Minuit

On a serious note, one of my biggest MJ regrets is selling one of those handbrake delete panels for what ended up being about $20 after shipping.

OTC stuff has never done me wrong. My jackstands are a mishmash of brands. The big ones that I use with my MJ are AC Delco I think. I bought them because they have large feet on the bottom to distribute the weight on the ground. Unless they fail and kill you, I've always just figured a jackstand is pretty much a jackstand My habit has always been to give the vehicle a nice shove (and I don't mean just a little push, a shove) before putting anything I care about under it.

I have the 91 FSM on PDF ready to go. I'll throw it up on my Drive or something soon.

With any luck, I'll have my dangerous activities privileges reinstated by then.

Why does almost every original manual regulator I touch take so much force to roll up that I'm concerned about breaking the handle off in my hand, and yet I can do the same thing in my 89 (with original regulators, cleaned and lubed several months ago) with two fingers? If that felt lining works so well, why do so many people need to replace them due to stripped out sections in the worm gear assembly? That's actually why my 91 has power windows - I'd already stripped out a passenger side and was well on my way to stripping out the driver side when I decided I had had enough. They weren't lubed from the factory, but the factory also gave us wonders like the C101 connector. Here is my benchmark for a good running window regulator - this is the one from my 91, freshly cleaned and lubed, key on engine off. That regulator is 26 years old and had 200k on it before I yanked it out of the junkyard and put it in my truck a couple of years ago. It's considerably faster with the engine running. Compared to most other cars, new and old, with power windows, this is well within the average for the vehicles I've seen. Not counting stuff like big rigs with air powered windows - those are stupid fast. This also assumes that you're getting battery voltage at the regulator under load - backprobe the connector with it plugged in, operate the regulator in both directions, and see if you are. The current has a long path to travel from battery to window motor, and there are plenty of opportunities for voltage drop. after.mp4

I would consider anywhere between 195 and 210 to be acceptable under most circumstances. A little higher is probably fine if it's an extremely hot day or if going up long hills or other high engine load situations. A larger radiator will make the temperature more stable. Thermostat for a 4.0 is 195. Do not use any other temperature thermostat. The factory Renix cooling fan comes on if the A/C compressor is on or coolant temperature is 190 degrees F... in the cold side of the radiator. Too late at that point. If you have factory gauges, use MOPAR sending units only. In that case, the gauge needle should be somewhere on top of the "2" in "210" during all normal driving. Aftermarket sending units tend to result in an unreliable or inconsistent gauge. IR temperature gun on the thermostat housing or upper radiator hose near thermostat housing.

I could do one of my typical savage tear-downs on this truck but there's really no point. The exhaust pipe hanging down like a decapitated horse's head kinda sets the tone of this one. That, combined with the ad that's written like the guy failed third grade (if he can't spell right in a craigslist ad, what makes you think he has any attention to detail anywhere else?) and that adds up to quite possibly the hardest pass out of any of these high dollar trucks I've seen. Also, why is it so damn hard to take at least one picture of the interior? There's no picture, so I'll just use my imagination. My imagination is probably much worse than any possible reality.

Mine are almost that fast with the standard wiring. When I installed the wiring, I cleaned every connection. What really made a difference was cleaning and lubricating the "snake" on each regulator as well as making sure the window is not binding on the weatherstripping (generally, they don't). As far as I'm concerned, 90% or more of the "slow/stiff window regulator" complaints are from people who have not done this. I do not think running a 12V motor on 19V would be a good idea long-term and I am generally against such "fixes" I did the same thing to my 89's manual regulators when I swapped the doors. That made the windows very easy to roll up and down by hand, where they were very stiff beforehand. As I understand it, the NAXJA power lock fix essentially turns the Renix setup into the 91+ setup. The locks on my truck using 91 wiring are about as energetic as you'd want power locks to be. Another benefit for @youngfred using 1991 or 1992 wiring - the 1991 FSM wiring diagram will be correct. That's something that a LOT of people overlook right up until they have a problem to diagnose. @youngfred - Starting in either 1993 or 1994, the power lock wiring was moved to the dash harness "relay center" which isn't really present on a 91 or 92. The cross body harness from 1991 until the introduction of the "relay center" makes for an almost plug and play installation of power windows and locks. The relays for that harness live under the passenger side kick panel, and the 4-door XJs have the harness separated into front and rear halves. For an MJ, you only need the front half that runs under the carpet in the front, and plugs into the fusebox and door harnesses. The door harnesses I used for my conversion match your bottom picture, and I believe they are compatible 1991-1996.

