watchamakalit

Maybe I explained that wrong. I didn't want to see someone changing parts to sole a specific problem if that part isn't the cause. ie: changing a tail light bulb to stop the brakes from grinding.

Have you done any of cruisers tips? https://cruiser54.com/ Many of them are designed to address the issues your concerned with. Not saying that will fix things. Just hate to see someone change parts that aren't bad.

STROKER..........

Glad you found the problem. Now time to get building....

Well the trans is out and on the bench. The bell housing was cracked around the cps on both sides. And the fluid looked like the stuff they wash off the stage at the end of a long night at the strip club, except the trans fluid had more glitter lol. Replacement bellhousing should be here Tuesday. Trying to decide what avenue to pursue with the trans. Thinking about a new one, maybe pay to have mine rebuilt, maybe rebuild it myself......heck I don't know yet.

I'll second core 4x4 adjustable arms. Why settle for control arms that are "close"? Adjustable arms are that way for a reason. Made a big difference in ride and handling in my truck when I ditched wj arms and went adjustable. Plus all the suspension geometry can be set correctly.

I'd leave a vintage sticker too. Regardless of your politics it's a reminder of a bygone era.

Merry Christmas to all of you and yours.

just be careful cranking on the balancer bolt. seeing the shavings off the washer would be enough to scare me. I have been involved with stripped threads in a crankshaft before. Its a situation you want to avoid if at all possible.

There is a special tool for turning the motor via the flywheel teeth. They are much stronger than the balancer bolt and will allow for rotation in both directions. Other than that I would say pull the pan and see what's holding it. https://a.co/d/0kNdATC I agree it looks way too clean for stuck rings. I'd lean towards an issue in the lower end. Edit: link added

I'm pretty sure the tailight ground is the fuel pump ground. Have you tried testing power to the fuel pump on those days it won't prime? That could narrow it down to an electric problem up stream of the pump or a problem with the pump its self. Being temp dependent would make me think its the pump.

I'd be down for an update too. Show us some more of that archer porn.

More commonly referred to as a BUG shield. Sorry that's all I have to add.....

I find it intriguing that AI couldn't even get the fuel fill location correct.....

Bad fuel pump relay or ballast switch not making good connection? I wouldn't think a battery problem if the truck still cranks. Seem like it would be a fuel or spark issue. Could it be a coil going bad?

I find if you just turn the radio up......

I've never been into a np transfer case, but I have homebrew twinsticked a couple of d300's years ago. Part of the twinstick job was removing a very similar pill to allow independent movement of the shift rails. This allowed for control of the front and rear out put separate from each other. That said I'm not sure it will work the same for the np case due to a single shift point and not 2 separate shift rails. I would be very apprehensive about leaving that pill out. The homebrew twin sticks had an issue with the concept that would allow an inept user to put the case in high and low gear range for the opposite axles. This resulted in rapid tcase disassembly, usually at unwanted moments.

Aren't there 2 different lengths of the screws pictured? Or are the longer versions the grille screws? Working off foggy memory.

Sounds like I need to look into Luk. Fortunately my ax is external slave which has been recently replaced.

Thanks for all the responses. Any suggestions for a good clutch kit? I don't wheel the truck but it will see some trailer pulling, but mostly just street driving.

A little back story is necessary. I bought my ax15 used out of a 96? wrangler (was a long time ago before I learned to write things down). It had an occasional grind going into 4th. The seller was open and honest about it and said it had been doing it for a while with no other issues. The price reflected the issue and I purchased it knowing it would eventually need a rebuild. Well the time has come the grind has not changed and it will shift smooth if you allow the engine to slow between shifts. It also has begun to pop out of 3rd upon clutch release. I am beginning the process of collecting parts and info for a rebuild. From what I have read I want to go with the Crown or transparts rebuild kits as they seem to be the most complete. Has anyone else rebuilt their ax15? Any suggestions or common issues I need to be on the lookout for? I also plan on a clutch replacement while I am in there. Suggestions on the best clutch? I don't wheel my truck, it mostly sees street miles with a good bit of firewood hauling, but honestly she is becoming more of a shop queen lately. lol Planning to rebuild the 231 while its out also. Suggestions on a kit for it? Anything in particular I need to watch in there?

Did you have the flywheel resurfaced when you changed the clutch?

Good one Pete. I'd like to add blue "disposable" shop towels. I keep a roll in each vehicle and several in the shop. They are like a cloth paper towel. Wonderful to have on hand for everything from an oil check to a good nose blowing. Lol

Just an fyi mj odometers can be changed without removal from the cluster. Meaning you can make the replacement cluster match the mileage of the old.