Minuit

Hey guys, my gas tank tried to drop itself the other day and I'm wondering if I have the straps in the right position. Anyone got a pic of a relatively clean short bed tank (mounted in the truck) to compare mine with? Thanks :cheers:

It seems like basic stuff but I want to make sure: My truck has never been an off-road truck and never will be. This isn't really considered wheeling, is it?

Brake line size is 3/16" IIRC. The OEM flare is a double flare. The head size on my fittings was 3/8", but I don't think that's what you're looking for.

Is this it? http://www.dualpurposetn.com/Trail_Details.html

Keep in mind that only 2WD trucks had rotors with this type of bearing. It's called a captive rotor. 4WD trucks have unit bearings.

:agree: Although if it's going to stay it needs to be made clear somehow that it isn't a search bar and that you should make a thread for your questions.

At first I wasn't quite sure but I love the way the front end looks on that truck. The interior is definitely growing on me too. Keep it up. :thumbsup:

I can't think of any plans for this weekend either. Let's do it.

I think we can all agree that November 2013 was the best. :yes:

:yeah that: Beautiful MJ. Not very often you see shortbeds with a roll bar. Can't wait to see more of this one.

:( it seems like the fine upstanding human being that did this worked it over pretty good. I'm not going to judge if it's repairable or not, but what I will say is that some people here have fixed up trucks with much more damage. You are correct though, you'll need a pretty clean donor and/or fab skills to get the parts you'll need.

Time for a little update. This morning, I took the MJ to a different, much better shop (that does have the aforementioned Hunter wheel balancer) for an alignment (which it needed badly) and tire balancing. The alignment is great now and the steering feels much better, but the shaking at speed continues. This leads me to believe it's a driveshaft/U-joint issue. Any suggestions?

Tennessee Tech in Cookeville :thumbsup: This has definitely been a learning process. At the beginning of this build I knew exactly nothing about this kind of work, and reading back through the first chapters it definitely shows.

I had a similar issue with random shut-offs. Mine never backfired but it always seemed to start right up after cycling the key. I replaced the ignition coil and it never did it again.

Don't buy from factorychryslerparts. They're known to be a scam. A quick search through all of the other Jeep forums will confirm this. They have a good catalog, though.

:agree: An '89 SporTruck probably has the Dana 35 but with Jeeps of this era nothing is certain. You'll get the right answer with a picture of the differential cover.

:agree: That's good advice. My truck is definitely an outlier in regards to rust. I'm pretty sure I had a lot easier time with the control arm bolts than most will. Glad I can be an inspiration :cheers:

:agree: As disrespectful and trashy :D as it is to use another person's vehicle as a garbage disposal, it's still better than dumping it on the side of the road. I had plenty of stuff thrown into my bed - I parked at the very front of a high school parking lot. Go figure.

:popcorn:

That site is a scam as many people have reported. Don't buy or attempt to buy from them.

Not sure where this really fits... I was going to put it in Tech but this isn't really a technical question. :dunno: This is mostly aimed at the 4.0/5speed crowd, but any input is welcome. Eventually, I'm going to convert my truck to 4x4, and since that means switching transmissions, I'm considering doing an AX-15 swap. I'd greatly prefer to have a manual truck, but I've never driven an XJ or MJ with a manual. What are they like? Do they have ridiculous shift throws like older fullsize trucks? How does a manual MJ compare to an automatic one? I realize this is a really subjective question, but I'd like to have as much information as possible if I'm going to consider doing this. Thanks y'all. :thumbsup:

What's the quality like on that? It doesn't look as heavy as the stock one.

The tachomoeter will work, but the temperature and oil pressure gauges won't. The idiot light senders for those are simple ON/OFF switches. You need to change the sensors to the ones for gauges, which aren't switches but variable resistance senders. No wiring is needed, just swap the sensors. Yeah, forgot about that, sorry. Guess that's what posting at 11pm gets you.

The new gauge cluster will plug right in and work as it should if the cluster is functioning properly. Make a build thread and post pics and show us the FSJ too!

What bolt-ons did you have, if you don't mind me asking?