1989 Eliminator

Well if the gases get too hot then it would distort the gasket material in the gasket causing a leak? Thats my thinking. Because I'm having a low and sometimes rough idle. And sometimes i can hear a leak (ticking)

I thought id try them! And i guess thats why my manifold gasket is going bad again. Everything is running too hot

I bought them awhile ago. They are E3 spark plugs. http://www.e3sparkplugs.com/redirect.php?p=%2F If these are wrong then would this affect idle?

So i tested/checked the TPS, CTS, o2 and map sensors. All my grounds are upgraded and clean. Could this be a knock sensor issue? If its bad it wouldnt retard the spark like its supposed too. Possibly not enough back pressure and thats messing with egr? I'm stuck!

I bought it from lazerdesigns. It was a custom order and they engraved it on the flashlight. it ran me $40. Pretty cool i think!

I bought this awesome 3 cell maglite for the truck.

does anyone know of a high quality manifold gasket? I already replaced it once so I do not want to do it again!

No I have not. If i spray that near the gasket then the motor should stall?

I mean its so small. A very light ticking sound when accelerating. but Ill do that very long job.....

I have done my research before asking you guys on this but I can't seem to put my finger on what the issue is. Latly only at idle after coming to a stop, the rpm's would go really low and want to stale then jump back up a little. Today the same thing happened but worse and there was a little hesitation on take off. But after gaining speed I am totally fine. Shifts fine and cruises fine at all speeds. SO I was thinking either a vaccum leak ( I have checked the hoses but who knows) or a O2 sensor going bad or the MAT sensor is going bad (engine temperature sensor that determines air-fuel ratio I do have a small intake/exhaust manifold gasket leak but I don't see how that would create such a hesitation. I had the gasket go about two years ago and was running fine. I have upgraded all my grounds, I have a mopar CPS and drilled out the top mounting hole, cleaned all connectors and relays, plugs and distributor are fine, air filter is fine. I would appreciate the input.

Well I am going to try it out. I might cut the bottom of the holders out so that the drink will sit lower and creating a less chance of it tipping over. I still like the one I made :rotfl2:

I am not sure if you are aware of this but I stumbled upon a cupholder the crown automotive (quadratec) makes. It is bolt it and universal if you have the center counsle dish. http://www.quadratec.com/products/72151_01.htm

Here is my write up on my dual diaphram brake booster conversion and I have clear pictures of what the swtich looks like and where it is. I drilled my hole too big so i put two thin peices of duck take on the brake light switch plate. Read my write-up and it makes it a little bit more clear. http://comancheclub.com/topic/39437-1996-xj-dual-diaphragm-brake-booster-conversion/

So I had a similar issue where when the tmep outside was below -10 deg. F only cold air would be blowing out and when it did work it was luke warm. So it sounds like you flushed the heater core. But maybe a different way. They way I flushed mine was take the upper heater hosesoff from the thermostat housing and the lower heater hose off from that heater control valve. I then put a peice of rubber inbetween a vise grip to crimp the hose going to the bottle. I did this becasue when I blew into one of the heater hoses with my air compressor I wanted all the pressure to go to the heater core not into the bottle. I then poured water down both hoses and blew into each of the hoses. I did this process a few times back and forth until I thought it was sufficent. I also put a empty coolent jug at the end of the opposite hose I was blowing into so all the water and crud wouldnt go all over my engine compartment. After this my truck was putting out heat like nothing else. Big difference. I will say though, even thought my heat was awesome when it worked, during these extreme cold days here in michigan my vents would blow cold air. Not sure if it was the blend door or the heater control valve. Just giving my input and trying to help. :dunno:

Definatly a huge difference! Here is my write up. http://comancheclub.com/topic/39437-1996-xj-dual-diaphragm-brake-booster-conversion/

I didnt even use a spacer with my new 96 xj booster and my pedal position is just fine.

