JeepcoMJ

the upper part of the fender well will work to replace your rusted section. otherwise, the entire bedside will NOT work. the fender wells are different heights, but all you need to replace is the part above and under the top of the flare.

as far as the brake lines go, if you remove the cross pin from the carrier and pull the shafts out, you can unbolt the brake lines from the axle, and remove the backing plates for the brakes, and never even have to bleed them out. do the same on the new axle, and put your old backing plates on.

my Dad's hydraulic press has been a life saver on many different occasions. it's the reason I haven't paid for anything but sealant on an ax5 rebuild, when they only last me 1000 miles :D the engine hoist is very convenient as well. I get much more use out of that for sure

well, the rear springs are not going to cooperate. going to have to wait until it's registered and insured to drive it down to my dad's place and torch the springs out to get the front bolts unseized from the bushing. otherwise, the wiring is complete, exhaust is installed up to just behind the cat. I need a new muffler, though. probably going to go with flowmaster 40 again. looking at the carpets from the '97 and the '98, I decided that they're both too stained to use, and I just plain don't feel like cleaning either of them. so, into the garbage they went. I put floor mats in, that's good enough. driver's seat is in, gotta get the passenger side in. everything mechanical is done except for the rear driveshaft, and the 4wd linkage.

bolted up the down-pipe, alternator, put on serpentine, fixed a small electrical issue, and washed it. it's got alot more little dings and dents than the pictures show...and it's still wet in the pics. letting it dry, then removing the rear springs and putting the 4.5" ones in. once I'm done with that, I'm finishing the rear harness swap, and putting the interior back together. then on to lift the front, and put the front end back on.

that light, along with the mirrors, looks like crap...how red is your neck?

well, floors are done. spent some time learning to weld sheet metal...did fairly decent, some bad spots, some good spots, either way it's welded and done. just need to seal the seams against the frame rail. and, got the trans drop in and everything bolted up mechanically but the rear driveshaft, so I started it and drove it outside so I can wash it, lift it, and finish the interior. more progress to come tomorrow :D

it probably has to with the fact that they're illegal imigrants. just report them to immigration.

pics of how you did it? where's the filler?

thanks!. I'm not a fan of lights up top. they glare, and they're pointless. only way it will get any is if I get a set of liberty renegade roof lights.

bad floor out, new floor almost in. ran out of wire for the welder. fits almost perfect with some handy hammering and heating. engine bay pretty much buttoned up. trans will be bolted up to the crossmember finally when the floor is done..I need it out of the way for floor repair right now.

that an xj gas tank in the back?

I put a non-sealed '93 np231 in a '99 xj, and 25xxx miles later, it is not an issue. You can put it in. all you need to do is make sure they are both np231's, and clean the slip yoke on your rear driveshaft up to a polish. if your yoke is too corroded to run smooth on a seal, swap in the '95 shaft (so long as they're both auto, or both 5 speed). if worse comes to worse, swap the yokes. even the sensors are direct swap.

stripped the '98. stripped the '97 put everything from the '98 into the '97. complete conversion to 5 speed, front to rear... almost done. fixing the floor on the driver's side yet. then put interior back together, throw in the 4.5" lift, tires, find the front end body parts, and let her rip.

as long as you're not transferring titles and vins to complete cars, it's legal.

get the brown dog or M.O.R.E. motor mounts...with the factory LCA bushings. 3 years running them for me, still no issues.

theoretically, it will work. it's gonna be a headache. I'm battling with it myself for my '86...have a camaro 3800 v6 in it and I like that motor better than the 4.0, so I don't want to do a full swap.

very nice score! I'm with you on the 97+ and not being too picky...i can't get the right color fenders for my '97.

can't do it without a complete engine swap and complete wiring swap. the gauges won't work when you're done. the H.O. ecu reinterprets the readings from the engine sensors and sends them out in the proper signals for the gauge cluster. you have to basically swap the front half of the cherokee into the comanche.

... how is a blower motor and injection pump related? they're on opposite sides of the engine bay. anyways, how far off did you turn the pump? did you turn the cam gear or crank when you had the belt off? please tell me you replaced the belt...they MUST be done at every 80k miles. interference motor means EXPENSIVE repair when damaged. the timing belt cover has little tic marks for each of the 3 timing sprockets (gears, whatever). if you didn't turn it much, turn the motor until the cam and crank ones line up, then remove the cover, turn the pump the difference to get it in line, put the belt back on, and put the cover back on. the sprockets/gears each have a timing mark, which is just a dot drilled in them. oh, please go to the DIY section and post your comanche information. where are you located? pics of your truck? I've (IE my dad has) got another diesel MJ...if yours isn't one I'm already tracking, then that puts the count up to 28 of them between all 50 states. -Pat

in my ideal MJ; 3" lift, 30" tires full armor utility options (welder, OBA, bed mounted hoist)

...you overpaid by almost $2000 according to bluebook. you could have bought a running driving ready to go 97+ cherokee with 120k miles, zero rust, and driven it to the ground over the next 15 years. take Rob's advice. fix it, and sell it like it's stolen. this is a WORSE deal than the bastardized MJ you bought (and sold).

....you've had alot of major issues. they may not be related to plowing, but don't kid yourself :rotf: :yes: (all in good fun)

you don't need to swap the hood...they're the same. but you'll want to swap the fenders. here's a few pics of mine this is the album with pictures. it's all bolt-on. took me around 4 hours, but that's with dealing with my beefy front bumper.

ugh. jake. really? if it was STOCK, then you should have bought it. you just made a worse decision than to sell your mj....this is a modified car with a known bad engine design, that "supposedly" has had an engine rebuild...you have paperwork for the shop that did it? if not...then I presume the PO rebuilt it?...then I'd flip this car and make some quick cash, because he can't be too bright if he "ran it out of oil". the point of you getting a car was to get a RELIABLE, fuel efficient vehicle. :doh: sorry to be a downer here dude...but really, I wonder wtf is going on in your head sometimes. and yeah, this is coming from the guy who's ignoring advice not to lift his DD.