Since the tcu connector is disconnected and I'm able to shift manually, is that why I do not have OD or a WOT condition? It seems to skip 2nd as well.