At the risk of turning The Pub into "Minuit's medical drama"... time to set the clock back to 6 months from today. It would seem that physical activity is one of the triggers. Earlier today, I had my first seizure since being put on meds. I'd been feeling "foggy" for the past few days and my typical solution to that has been to do a bodyweight exercise routine. I wasn't sleep deprived either. As expected, I felt better afterward and my energy level seemed to take a bump up. Unfortunately, a couple of hours later I woke up with my parents standing over me and a very worried dog in my face. My day job prior to the first event has a significant element of physical activity. Lots of walking and occasional heavy lifting. It's helped me get in the best shape I've ever been in, but if I'm right I may be looking at a career change once this is all over. Since you all seemed interested in how things were turning out, I felt like you deserved an update.

I wouldn't bother with building your own harness. Too much work when a perfectly adequate OEM option exists. My 2 cents - find a 91, 92 or maybe 93 cross-body harness and do it with OEM parts. If you have access to the FSM wiring diagram, there is very little work (a couple of wires on the driver's door switch panel, and power/ground) needed to adapt it to an MJ. 2-door or 4-door. You can also get power mirrors by plugging in a fuse tap and a switch. That's the entirety of the 91-92 front power accessory circuit, and yes I did power it up disembodied on my garage floor before I put it in my truck. All it needs is 12V and a ground. I got mine from a 4-door XJ but a 2-door is the same basic harness. Why those years? The Renix era are infamous for very sluggish power lock operation and have a different plug for the window regulators. The later HO years have the lock relay circuit integrated into the dash harness. The 91 and 92 harness is stand-alone and plugs into the fuse box via circuit breakers for power. I wouldn't worry about relays for the windows. If the regulators are cleaned they work just fine.

WRONG! I'm the most bestest at numbers. Everyone's talking about how good my numbers are, the very best.

Sometimes my non-reversible Gearwrenches get locked up and won't turn in either direction. A smack to something solid gets them working every time. Otherwise, no problems and I've used them a bunch. An indispensable tool for sure.

As a proud owner of two 7 8-slot equipped trucks, I will happily admit that I prefer the 10-slot. The 21 slot looks good on certain colors of truck too, but the 10 slot is the winner.

I find that some of the stylistic choices made in this project are not to my taste.

Shame to see one of the very few silver '91s rusting in a field like that.

Norseman drill bits cut like butter when new and stay that way for a long time if oiled and not oversped. Chicago Latrobe is another good choice, and when I brought personal drill bits onto a job it was one of those brands. Critical to this is not letting other people use your expensive drill bits. I die a little inside every time I see someone roast a nice drill bit with very little feed pressure at full speed in a hand drill. I prefer the ones with the three flats on the shank, with the caveat that the drill must be braced tightly. They will not slip in the chuck and will break your wrist if you let them. My experience with store brand bits has been that DeWalt are probably the best. Milwaukee bits start off with a really aggressive edge but the ones I used didn't hold their edge for as long as I would have expected. I have bad luck with the cheaper store brands. I got a cheap set of Skil bits a while ago and most of the smaller ones were bent right out of the box and weren't too sharp to begin with. That index got marked "for wood use only" For most uses I prefer mechanic length split point bits because they will stay on target without a deep center punch or pilot hole. Plain HSS is what I use, but I don't work with anything hard very often. All of this would apply to Cobalt bits as well.

Some type of GM cap ended up being the solution to that. 90s full-size truck maybe?

Nah, those are just ugly parts store covers over the factory wheels. One of them is missing and the factory wheel can be seen underneath.

Spectra CU1193. No fitment problems, no changes to the truck needed (other than a recovery bottle, and I guess the factory Renix bottle could even be reused), no worries. I like to be different, so I used a Renix-era 2.5L overflow bottle that mounts where the ECU is on the HO Jeeps. It came with the bung for the fan switch. @Pete M can attest to this - he watched me install it. Performance is much better in that the cooling system actually functions now. Minor temperature fluctuations after coming to a stop, but I expect this of a single core radiator.

Depending on floor condition, that'd make a good buy for someone who wants a very original looking 91. I do see a big dent on the cab behind the passenger door, but that's probably poppable from the inside. Options on this one will be 4.0L, automatic transmission, A/C, carpet, cassette radio (may or may not have rear speakers), remote mirrors, and what the brochure calls "styled argent" wheels over the basic "rally" wheels. Lots of options for a 91 SporTruck. Basic white paintjob is odd but the most common color for a '91 SporTruck. Whoever configured my truck paid extra for metallic paint, but no radio, crappy door mounted mirrors and no carpet The coolant bottle looks a little red. Could be Dexcool compatible coolant or just well past time for a flush. Radio no worky might be caused by the infamous RX-171 Killer Solder Joint that has killed at least seven of these radios that I have personally seen. If the LCD digits are lightly visible by shining a flashlight into the display but there's no sound or reception, that's what it is. Reflow of solder joints on the relay board will make the radio come back to life in that case.

