JeepcoMJ

may as well hold off for a 4wd xj. then you'll get everything you need for the 4wd, AND 4.0 swap. transmissions are 100% not interchangeable between the 4.0 and the 2.5. you need the engine, tranny, driveshaft(s), transfercase, and ALL ENGINE BAY wiring as well as ALL interior wiring from the driver's seats forward.

you are taking care to do some of the best work I've ever seen done. frankly, i'm now ashamed of my work... :oops:

:P they call me....tatersalad. haha. nah. i'm pat beer's in the fridge :cheers:

easy. slide the seat all the way forward. grab a phillips head screwdriver (or even a flathead) slide it into the gap between the upper portion of the seat and the lower cushion, and push towards the passenger side while you're holding the forward-tip handle up. should be able to pop the latch, and tilt forward what happens that causes them to stop working, is that right inside the back portion of the seat on the bottom, a small metal tab bends after use. the latch is cable-operated and the metal tab is what the lower end of it hooks to. bending it back (towards the driver's side I believe) will solve the problem, but pete's way works just as well.

well. it needs to be driving so I decided to yank out the busted rear axle. yes, it does make sense. blew 7 pinion teeth and two ring gear teeth. what fun. anyways, the housing is still good so it'll be tossed under TNT's 89 MJ to keep it rolling for now. gotta wait for him to get home so i can go steal back my other 3.55 geared dana 35. reason for doing it this way is that I don't currently want to regear, and I'm in the middle of a 1 man job...so i don't want to bleed brakes. I HAVE a 4.09 geared dana 44 in the barn but it's going in with the lift and new front axle. Image Not Found Image Not Found back to work time...finish this up today, then go over the clutch hydraulic system again to be sure it's all good. it's done driveable after that. selling my cherokee in a week or two so keep an eye out

231 won't help all that terribly much. just a better transfercase than a 207

do you have buckets or bench. the latches are different for them. let us know, and I can do a quick walk-through for you on getting it to tip forward.

yes, no cutty cutty and no need to with that high of a lift.

cutting the rear frame off to truggy it. and the front fender wells and header off....*ahem*

had my bro weld the manifold up for me, and started mounting up everything on a sheet of diamondplate Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

thanks man. that's exactly what I needed to know. the crossmember mounts already has holes drilled for it on a 2.8 I believe, just needs threaded

would ya send them back again? I accidently deleted all of them. that pesky delete all button...

definitely an improvement... still, most people would have just sold the rims :P

had my bro weld the manifold up for me, and started mounting up everything on a sheet of diamondplate Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

not on my 86, or my 89...

big effing fish...

gah. now i want to put in a check valve, and pressure switches are expensive. this project may not get done a.s.a.p. I have a "junk" compressor here at home but...it works, and I'm not inclined to screw with that since it just needs a hole in the tank welded. may wait to get another junk compressor and just use it for parts.

got everything I need except for the pressure cutoff switch, and one 1/4x1/4 threaded adapter. here you can see how little room I have to work with Image Not Found but, on the bright side it's still easy to work with Image Not Found drilling out for 90 degree fitting Image Not Found first holes Image Not Found back of compressor Image Not Found with manifold mounted Image Not Found manifold. I have to weld plugs on the two open holes Image Not Found here's the completed setup Image Not Found air filter and oiler Image Not Found regulator, oil/water seperator, connector. haven't installed the connector/seperator yet because i'm not sure where they will be located. Image Not Found back of the compressor. as stated, i gotta weld the holes yet Image Not Found the braided line is actually water line. copper inside, stainless steel braiding. $3 each at 20" long, and they are meant to hold up to 2,000 PSI. we'll see how they work Image Not Found I do need to pick up a pressure cutoff switch before I can wire this all in. otherwise it's a pretty complete system

I'm in the process of building an on board air system for it right now...will update with pics as it comes along. so far spent (at menards) $7 on a cheapo hose i can use offroad $35 on a pretty heavy duty air filter/oiler/pressure regulator system. $6 on the oil/water seperator $5 on some fittings it's meant to run : air tank/compressor, filter, regulator, oiler....with oiler being for the tools. I'm running it : filter, oiler, air compressor (a/c compressor), regulator, oil/water seperator doing it this way so that I can oil the compressor automatically once i've got the drip feed adjusted. still need to get the hardline for between the oiler and intake of the compressor (has to be hardline cause suction will cause it to go flat otherwise), and output to regulator line. I've got all the connectors I will need. for now, I will be running tankless. when I have the accessories in the bed all set up, I will plumb the truck for a tank.

oh, grand total is $7 on a cheapo hose i can use offroad $35 on a pretty heavy duty air filter/oiler/pressure regulator system. $6 on the oil/water seperator $5 on some fittings $20 for braided lines and fittings so... $62 invested, got to buy a regulator and some more hose. that's it thus far.

got everything I need except for the pressure cutoff switch, and one 1/4x1/4 threaded adapter. here you can see how little room I have to work with Image Not Found but, on the bright side it's still easy to work with Image Not Found drilling out for 90 degree fitting Image Not Found first holes Image Not Found back of compressor Image Not Found with manifold mounted Image Not Found manifold. I have to weld plugs on the two open holes Image Not Found here's the completed setup Image Not Found air filter and oiler Image Not Found regulator, oil/water seperator, connector. haven't installed the connector/seperator yet because i'm not sure where they will be located. Image Not Found back of the compressor. as stated, i gotta weld the holes yet Image Not Found the braided line is actually water line. copper inside, stainless steel braiding. $3 each at 20" long, and they are meant to hold up to 2,000 PSI. we'll see how they work Image Not Found I do need to pick up a pressure cutoff switch before I can wire this all in. otherwise it's a pretty complete system

I'm in the process of building an on board air system for it right now...will update with pics as it comes along. so far spent (at menards) $7 on a cheapo hose i can use offroad $35 on a pretty heavy duty air filter/oiler/pressure regulator system. $6 on the oil/water seperator $5 on some fittings it's meant to run : air tank/compressor, filter, regulator, oiler....with oiler being for the tools. I'm running it : filter, oiler, air compressor (a/c compressor), regulator, oil/water seperator doing it this way so that I can oil the compressor automatically once i've got the drip feed adjusted. still need to get the hardline for between the oiler and intake of the compressor (has to be hardline cause suction will cause it to go flat otherwise), and output to regulator line. I've got all the connectors I will need. for now, I will be running tankless. when I have the accessories in the bed all set up, I will plumb the truck for a tank.

police cruiser option. pretty much you won't find it BUT you can take your indicator out and install it in a full gauge cluster. just need to cut out the hole for it on the tach

what motor do you have? that tranny WILL ABSOLUTELY NOT work with a 4.0 that said, if you do grab it all, grab the rear axle too...4.10 gears in that jeep.

we haven't done the swap yet. not for another 3 months or so anyways, people don't understand. if the firewall is even slightly different, a BFH will fix the issue quick fast and in a hurry.