Minuit

Side note: the Eagle unit gives you no indication of the volume, balance, or fade. I was expecting there to be a little bar on the equalizer at least telling you what the volume is set to, but nope. I thought this was going to be a problem for my upcoming secret project (tm) but nope, that's working as intended.

This thread got stickied? Hmm, I didn't even notice until now. Anyway - for those who have not been keeping up and are only popping in to ask questions or browse through the pretty pictures: From September until April, I had to suspend working in basically anything having to do with these radios due to a very busy - too busy - work schedule. In April I had a medical event that left me "disabled" and unable to work that job for what might end up being forever, so it's back to radios for now. For my first trick, I have managed to locate another hen's tooth: Remember the Eagle Premier head unit I teased a while back? I found the full unit, and fully working too - down to all of the light bulbs. And there's a lot of light bulbs in this thing. Weighing several pounds, fused at 10 amps, and almost maxing out my 3A bench power supply at listening volume, this was essentially the ultimate in Mitsubishi's line of car radios. For 1988, this radio has the best of everything. Featuring a 7-band graphic equalizer, a very fancy (and very effective) AM-FM tuner with some special functions including National Semiconductor's Dynamic Noise Reduction, AM stereo, and station scanning (the only radio of this line to have it). They also managed to shoehorn a fully motorized, computer controlled tape deck with Dolby-B, track searching, and auto reverse into this. It's the same deck as the RX-170 through RX-173. The top unit is not capable of driving speakers on its own - the amplification stage is located in the equalizer. The top unit fits into the same footprint as a standard Jeep radio. The bottom equalizer/amplifier has a special bracket attaching it to the main unit. Power output is modest but typical of the era, rated at 9 watts per channel (36W total) into 8 ohm speakers at 10% THD, and roughly double that into 4 ohm speakers, but heat would likely become a major concern. Construction wise, it's no slouch either. All circuit boards are double-sided with plated through holes, conformally coated, and the typically high quality of components used in all of these Mitsubishi-built radios. I'd compare the older ones to being built like an old home audio receiver. This one is built like a piece of military issue test equipment. It must have cost an absolute fortune to make, and based on some factory pricing information, that cost was definitely passed onto the customer. It actually sounds really good, and the onboard equalizer allows you to dial in the sound you like. It still wouldn't be able to keep up with road and wind noise of your typical Jeep at highway speed though. If you're interested in some gritty details, there's a teardown of a non-working one of these on Allpar here: https://www.allpar.com/stereo/eagle-premier-stereo/default.html The guy doing the teardown calls it the "most sophisticated 1980s head unit combo I have ever seen in any Chrysler product" - I don't know about that, but there are a ton of parts to this. I do have full service documentation for this system if you do happen to own an Eagle Premier with one of these. This isn't the only new thing I have to show off either. More coming later.

Man, good to know it was done by a dealer so it's good to go. And they only managed to lose one of the four screws for the lens. That really soothes my worries.

This used to be the driver seat in my '89. The fabric wasn't nice enough to reuse (and it was the wrong color anyway) but way too nice to throw out, so I took the seat apart, washed the covers, and put the seat back together using a 4DR XJ seat frame on the base for my old workbench chair. The back holes on the frame line up literally perfectly with the back holes on the office chair base. The front holes don't, but there's a hole in the middle of the seat frame already drilled. All I needed to do to bolt it up is drill a matching hole in the office chair base and put it together with nuts and bolts. It makes for a very comfortable office chair, even when sitting in it for a long time. The seat is mounted nosed-up, which may not be to everyone's taste but that's easy enough to fix by elongating the mounting holes a little bit - or by mounting the seat on a "rocker" base from an older XJ. You can also recline the seat. I'll put together a more complete writeup of this at some point, because I took a lot of pics doing it. It also fits the theme of my radio lab

86 seats will be fine. 95 and newer seats will not fit without considerable modification. Just so it's clear, 1984-1994 seats will bolt right up to a proper set of MJ seat brackets, or to a set of bench seat brackets modified to fit. Or to a standard office chair frame after drilling a single hole, as it turns out.

94 or older.

Man, I forget that Tapatalk is even still a thing. CC is fortunate enough to have a pretty good mobile site. Never given me any trouble.

