JeepcoMJ

Nice deal. 98 conversion?

So, as only I seem to be able to do, I got this truck back for less than I sold/traded it for about 2 months ago. Time to continue plans

I live on 7 mile rd just west of 7 mile fair...swing by one of these days, I have a binch of parts you could probably use. Doors Rockers Tailgate Etc.

The bellhousing is probably different, the np231 is probably different, the input shaft is probably different on the trans, and it probably has a different front case

dana 35. and yes, it makes your butt look big.

may as well keep on drinkin. I hate to imagine you when you're suffering withdrawals.

If either he or I had the cash for fuel, I'd bring him down a 96 low miles 2.5 that I have sittin here...

Look up above the pedals to see if the master cylinder is leaking, and look under the truck at the bellhousing to see if it has an internal or external slave. If it's internal, your slave likely failed

I figured it out... the rings need to be wrapped in duct tape!

Congrats rob! As for sliders...I have 4 or 5 of them that I don't need. Factory 3 pane. Pm if interested

91-95 motors direct interchange. still may need to swap sensors. 91-93 flexplates are not interchangeable with 94-95. so, make sure you bolt the flywheel/flexplate from your bad motor to the good one.

Solid diff covers are great. I can vouch for that...I have the "rock crusher" covers from them before they switched to "solid" brand name.

All the cool kids run after-market ones. If one has a rust issue, they could always buy one of the chrome one from Mr Gasket or whatever... eh. I don't like stock diff covers. i've had a ring gear on a d35 shoot through one, and I've smashed a d30 one (which are thick to begin with) on rocks...not when I was wheeling. I can find a decent enough reason to have them. and when I sell the jeep, I can pop the stock ones back on, and keep the aftermarkets.

the point is, anyone who is asking about diff covers, obviously considered painting theres (or should have), and figured they'd like nicer better ones, so they asked the question. paint is common sense...but if you just don't want the stock covers, you ask the question.

and it doesn't address anything about diff covers. it says "if you meant to ask about best way to PAINT diff covers, then here". the PO asked about diff covers...not what to paint them with.

what the $@%* are you smoking? DIFFerential covers.

then call him, tell him you have a buyer for it less rear axle. you get your axle, and you sell the truck if you honor that, and it's gone. that is NOT a truck to be parted out.

Thanks for the tip-off Sam. It's in montana unfortunately. Bit of a far drive. I just recently picked up a spare ax5 for a diesel (different input shafts) and I have a brand new spare motor. So I guess I'm not too worried about more of them -pat

when I originally rebuilt my '86, converted it to 4x4...I bought it a new clutch. then I put a buick 3800 in about a year and a half later. great but hard to do replacement for the POS 2.8l. clutch was fine. reused it on the 3800 flywheel, and it lasted me 4 more transmissions. it's still currently on that motor (though the motor is removed, as it blew) and still has a good 80% left. it was a centerforce stage 2 clutch. grabbed just like a quick little car's clutch would, and let me launch how I wanted it to. unfortunately, while I'd like to blame the trans issues on the clutch, I do have to place blame on myself for beating the piss out of it. all of this happened in under 18k miles.

just an FYI...advance auto can get the lock ring WITH the O-ring for around $13

the shop that put the new clutch in the '98 was really freaking retarded, and followed the chrysler TSB from 2006. they put 10w30 motor oil in it. end result, the bearings on the cross shaft, input shaft, and mid plate are all shot. it still drives...looking for another trans to rebuild so the xj will only be down for a day, if it lasts that long. if I'd known this was going to be a bad trans, the xj would have stayed an auto. that said, the lift is going in it on sunday.

well. looking at this body further, it wasn't worth fixing. so, I scrapped the chassis after pulling all MJ specific parts off of it. still have this project in the works...found a 2x4 eliminator with no rust but nothing but the cab and bed left of it. perfect for a '97+ build.

well, I'll be there with my room mate saturday morning, now. just scrapped another mj, full of all sorts of things I could have sold...if I could ever find a damn buyer. so, not gettin a booth.

that is a hoax. that truck has been around for YEARS. it's something they built for car shows....not to produce. old threads bring it up. it's called a "Gladiator" even though it looks NOTHING like the original jeep gladiator.

You take what you want out of it, and I'd paypal you $450 for the body...even after you strip what you can sell. Just need the bed, doors, fenders, cab, front axle, and front clip. Then I'd pick it up in about a month and a half. That's a good price. I'd pay a thousand for a rust free body if I found it near and didn't have to travel.