watchamakalit

Bad fuel pump relay or ballast switch not making good connection? I wouldn't think a battery problem if the truck still cranks. Seem like it would be a fuel or spark issue. Could it be a coil going bad?

I find if you just turn the radio up......

I've never been into a np transfer case, but I have homebrew twinsticked a couple of d300's years ago. Part of the twinstick job was removing a very similar pill to allow independent movement of the shift rails. This allowed for control of the front and rear out put separate from each other. That said I'm not sure it will work the same for the np case due to a single shift point and not 2 separate shift rails. I would be very apprehensive about leaving that pill out. The homebrew twin sticks had an issue with the concept that would allow an inept user to put the case in high and low gear range for the opposite axles. This resulted in rapid tcase disassembly, usually at unwanted moments.

Aren't there 2 different lengths of the screws pictured? Or are the longer versions the grille screws? Working off foggy memory.

Sounds like I need to look into Luk. Fortunately my ax is external slave which has been recently replaced.

Thanks for all the responses. Any suggestions for a good clutch kit? I don't wheel the truck but it will see some trailer pulling, but mostly just street driving.

A little back story is necessary. I bought my ax15 used out of a 96? wrangler (was a long time ago before I learned to write things down). It had an occasional grind going into 4th. The seller was open and honest about it and said it had been doing it for a while with no other issues. The price reflected the issue and I purchased it knowing it would eventually need a rebuild. Well the time has come the grind has not changed and it will shift smooth if you allow the engine to slow between shifts. It also has begun to pop out of 3rd upon clutch release. I am beginning the process of collecting parts and info for a rebuild. From what I have read I want to go with the Crown or transparts rebuild kits as they seem to be the most complete. Has anyone else rebuilt their ax15? Any suggestions or common issues I need to be on the lookout for? I also plan on a clutch replacement while I am in there. Suggestions on the best clutch? I don't wheel my truck, it mostly sees street miles with a good bit of firewood hauling, but honestly she is becoming more of a shop queen lately. lol Planning to rebuild the 231 while its out also. Suggestions on a kit for it? Anything in particular I need to watch in there?

Did you have the flywheel resurfaced when you changed the clutch?

Good one Pete. I'd like to add blue "disposable" shop towels. I keep a roll in each vehicle and several in the shop. They are like a cloth paper towel. Wonderful to have on hand for everything from an oil check to a good nose blowing. Lol

Just an fyi mj odometers can be changed without removal from the cluster. Meaning you can make the replacement cluster match the mileage of the old.

I took am in the category of overloading my mj on alloy wheels without issue.

It will slow the process but our climate is not steel friendly. Coatings exist but nothing is fool proof other than garage kept except for the nicest summer days.

After pulling the relay and testing jumping the terminals does nothing. I even confirmed to make sure I had power at d1-5. Edit: tested with both sets of plugs neither of which made any difference

Did you try your setup before the drop brackets? I didn't have any trouble obtaining correct geometry without them on mine. The core adjustables have a drop built into them.

The aluminum will disapate the heat faster and won't melt. I have seen EXPERIENCED torch users melt steel fasteners out of aluminum housings without damage to the aluminum.

My mj was a daily driver, even after the lift. It is stiffer than my old factory suspension but definitely not too harsh to drive. I was pleased with it. It rides like a truck not a Cadillac is about the best I can explain it.

I chose to run core 4x4 adjustable arms with my 4.5 up front. They weren't terribly priced and allowed me to obtain correct geometry.

Key on or off for the test? After ac clutch relay removal jumper the same posts?

I should have just messaged you to begin with. Lol. Any clue as to what the other set of plugs would be?

So even though my ac has no charge and doesn't do ac things, the fan should still operate when the dash selector indicates a need for air? I know the fan itself is good and works when jumped with power.

Well I don't know if I hooked up the correct set but the rem unit is reading water temp. I am assuming (yes I know what that means) I got the right ones. Any way to test the fan other than wait for it to get warm?

Back history first. 88XJ auto engine harness swap. Never had any cooling issues since I bought it. I have never seen the electric fan come on. This started with an O2 sensor change to replace a non responsive factory unit. After r&r of the exhaust manifold to repair a buggered up thread for the O2 sensor, I come across this tucked away in the corner. Which set is the fan and coolant temp sensor and what are the others? One set comes from the large loom the other from the small. Also any ideas on what the red wire wired to the red with black trace in the small harness would be about?

I had the same issue with my race installer from Amazon. I have previously installed races with a drift and hammer. Precision fit between the race and driver are not necessary. The important part is not damaging the bearing contact surface and be sure it's seated. Try flipping the cup piece on the driver and see if the back side is a closer match the the race size.

From my limited understanding of plumbing, there's probably not much at all going on. 😂