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1989 Eliminator

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Everything posted by 1989 Eliminator

  1. I have a 1998 xj that I was going to try out later today. Is the too new of a jeep or would that work? And your saying 12V to pin f and watch the ohms of which contacts? Between B and F?
  2. B is ground. I have the FSM manual for the engine and it has some transmission stuff in it too. I also have the electrical manual too. Solenoid 2 reads 18.5. Is that too high?
  3. Okay well I tried running it without the white connector pulled in and I can shift manually. With the white connector plugged in, it stays in 2nd gear and won't upshift
  4. Yes the white connector. Ive looked at other posts and seen diagrams of where each wire goes.
  5. No WOT. When I slam the pedal it does not go into WIDE OPEN THROTTLE
  6. TPS voltages are okay. Transmission cable is adjusted properly.
  7. Both fuses are okay. I just drove it again because I let it cool down and not the TC does not seem to be locking up I think. I have to manually shift from first to drive in order to move. If I leave it in drive it takes awhile for it to get going.
  8. Okay I take back what I said. On the trans connector side I probed e,f, and g to b which is ground. All connections were open. Then I probed e,f, and g to the engine and got the following.. E 15.2 ohms F 18.e ohms G 15.7 ohms When I probed b on the trans side to engine ground I got nothing. Then I probed b on the tcu side and got .2 ohms.
  9. Recently, I had a coolant line blow out which lead to coolant all over the engie compartment. I replaced the hose and filled back up with coolant. It ran fine for almost a whole day. I jump started someone, parked it for 20 minutes, and when I went to drive it again the truck would not shift into fourth. I can shift into 1st 2second third, and reverse. I checked the 3 solenoid ohm readings and they are 21. What else? Desperate need of help...
  10. Just replaced my steering stabilizer and still no change in the issue.
  11. Well, just to take out the idea of my caliper pins having too much oxidation on them and causing the caliper to not slide right, I put in new slider pins. Problem still exsits so I'm thinking its the tire somehow so I will try to get my tires rotating.
  12. Okay well I just got done repacking my bearings with the new tool I got and it worked fantastic. Re-installed the bearings, tightened the axle nut while spinning the rotor, bleed the brake fluid, and made sure the brake shield plate wasnt rubbing. I put the tire on without the caliper and wiggled the tire from the 12 and 6 position (top and bottom) and there was nothing. Solid. Then I took the tire off, put the caliper on, cleaned the sliders, re-greased them and put the tire back on. Drove the truck around and the noise is still there. When the truck is on the ground and I grab the top of the tire and shake, I feel something moving. Bad caliper? It might be the tire making the noise?
  13. I did not replace my calipers. Just brake pads and rotors.I cleaned off the sliders with a wire brush wheel to get most of the roughness off. Then re-installed sliders with brake caliper grease.
  14. Appreciate the response. They are brand new tires and I just got an alignment. They would not be able to do the alignment if the tie rods were bad and I even asked them. I'm going to do my wheel bearings one more time.... with this grease press tool I bought: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002NYDYO/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I will letcha ya'll know when I'm done. :crossfingers: :wrench:
  15. I would highly suggest sending those weird ford ones back... I'm not even sure if those are compatible/interchangeable with the stock comanche ones. So yes, that is probably why your truck was running bad. Hopefully you can send them back! Give programbo a message and he will hook you up for $80 out the door.
  16. Just make sure they are cleaned, you have all new fuel rated o-rings, and have all the injector clips that go on the fuel rail. Good to go.
  17. I think its a tell tale sign to contact Programbo and be done with this whole injector upgrade situation... :ack: Maybe you can send him the injectors and he can clean them for you for $15 because I think he has a ultrasonic cleaner which is what I also used. Those are not easily accessible but if you can't clean yours he defiantly has enough injectors to sell to you.
  18. I also had a leak and replaced the manifold gasket which was bad. Then about two years later I had another leak and thought it was the gasket again but turned out to be a small crack on the manifold I was unable to see unless I took it off. I then got the manifold welded since it was a small crack. Id also suggest doing the garden hose trick which is just taking a small piece of hose with one end by your ear and moving the other end around different spots by the manifold. Wherever you hear the loudest sound is where your issue is located. The hose is acting as a stethoscope...
  19. MJ Model: 1989 Jeep MJ 4.0L 2WD Issue at hand: At lower speeds when turning, I notice a vibration coming from the front driver side wheel. Seems to be worse when turning and I can kinda feel it driving straight. What I have done: I have installed a 2" lift using coil spacers and chevy drop shackles. I did not get an adjustable track bar. This was done about 6 months ago. I then had a weird noise and vibration in the same tire so I thought it was my bearings. I replaced the bearings with new ones. The issue was still there so I thought it was because I didnt replace the one piece rotor at the same time. So, I replaced the rotor and with new bearings again. (I packed the bearings very well)... Seemed to help but issue was still there. When the truck is parked, and when I grab the top of the tire and shake it back and forth, I hear a clicking like something is loose. So I replaced my ball joints. Problem still there. Brake pads looked good and didnt have unusual wear. Would appreciate some insight.
  20. Ive done a BUNCH of work... basically everything from cruiser tips to looking into the wiring harness to fine my issue. You can find the link in my signature for low/rough idle. Its a long forum but a lot of information.
  21. I like to do a radiator and heater core reverse flush every other year
  22. 0 280 255 746 Volvo.. Just as cruiser said. I got mine from a fellow member on Cherokee Forum. His username is: "Programbo" Send him a message and he will send you 6-8 injectors (2 extra for spare) and he cleans them for you. He will charge ya around $80 for injectors and cleaning.
  23. A bad ballast resistor wouldnt cause a idle issue. All that resistor does is hinder the current going to the fuel pump to basically quiet it down a bit so the pump is not running at full capacity.
  24. The air screw I talked about can settle down that idle. If you click on my link and on one of the last pages there is a good picture of it. Have your truck running and play around with it. Turn the screw in and out and observe the idle changes. I would also highly suggest this. If you have a manifold leak then you would smell exhaust (rich smelling) and the vacuum leak would cause a higher idle.
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