Believe it or not, I've actually gotten better at this since my college days, but here's my desk right now. You don't wanna know how many Jeep parts and various other "household decorations" I have sitting around that respectable company would object to. There was about two weeks a few years ago where I had 4 XJ bucket seats in varying conditions spread out in the living room of my old apartment. Nobody that spent any amount of time around me thought it was out of character.

That looks... vaguely like an XJ power window reg, but none that I've seen have ever looked like that. Every one of them I've personally taken out of an XJ (or MJ) have looked just like your original. Older ones were held in with rivets and newer ones are held in with bolts, but still the same shape. I wonder if that's actually for a 97+ Jeep, because it's about the right shape but totally wrong. The pre-1991 motors used different connectors. I don't know if you'd be able to find a new replacement using your jeep's connector. They are functionally identical besides the connectors. For what it's worth, my preference for replacements if mine were to fail would be to buy a junkyard one, clean the track out and lubricate it. I have lubricated '94 motors in my '91 that I converted to have power windows. The windows go up and down plenty fast and have been noise-free and reliable for years now. Even with 25 years of use on them, they're still faster to go up and down than the NOS ones I have stashed for just in case. Prototype window regulator writeup that I'm writing on the spot for this thread - will complete later. May be missing pictures. If anyone complains about the factory window regulators either being hard to roll up and down (manual) or slow (power) my assumption is that they haven't done this and need to. The manual window regulators are very easy to roll up or down and are plenty fast if they have been serviced, which should be done at least once in the vehicle's life or whenever they feel stiff or slower than normal. This is what a "good" snake looks like. These are on my '94 OEM regulators that were more than 20 years old when I ripped them out of the junkyard and put them into my '91 years ago. The motor (or window crank handle) is connected to a gear which meshes with the "snake" (which is just a flexible worm gear) and depending on the direction of rotation, runs the window either up or down. If the channel of this snake is obstructed by corrosion, hardened lubricant, or dirt OR the space the snake travels in is obstructed, there will be too much resistance, and eventually something (either the motor or the worm-drive "snake") will fail and the regulator will develop a dead spot. The fix to this is very simple: if the window is still able to roll up and down the entire way without skipping teeth, and is just slow or stiff, the "snake" and the channel it rides in just needs to be cleaned out and lubricated. Removing the regulator can be a pain in the @$$, but once it's out, nothing you need to do is difficult. Attached to the end of the snake's channel is a length of hose which is almost certainly hard as a rock by now. This is important, as it gives the "snake" a safe place to retract into when the window is fully rolled up and keeps it straight and routed correctly. On any regulator I service, I just cut it off and replace it with an equal length of new hose after I have cleaned the snake. I don't know what size it is off of the top of my head. When I did this on my trucks, I had plenty of fuel hose in the correct size left from a previous project so that was what I used. Don't forget to transfer the plastic P-clips that fit over the hose and snap to the bottom of the door frame to keep the hose routed correctly. If they are broken or not present, replace them. Removing the hose will give you better access to the snake to clean it. Rolling the window up all of the way with the hose removed will give you full access to the part of the snake where the gears mesh, which is the most important part. If there is crud present in the snake, clean it thoroughly with your choice of solvent. Try not to use anything too aggressive, as you don't want the "bristles" on the snake to come off. Once the snake and the path it rides in is as clean as possible, lubricate thoroughly. I used white lithium grease, but a relatively thick waterproof grease is likely to be a better option. After lubricating the regulator, before putting it back together make sure to run it up and down several times either by hand or using a 12V battery connected to the motor in alternating polarity. You should notice an immediate change in the speed of the regulator. If not, continue lubricating the snake and exercising the regulator. If you have rattles in your door, the power window motors are a common source. This is an excellent time to add some closed-cell foam tape to the top "arch" of the regulator and to the motor housing to prevent it from rattling. The factory installed crappy foam and jute padding in these places, but it's probably gone by now. This process has fixed every manual and power window regulator I have come across that is still able to roll up and down the entire way. If the gears are stripped, I would personally find a replacement and perform this procedure to it before installing it. Here is a before and after of a very badly fouled regulator on my '91. This test was done with the engine off. The regulators are considerably faster if the engine is running thanks to the higher voltage. before.mp4 After: after.mp4

Cherokee power window regulators should fit in an MJ's door no problem. Can you describe the problem with fitment? Also, what's wrong with the regulator you took out? If it was just slow, they can be cleaned easily.

I call it, depending on how official I feel, either the "sideways triangle floor thing" or the "transverse floor brace" It's spot welded to the uniframe rail through the floor pan around the edge in several places. I strongly doubt you can get a new one, but you should look under it if you haven't to see if there is rust hiding underneath.

Send it back. Unacceptable and I would never in a million years want to install a shipping damaged radiator on my vehicle.