I'm just poking fun Every MJ and XJ I have ever laid eyes on has had the grab handle for the front passenger. I don't remember seeing it ever being listed as optional in any of the brochures. Wouldn't surprise me if some 1984 XJs rolled off the line without one. I've seen weirder stuff happen on production lines.

Is this something that we can attribute to "the first year XJs were janky and AMC didn't know what they were doing yet?" - kind of like the bucket seats without headrests, one-year interior colors, carbed 2.5L, and other fun 1984 and 1985 oddities?

Updated my previous post with some info that comes from catalogs and procuring some more original parts from various years of tan interior.

I can't even begin to count how many $3 "small brackets" I've bought because the clerk had no idea what the part was and didn't bother asking. I used to rattle off the name of each part as I put it on the counter, but I learned to keep quiet real quick

Sadly it looks discontinued, but you might have some luck finding NOS somewhere. That being said, it shouldn't be that bad of a part to have made by a good exhaust shop if you can give them a donor part.

Walker 44914 is the number I come up with for the front pipe. I believe that's from the manifold to the converter.

If you're curious, the proper procedure to bleed the air out of the lines is to jack the front of the truck up (so there's no weight on the front wheels) and turn the wheel back and forth over and over again. I find that unhooking the return hose for just a second helps. The system should self bleed with use. Just check the fluid every so often, as you'll probably need to add some once the air is gone from the system. Just don't fill it up to the top - the cap is also a dipstick. Ask me how I know. The mechanic should have made sure it was ok before handing it back to you, but in his defense it is a huge pain in the @$$ to completely bleed a power steering system, especially after unhooking everything, and it will eventually bleed itself after driving for a while as long as the system doesn't run low again.

Damn. Rest in peace my friend. Truly a great member of this community. I had the privilege of exchanging lots of messages with him and doing business on several occasions. Best wishes to his family and friends. Hopefully the MJ's new owner will hang around here.

My MJ has power mirrors! And everything else. The control is identical to a Cherokee - in the center console to the left of where the handbrake would be in the XJ.

That tick is what I'm talking about. And mileage has very little to do with it. The '89 I mentioned has roughly 140k on it and the engine is completely shot. Change the oil filter.

You say this started after an oil change. Take that Fram filter off and put it in the dumpster where it belongs. Anything but Fram for oil filters. Then go from there. There are multiple accounts on this very forum of sudden low oil pressure on otherwise healthy engines attributed to Fram oil filters. If that doesn't fix it... Minimum spec or not, If I ever saw less than 20 psi oil pressure on a 4.0 I'd be planning my next move. A healthy 4.0 should put up at least 25-30 at hot idle. Even a worn out engine should have no trouble getting above 40 from a cold start. My 91 with 189k bottoms out at 35 psi with the oil fully warmed up, verified by mechanical gauge. The factory gauge is relatively accurate if and only if all connections are clean, the sensor is an OEM unit, and there is no sealing compound on the threads for the sensor. If in doubt, verify with a known-good mechanical gauge. Preferably not one rented from a parts store. As for your sound clip, that's exactly what my '89 with a completely shot bottom end sounds like once it's warmed up (with a lot more random knocks and clacks than yours has). The oil pressure gauge on it rests on "0" once fully warm.

Post your VIN up here. We have some people here that have access to Chrysler's VIN database that actually know what they're looking at.

Ignition type changed in 91. You may be able to swap a 90 down ignition cylinder into a 91 or newer column, but I don't think the older columns have the provisions for the newer ignition cylinder. Old style are retained by a screw. New style are retained by a spring loaded bar.

While we're on the subject of history, I don't think anyone here has posted Mark Felton Productions:

The LSV is ziptied in the "correct" position which allows normal rear braking pressure - as long as the LSV isn't broken. Start with completely bleeding and flushing the entire brake circuit, inspect all components, and replace if necessary. Chances are that needs to be done anyway. If that doesn't seem to help, look to the rear drum brakes. In cars with rear drum brakes, them being properly adjusted and functional has a huge effect on how the pedal feels.

The automatics could either have the shifter on the floor or on the column depending on options. Floor shifters are usually seen with bucket seats and the column shifters always (if I remember right) came with a bench seat.

Any way you can get in touch with me. PM on CC, post in this thread, Facebook message, email, contact form on site, carrier pigeon, etc. Anything that gets across the message "add me to the list" is plenty. Even if you don't know what you want yet. People adding themselves to the list at this time will have enough time to decide what they would like.