JeepcoMJ

so you're saying what we all know. a plow truck even with that low of miles, is not worth 8k sooo therefore you're saying the winning bidder was a douche, and we applaud him for NOT taking that thing.

brings back memories doesn't it Pat? 8) yea but i didn't build that... paid $250 and got some good factory parts off of it. but...the rest of it was JUNK. wheeled it awhile...scrapped it, and after i scrapped it, found out that the guys who sold it to me sold it because they thought it was unsafe (no sh*t...both coil buckets collapsed, both rear springs broke, stock control arms on 7"+ of lift, no rear brakes..... brings back good memories :D

wanna check on that abandoned comanche for us? it looks like it was a street race pickup...

porn and some durka durka talk

well the body was decent. his lift consists of control arms, and steel tube to drop the coil mounts lower. terrible. and a turdy-5 rear.

:P gonna delete them then? count 2 in tech.

hey guys, pete's obviously not on so... if you could, cause i'm sure it would be easier for him to fix the problems when he gets on, please don't post on these spam posts. just makes more posts for him to delete and whatnot. pete, please delete this too if you'd like when you see it. -Pat

didn't figure it would take long

don't soak the glass...spread the resin while the glass is laid onto the headliner on the headliner. you WANT the liner to soak the stuff in...otherwise all you're doing is adding another layer, not bonding the layers. the reason that the fabric falls is that the bonded layers spread apart... this is my experience and my technique...

you're supposed to mix the hardener in with the resin and it takes at least a few hours to dry. check my 3800 build thread, this page http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... &start=120 thats how i did mine and it took 3.5 quarts, with the hardener mixed in.

:P $35 for a rollbar, $20 for the driveshaft I need, $75 for an aw4, and $30 for a 3:55 geared front axle. yup. even parts. now to pick up that damned comanche...next weekend it looks like. too damned cold right now.

yep. my dad does snowmobile partng/repair and we restore these old yamaha's. my bro decided to rebuild one as kinda a resto-mod. it's a 1978 yamaha exciter 440 but will be down as a modified stock class for drags and such... but, yeah that could work for a cowl :D

How in the world would they get him a clutch kit for a GM Iron Duke 2.5L if they looked the clutch kit up for his truck? The GM Iron Duke 2.5L was never used in the Cherokee or Comanche ever and was never available. The 2.5L used in the Cherokee and Comanche is an AMC 2.5L and is a totally different motor than the GM Iron Duke 2.5L. beats me dude, but fact is they got him the wrong parts. i didn't say that the iron duke was available in the xj's. trust me, i know what engine options are available. just...slow up a bit. they got him the "wrong" part (throwout bearing) when he ordered the clutch system. the part didn't match the part that's in my cherokee 2.5 5 speed 4wd, and the part in my cherokee matches the part in my 2.8 comanche. of course, the comanche is a 3.8 now and the transmission originally came from a 2.5 in the first place, but fact is that every single throwout plate (i have about 3 laying here, with the throwout bearings as well) I have laying here is identical, and came from a variation of a 2.8 v6 5 speed or a 2.5 4 cylinder 5 speed so the question here is is the flywheel different? I don't think that it measures different in thickness, which is the measurement that would effect it. the only difference i can think of is the way it's balanced (2.8 and 2.5 are NOT neutrally balanced), and the timing windows on it for the CPS pickup (2.8 doesn't have them since it's not F.I.) so, does anyone have any info different than that? or something to correct my reasoning?

ah. maybe something will help clear things up... the old clutch had about 60% life left I'd say, but the new clutch needed to go in at the time for the reason you explained...easier now. flywheel had no problems :D

hmm i'm not sure why you'd swap a perfectly good flywheel...

2.8 and 2.5 transmissions are the same. and he went external slave cylinder because internal slave SUCKS to fix. sooo...went with what was definitely most correct for external slave, since his parts store got him the wrong style of throwout/clutch combo (for a forward pressed slave i.e. older iron duke 2.5). correy, i did some cross-referencing and i'm pretty sure that everything's the same part number. it's the hydraulics is my bet.

a 4.0 aw4 shortbed 4x4 rear driveshaft for $20 no yoke and no ujoints (still a great deal IMHO) sorry no pic also a... roll bar. $35 with the lights. it's a bolt-together show bar but with some welding could be structural. test fit in 89eliminator's truck... got it from a swb comanche, but it's actually out of a dodge dakota originally. so. yeah, they work. it sits high in wade's truck because the bedliner is currently in it, but that's easily fixed. good haul. picking up that 86 parts comanche soon too :D

so do you have to crawl under it to shift into 4wd? :P

no the entire bulkhead connector is different.

and I'm editing my sig with a new statement...

LMAO man that's the best. actually, it was $50 and I gave the guy who got me the owner's number $20... :nuts:

I would say "durka durka" cause that's what I just read, 'cept that over there the only equations they can do are body mass index and kilo-per-explosion ratios....

uh...$70 got me a COMPLETE 1988 4 cyl 2wd shortbed with canyon rims and bfg mud terrains...no title... it's made me $250 so far, I still have the canyons and tires as spares, got another set of canyons too..., TNT got the cab section of it so we can extend his cab, i'm making a trailer out of the back, and using the header panel on another truck, plus making a cowl hood with it and putting the windshield in my cherokee. I haven't paid more than $300 for a comanche yet....except the 1989 comanche that TNT now has gotta love wisconsin. picking up another one this weekend for $225

there are 3 parking brake cables on an mj and a 2 door xj has the same wheelbase as a 4 door so there won't be a difference there. you need a stub cable that attaches from the xj handle to the mj bracketry and use mj rear cables. like I say, there are TWO rear cables for the ebrake.

the doors are not as structural as you'd think. they only have 2 mounting points and one latch point...3 points don't hlep the body much in a rollover and don't control flex.