JeepcoMJ

good job!

I'm DEFINITIVELY going Friday, July 18th to Sunday, July 20th so that's the date. beaterjeep, you're open that date, i'm sure wade can be. the rest of y'all should be. anyways, post up if you're gonna make it that date.

if mine is 23 spline, can we work a trade? I'm pretty hell-bent on putting a np242 into the comanche.

to make a point. you DO NOT have to swap the entire dash assembly. that's a personal preference.

87-early 90 is 21 spline input. I will know for sure i can use it once i tear it out of the cherokee.

hmm. correy's had a long input shaft on it. maybe i'll check into the output since i have 2 parted out trannies laying here...

I'm planning on putting an np242 on my comanche, which has an ax5 transmission. output is 21 spline, and the 242 DOES have a 21 spline input. BUT it's a short input shaft, and the ax5 uses the long input shaft. does anyone know a part number for a custom seal that will cover the 1/2" difference. i know there's a spacer out there but I can make one myself for cheaper...I'd rather use longer seal, and don't have the $$$ for the longer input shaft -Pat

mine had leaked previously INSIDE the cap, and at the base gasket as well. I'm not sure how much of the oil on the engine was from it, as the valve cover itself was leaking heavily...so there's no way to tell. there's a gasket at the base, and a squared off O-ring inside the distributor. the distributor can be installed one way, with the shaft being able to be set in two ways, 180 degrees apart. make sure you get it right or it will not start (oops)

well, the "new" dizzy works and doesn't leak. also new valve cover looks great and doesn't leak. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found thanks

so today I took the gas tank door into Monarch paint, and got them to color match the paint, and put it in aerosol cans for me...5 cans, will be ready on monday. $11.97 a can. I'm pulling the dent in the bedside myself, and will simply prime it, respray it, buff it, then clear it and buff it again. this will leave extra paint as well for my rockers and perhaps a set of half doors. also worked on the clutch issues today. found that the slave cylinder had become a bit corroded inside and was bypassing itself when the piston was compressed. SOOO i tore it all apart, and ordered a rebuild kit for it. i also "made" a clutch bleeder. this should be done for ALL AX5 external slave cylinders. used 1 exhaust ubolt clamp (forget what size) two long 1/4" bolts and nuts, bolt this to the clutch slave after it's all connected to the hardline in the truck, crack the bleeder a bit, tap the clutch twice, and stand and fill...gravity will bleed it Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found it was nice out so i was working on it outside mocked up my 33's on the front. Image Not Found Image Not Found good day. also got some things done on my cherokee

unfortunately, without more info like where the switch is located and where it is wired to, we can't really diagnose the problem. could be neutral safety switch, could be ignition switch is faulty. could be some other things too but, without knowing where the wires lead...we can't diagnose it.

fronts only. you can adapt rears to fit...but probably not worth it since it won't look too great, and doesn't offer much protection to the rarest part of your truck (the bed)

tore my spare apart for my 2.5 4 cylinder today, it seemed a bit stiff... Image Not Found cleaned her all up and put together, but... the "seal" up top seems a bit worn. has anyone ever rebuilt a distributor? what are the vertical tolerances of the shaft (i.e. how much should the shaft be able to move up & down) nother thing i got done was bead-blasting and then painting my 91 2.5 aluminum valve cover...the plastic ones are junk and mine's warped/cracked/leaking like a siv. Image Not Found set seal on for overnight adhering. I use Loctite 515 gasket eliminator on all gaskets I do. Image Not Found Image Not Found I think it turned out good overall...will be installing them in my cherokee in the morning along with new wires, cap, rotor, and possibly ignition coil pack. just unsure of the play on the distributor. (replacing because mine leaks)

You'll probably get both track bars, the RE and the RC. :brows: call me when you get to work on stuff tomorrow...i'll come help so we can get that xj outta the shop, and the mj in there. :P wanna tear into your axles first?...

*sigh* remove dash. drain cooling system, and AC system (it won't be able to stay charged when removed). remove A/C // heater box via 6 bolts through the firewall disconnect controls on a 4.0, remove the upper radiator support, and then remove the condensor and associated plumbing. remove a/c compressor, bracket, and pulleys remove all no-longer-essential assemblies from the new vehicle in which you will be placing the AC (i.e. remove the "same" parts from your driver) interchange. reinstall dash assembly drive. removing the dash isn't that hard...5 to 7 screws up in front of it, most are 5/16" hex heads which can be accessed via a drill and long extension. 2 15" bolts on the sides, and w more nuts holding the steering column in. also, kneeboard will need to drop out, the dash bezel will need to come off so you can pull the controls through. you don't HAVE to completely remove the dash for this swap. just move it out of the way a bit. I think it's easier to remove the dash...but i've done 7 or 8 of them so i've learned where everything goes. you may opt for the push-out-of-way approach. estimated dash removal time with power tools...1 hour first try, 35 min. second try. rest of the parts are easy if you are a mechanically inclined person. I'd remove the parts from the donor on one weekend, and install them on the driver the following weekend. remember to plug off the AC drier if you're letting it sit...you don't want it to become moist from outside air.

it's "used" from my 89 pioneer...provided that what TNT does doesn't involve that trackbar. it's got a TRE, and is a Rough Country brand. I don't trust the TRE at 6.5" of lift, so i'm going HEIM.

firewall interchange; mid-86 2.8 and 2.5 header interchange; ALL 87 4.0 and 2.5. not 86, 86 is a firewall change year only

I'm putting an adjustable RC trackbar on my comanche soon, when I lift it to 6.5". now this is kinda a newb question, but what size HEIM joint should fit, and any opinions on where to get it? I don't want to use a TRE, and I've got a nice heavy duty "drop" bracket that I will use to weld the heim mounts onto. -Pat

haha. sshhhh.

you don't have to do some beating, midway through 86 was the interchange to the 4.0 firewall, so the 4.0 may just drop in. either way, it's only like 3" off in one area

"87% of statistics are skewed to prove a point" :razz: :jump: :rotfl2:

scorp. sends emails when this stuff happens, they don't respond. i've had a few things deleted solely because i'm not a red member (they wouldn't admit that, but it is the case), and I disagree with that treatment. just because I don't have money to spend on a club doesn't mean that i'm any less intelligent or good for the jeeping community than a paying member is. and no, i won't take $40 or whatever out of my jeeping money to pay to be a member. i don't think I should have to...I'll GLADLY give Pete money to operate the site, when i have it, because there doesn't seem to be that elitest attitude here like on others (sometimes perhaps I come off with that attitude, BUT i do spend almost every waking moment working on the things...and i will put my foot in my mouth when i'm wrong. *shrug* call me out as one of these goons if you'd like...BUT i think you and I both know that they are out of line over on naxja, 7 times out of 10.

ah, progress none of this is permanently mounted...just test-fitting. and boy, does it look great :D rest of the pics are here http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/vie ... &members=1 anyways, for $35 a dakota rollbar that was previously in a comanche (after the dakota), fits perfect and my wallet can't argue. needs paint, and probably new lights (i'm not a chrome nut on this truck). i will need to get a spray-in bedliner done, or chop up the drop-in one...not sure which yet. the spare tire carrier is a removable piece with 1 wing nut and a padlock, so i can take it out and still use the bed. now, to get all this finished up and mounted in the bed, and pull the dent...hopefully Scorpio_Vette can have his guy JR spray it for me. the bottom 4" of the body will be black. any opinions?

yes. this is the one with those shackles that should probably be redesigned. other than that, great truck :D

found this on naxja....