Yeah that makes sense to delete that valve. But I bought a quality t-stat not a crappy one less than a month ago. So that isnt the issue. The truck is warming up fine. I am just sometimes not getting heat through my vents. So its either: my main vent gate gets stuck sometimes when its cold as crap outside, or I have an intermediate vaccum leak which isnt opening the main gate sometimes. Which I think the last one isnt correct because if I had a leak the vents wouldnt work at all. It could also be that the vaccum diaphram is frozen?

haha is right. Well ill check that out!! :thumbsup:

Yes, I could re-flush my core using CLR and vinegar. Could make a increase in heat. But I did flush it a few times back and forth with just water and air which seemed to do the trick. If I were to get rid of that stupid valve though would I run a hose from the pump to the pressure bottle, then bottle to heater core, then heater core back to the pump? I am unsure because I still have the closed coolent system. Either way, both hoses are getting hot and going through the heater core. I am not sure where to check in the HVAC where the main gate door is and if its working

Okay so here in Michigan the temps have been close or below zero for most of the month. My issue is that sometimes my heat will not work. What happens is when the truck warms up fine to operating temperature, I turn on the heat and cold air blows out. What I have done to try and fix this is back flush the heater core. Which did help because when the heat does work the air is a lot hotter than before. There was quite a bit of crud in there. What I assume now is that: 1) I am not getting enough vaccum to open the main air flow gate which either lets ambient air or heated air through. 2) The main gate is frozen somehow 3) vaccum leak somewhere...? After the temperatures outside increase a little and the inside of the truck warms up a bit, the heat works fine. It is only when the mornings are arctic cold. Am I right with my assumtions or is there anything else I should check?

No actully i did not replace the bulbs themselves. I bought led strips and put one behind the clear plastic shield and the grayish one. It lays behind those and on the bottom of the dash so it shines up and illuminates the gauges. I then hooked up a separate switch and power from the cigarette lighter

