1989 Eliminator

I actually just did my headlight upgrade with the putco harness, e-code housings, and Hella 80/90 W bulbs. What a difference!!

Well there is a "air screw" that you can play with to FINE TUNE the idle only. This shouldnt be used to completely fix the issue here. This sounds like a bad MAP like part of my issue was. I chased a rough/low/varying idle for a long time and finally solved it through everything I changed and checked. Click on my link below in my signature for my story. Lots of good information in there.

Yes because lines from the jy will have only english or metric fittings on both sides. The lines you need will have an english fitting on one side and metric on the other.

Take a look at the thread in my signature about rough idle. It is a lot of pages but I had the same issue as you and cleared up my problems. I would try: -cleaning all electrical connectors -check for high resistance for all your ground wires. I'm not just talking about your big ground cables, I'm talking about sensor ground wires and ecm ground wires. You would have to get a electrical manual to really see where everything is -make sure your O2 sensor is getting the 12V to heat it up. -This also could be a intermittent bad CPS

Click on the link in my signature about the rough idle.... Ive done just about everything to fix my idle issue and it is finally good.

my 89 is also colorado red

Yeah they were a little expensive but I like them and will be awesome in the snow. They are BFG All-Terrains KO. 30" x 9.5" on 15" rims.

No just this tube. Ill clean it out and see what that does. :thumbsup:

There was a decent amount of oil coming from this hose and it comes from the top of the axle to the frame? Not sure what it does.

So I decided to give my MJ a small 2" budget lift with coil spacers and shackles. Yes this is a simple project but I like write-ups, personal experiences and pictures! :D :typing: 1989 Jeep MJ Eliminator 2WD Straight 6 For the coil spacers, I worked on one side at a time. I jacked the frame up on one side then placed a jack stand on that same side. Then I placed the jack under the front axle and raised the axle up a bit. I did this so I could take off the: coil hold down bracket, lower control arm (one side of the arm), shocks, trac bar, and sway bar links. This was all needed to take out the coil spring. You can use a coil compressor but I didnt get one. THEN... The bumpstop. This is taken off by SCREWING IT OFF. It is not welded. At least on my 89. So take a pipe wrench and screw off the end of the bumpstop so you can slide on the coil spacer. Place in the coil spring and then do the same for the other side! As shown below is the bumpstop. It looks welded together but it actually screws off. The shackles are very easy. Spray penetrating fluid on the fours bolts, lift the back of the truck up and put jack stands on both sides. Letting the axle hang is the leaf springs neutral position so no pressure is present. Un-bolt the old shackle and put in the new one! :driving:

Yes, loose or missing bolts that hold the intake AND exhaust manifolds onto the block are essential. Having a loose manifold on either the intake or exhaust will cause a vacuum leak. So make sure you have all the bolts and make sure they are tightened. 21 ft-lbs I think. Sometimes the manifold gasket goes bad and that needs replacing. The intake and exhaust share the same gasket on the block. The MAP sensor will also cause a high idle. So make sure the vacuum line coming out of the throttle body to the MAP sensor is connected properly.

What A/F meter do you have?

test

I have a very similar setup to yours. My EGR is working and mine is an 89 2WD. Other than that pretty much the same. I just went through a bunch of rough idle/hesitation diagnosis and here is the thread for it. The thread is very long but has a lot of good info. http://comancheclub.com/topic/42581-renix-dead-spot-and-idiling-low/ I know during startup the truck runs rich anyways until the O2 sensor is hot enough to be operational and go into close loop mode. The O2 sensor is in open loop mode when warming up meaning it isnt sending any signals to the ECU. I smell a good amount of exhaust as well on mine during startup. Then its not so bad after its warmed up.

+2 ^^^^ This. Good guy to work with. ^^^^^^^^ This also. He is really cheap and will clean then injectors for you. ultrasonic and back flush cleaning. Usually around $80 for 6-8. (He sends extras). I bought 8 dirty injectors for $50 because I can clean them myself.

well here is a great thread and has about everything you can imagine about idle and hesitation issues. Its a long thread but a lot of good information, pictures, and how-to-do instructions. http://comancheclub.com/topic/42581-renix-dead-spot-and-idiling-low/

Still havent been able to find a snap-on scanner but I have played with the air bleed screw some more and she seems to be running really good now! No more low idle and the idle is clean without jumping around. :rotfl2: Thanks for all the help! I have done about everything to fix a rough idle and I hope this becomes a good reference for how to fix your idle in the future. It is a very long thread though! :thumbsup:

Hm i didnt know the "renix scam tool" did that. Ill get my hands on one

Eh yeah high school auto shop haha doesnt that just tell you basically suggestions of what you should do? Like if this is happening do this...

Well after a long drive today, I noticed the how the truck idles can vary. Sometimes at a stop the truck will idle pretty good and other times the rpms will jump around a bit and can feel a rough idle. The rough idle is not terrible like it is going to stale but defiantly noticeable.

Well the instructions say use an analog... But I did use a digital anyways just to see the readings and they were switching from 1-4 volts constantly.

I tested for ground, the 12 v heater and the 5 v signal. But i do not have an analog meter to test the switching

Okay I know this is pretty straight forward and an easy job, but for some people mechanical work is either new or hard for then. So, why not make a thread for reference and pictures! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!THIS IS FOR A 2WD 1989 MJ. I know most 4WD or other models do not have a one piece rotor and bearing assembly.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! . :MJ 1: . Okay so first thing to do is jack the truck up. Either one side at a time or both. Take wheels and calipers and brake pads off. This first picture shows the rotor and axle cap. This cap covers the nut and bearings so no crud gets inside. To take it off, use a small screwdriver to pry the outer side lip away. To re-install this cap you would just line it up and lightly hit around the lip in a rotational pattern and it will then seat in place. This second picture shows what is underneath the cap. Pin, nut lock, and nut. You can't really see the bearings yet but there is the smaller front bearing behind the nut. The third picture shows this pin out. The fourth picture shows the "lock nut" The fith picture shows the back side of the rotor. The main bigger bearing sits underneath the wheel seal. To take the seal out, just pry it out because you should buy a new one. Sixth picture shows main bearing and seal out. Clean and re-grease the bearings and just do all of this backwards to install back in! When tightening the bearings with the big nut you originally took off, the spec is 17-25 ft-lbs. But the way you are supposed to tighten a bearing pack is this: Tighten just past finger tight, loosen a little, turn the wheel, tighten again a little more, loosen, turn wheel, then tighten to ~19 ft-lbs. This is the make sure the bearings a seated correctly.

Nothing noticeable or extreme. Just some air movement due to the rockers moving. I have also noticed that right after a fill up, the truck revs up good after the first start up, and then settles down to a good idle. But after awhile of driving it goes back to fluctuating at idle. And yes I have replaced my gas cap. I don't know if right after filling up would cause anything to run better for some reason.

For those following this thread here is the "plug" that covers the air bleed screw. I destroyed it.... But its just a thin circle piece of metal. Here is the location of the air bleed screw.