In this topic you will read about what I have done so far with my 1989 Jeep Comanche Eliminator Edition. I am simply making this topic because I like to read what other people have done and what their experiences are so I can learn from them. So if you have any questions or comments about what I have done let me know! I HAVE PICTURES!! :rotfl2: I bought it with 32,000 original miles. Exhaust----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Flowmaster Delta Series Exhaust High flow cat . :MJ 1: . I had the cat and muffler welded together as well as a down pipe tip welded at the end of the exhaust The cat was then welded onto the flange by the bottom scrap bar that supports the transmission I had my exhaust/intake manifold gasket go bad on me so I replaced that and if anyone has questions on how to get to it just let me know. You do have to take the injectors off which I didnt know. I would also recommend a high quality gasket so you don't have to go through that long process again. Intake------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I bought a high performance oiled cotton air filter that you can clean with a solution. It has a warranty replacement. Good results and I like it. Here is the website: http://www.greenfilterusa.com/ :driving: Regularly clean the throttle plate. Tried the seafoam procedure to clean out the intake manifold to get the carbon out once. Id say its a good thing but do not do that often. Maybe every 50,000 miles Electrical---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Upgraded the grounds on the engine, firewall, and inside one of the main wiring harnesses. Refer to Cruiser54's instructions! Added LED lights in my dash. Pretty cool I think. 8) I spliced the brake lights to wire in a four wire trailer plug. I did not cut the original truck brake wire though. I actually carefully just cut the insulation off and then soldered the plug wires on. This way I will always have a complete wire section for my truck brakes just in case the soldering becomes bad. No headache! :group beer: I recently added a supplemental wiring harness for the headlights to get the full voltage from the battery. I bought this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001P29X4G/ref=pe_385040_30332200_pe_309540_26725410_item This was definitely a good upgrade! 25% brighter lights for cheap. You could go one step further and buy new e-code bulbs and housings. I chose not too...yet. Old Lighting system with stock lights and wiring harness getting ~10 V: New wiring harness with stock bulbs: :rock on: LOTS of ground checking and such because of a low idle issue. You can find my experience in my signature........ Exterior--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Undercoating! As you can see I undercoated the bottom of the side panels just low enough where you cannot see if you were standing. I also coated part of my door jam so when I kick my feet off so no dirt gets inside my truck it won't scratch that surface. But where that wider coating is on top i guess you can say, is a black plastic cover that screws into those holes. So it covers the coating but I did it anyways. Painted my bumpers a nice black finish. I have a fiberglass cap on the bed. Wax and keep clean! :clapping: NEW TIRES and 2" Lift. BFG 31's with a 2" coil spacer and rear shackles. Interior------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ I made my own cupholder! :yes: It is an interesting concept but it works AWESOME. I used foam from a couch cushion and cut it into the shape of the console. Then dug out the holes for the cups. I made the holes a little smaller because this puts side pressure on the cups when you put them in. Results? Drinks do not move at all Insulates the drinks and the cupholder itself is easily removable if not in use New poineer speakers in the door and side panels as well as a new pioneer radio which was a needed upgrade from my 25 year old speakers. Happy with the results. I can supply the model numbers if requested. 20% tinted windows Brakes------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- THE BEST UPGRADE :thumbsup: :wrench: Dual Diaphram Brake Booster from a 96 Cheerokee and new matching master cylinder. I actually wrote a DIY on this and just take a look. Twice the braking power of the stock system. I highly recommend this and this is a really clear writeup with a lot of views. http://comancheclub.com/topic/39437-1996-xj-dual-diaphragm-brake-booster-conversion/ Cooling/Heating---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Flushed the coolent system a few times to keep it clean. A problem a came into is that I cannot get the drain plug in the side of the block out. A 3/8 extension does not fit and that is what it looks like should be the right tool. I havent figured that out yet so I just use the petcock in the radiator. During this cold winter :fs2: ... My heat was not normal. Jeeps should be shootin out heat that will burn your skin (not really). But I was getting like 70 deg air or less. Not right. And my temp gauge was showing fine and everything was running normal. Both heater hoses were warm... Now both were warm so you wouldnt think the heater core was plugged but it was.. I reverse flushed the heater core a few times both ways and now I'm getting amazing heat. I still have that vacuum valve so I had to clamp an extra hose in order to reverse flush. That valve also stuck during the -30 deg weather and did not let coolant flow through the heater core. Any questions please ask. Update: My heat works great now. I replaced the heater control valve because it was leaking and I also back flushed my heater core which it what really made the difference. Misc.---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I did have issues with my Jeep not starting due to my bad CPS Did all of Crusier54's renix tips and tricks. He did a good job with those writeups and helped a bunch. :bowdown: I have been having idling issues with a low idle. Here is the link to the thread: http://comancheclub.com/topic/42581-renix-dead-spot-and-idiling-low/ Added a Permanent Fuel Pressure Gauge on the Fuel Rail. http://comancheclub.com/topic/12565-permanent-fuel-rail-pressure-gauge/ Upcoming projects (topic will be updating)------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Buying a high quality gasket for that damn valve cover. It is always slowly leaking oil :fs1: COMPLETED Taking the clear coat off my rims and polishing and re-clear coating 4x4 conversion Again feel free to ask questions :waving:

I have that same color on my 89 eliminator. Mine are still in good shape though.

Here are two websites to order the upgraded headlight parts from: The harness: http://www.eautowork... ... D7540.aspx The e-code housings and bulbs from Susquehanna Motor Sports: http://www.rallyligh...ail.aspx?ID=744 I found these off of another topic (http://comancheclub.com/topic/27796-2001-eliminator/?p=336763) and he bought: Hella e-code H4 headlight housings and Osram 85W/80W bulbs and the eautoworks upgrade harness I have not ordered these yet myself but they seem to be better quality that what you would find on amazon.

the wire is fine. I put on the new one and its running fine again. My volt gauge is reading past 14 V so I'm assuming its fine. But I don't know if there is a ground fault somewhere in the system