Minuit

Clean 91s and 92s seem like they're starting to go up in value pretty quickly by now. There's still deals out there, though - but there are less MJs in the world each day and what you're looking for is basically what everyone wants - the best of the breed.

You'll get to eventually :yes: Hopefully we can get something together with the rest of the TN crew too. :cheers: (P.S. I lost your number when my phone died... could you text me?)

It may be purdy (and golly it is) but "not on the road since 2002" scares me. I'd like to see some photos of the undercarriage.

Factory spec is +7.5 deg. The FSM states that acceptable range is between +7 deg. and +8 deg. Keep in mind that these are for stock trucks.

What is WJ? I have a 90 also and any brake improvement would be welcome.If it is an easy swap I'm headin to Pick-A Part.Can you elaborate? 1999-2004 Grand Cherokee. The first round one. A Cherokee from 1995 or 1996 will have a similar brake setup that's almost a direct swap to your '90. There's a number of good threads on it in the "DIY project writeups" section.

You bet. All of my efforts since I started this project have been geared towards preserving the truck and its history while improving it and making it uniquely mine. This one's a restoration for sure.

My record keeping is pretty fuzzy before the beginning of 2014, but at a guess I would say $3000 not including fuel since the beginning up to now. About $800 in parts are currently waiting to be installed and about $300 went into fixing the smashed in front end. I'm now keeping up with all non-fuel costs down to the cent. Fuelly tells me that gas over the time I've had the truck adds up to $1,577.76. Thanks for reading! :cheers:

Technical Difficulty: Early May 2014 I was going to have a small 2-week update with some pictures, but my phone decided that it had enough of life and wiped itself, taking with it about 1,700 pictures going all the way back to late 2011, all of my contacts, and everything else. The good news? My new phone takes much better pictures. This weekend, I changed my shocks. I bought Monroe Sensatrac shocks, and got the load leveler ones for the back. The ride is a little bit better - nothing drastic, but I wasn't expecting much change there. One unexpected benefit is that the helper springs on the rear shocks seem to have very slightly firmed up the handling. Once again, no big difference but it seems like it's there. Soon enough, the undercarriage will be de-rustified. I haven't done any proper wrench turning in a while so it felt good to get back to getting dirty. Since I'm doing all of my work hereafter in a garage, I needed a bigger jack to lift the MJ on a level surface. The black one is what I was using, with 13-3/4 in. of height. I only got away with this because my old gravel driveway had several high spots. The big green jack weighs about 50 lbs and extends to 21'' - plenty to get the tires off the ground from the frame. Also pictured: a catapult me and some friends built. While I had the front completely off the ground to replace shocks, I also checked my front end. All bushings, mountings and tie rod ends are tight, but my wheel bearings are conclusively screwed. I also found out that I have a 24mm sway bar - hopefully to be replaced by a 28mm unit before long. There's a large pile of parts sitting in the garage waiting to be installed, and more will likely come. Total Expenditures since January 2014: $2,102.07 :eek: Junkyard: $105 total Oil filter adapter stuff: $8 Upper radiator hose: $15 Headlights: $30 eBay: $15 Tires: $675 Windshield: $210 Online orders: $985 Junkyard Parts: Door panels: 1988 Jeep Cherokee Limited Front bumper guards: 1992 Jeep Cherokee Sport Windshield wiper motor: 1998 Jeep Cherokee Sport Tailgate handle: 1989 Jeep Comanche Mud flaps: 1987 Jeep Comanche Maintenance Status: Last oil change: 6qt generic 10W-30, 150,580, next change will be Rotella T6 or similar Had to go back to ethanol gas due to lack of funds. Odometer: 151,892

My D35 has been making an assortment of noises ever since I've had it, and they're beginning to worry me. Although I don't think any of them have gotten appreciably worse in the 7,000 miles I've owned my MJ, I want to fix any and all trouble now before it becomes major. At roughly 50-58 mph there is a high pitched whining/howling sound coming from the rear. After roughly 58 mph, the noise becomes completely indiscernible from the cab. The sound happens when on and off the gas, but when I let off it stops for about half a second. Everything I've read points to the pinion bearings. The sound varies in volume seemingly at random. In addition, I can hear a low pitched grumbling sound that sounds a lot like a front wheel bearing, except that it seems to come from the rear diff. My research here suggests a carrier bearing. As far as I know fixing both of those problems (if they are indeed problems with the axle) requires a complete disassembly. The problem here is that I know almost exactly nothing about axles and gears. I doubt rebuilding my D35 is a great idea, but I'm not entirely sure how much having an axle rebuilt/buying an already rebuilt axle will cost. I don't think I'm going to just grab something out of a junkyard and throw it under there (although a newer 8.25 would make a good swap) but I don't really know enough to make that decision. What should I do? I don't think my diff will spontaneously detonate any time soon, but I could be wrong. Any comments are greatly appreciated :thumbsup:

:yes:

An Alexia video! I'm honored (and subscribed) :cheers: Looks like I'll be picking up some sound deadening stuff (still not sure what to get yet) and applying it as per the video's instructions next time I tear my interior apart. Would applying extra padding on the floor be useful with mass-backed carpet? I'm probably going to bedline my floors to prevent any future possibility of rust - does it have any sound deadening properties by itself? Thanks again.

Related but unrelated question that most of CC will find stupid: What affects the sound a door makes when it closes? My doors close with a resounding banging sound. Is there anything I can do to make the doors close quieter?

Thanks for the quick replies. Great advice, never heard of the Reflectix stuff until now. My tires are fairly quiet: they're ~200 mile old Coopers that (if the morons at the shop had balanced them correctly - still trying to find the time to get that corrected) run pretty quiet. My main concern is wind noise, but I do plan on stripping the interior in the future and in the process soundproofing the cab. :thumbsup:

That's an utterly stunning little Jeep there. Any way to tell what year it's from? Some great MJ content in here too :thumbsup:

In a few months, most of my driving with the MJ will consist of 2 hour trips a few times a month. Currently, it's got a whole lot of road/wind/whatever noise that gets annoying very quickly and I'd like to quiet it somehow. Basically I want the cab to be pretty quiet when driving. Yes, I'm quite aware that it is a Jeep and will never be as pleasant on the road as a normal vehicle, but I can try my damnedest to make it so. Trouble is, I know next to nothing about this topic, and I'm willing to bet that there are several people on here who do. Here's what I'm wondering about: - 23 years hasn't been terribly kind to any of the weatherstripping. Most of it needs to be replaced. I've heard that 97+ XJ weatherstripping pieces are much better all around than anything of the MJ era. How much of a difference does it make? - When I pulled my interior apart, I got rid of the jute padding (it was in awful shape anyway). Eventually I plan on replacing the rubberized floor liner with either mass-backed carpet or Dynamat as well as bedlining the floor. What would be the most effective at keeping road noise down? - What's the best way to address sound deadening in the door panels? I'm going to be replacing most of the weatherstripping in the door so hopefully water leaks into the doors won't be a huge problem. How wrong am I? Any comments, suggestions and concerns will be greatly appreciated. :thumbsup:

I've always been intrigued by the ability to (seemingly) easily adjust a car's performance like that. Very cool.

It appears that he is swapping in/has swapped in a 4.0, if as you said the ad is in reference to the MJ in his signature.

My guess is that he meant AW4.

Thanks. I have turbines mounted now, but do miss the Ravines....... Forgot that you had the turbines on now. They're a really good look too but I've personally always preferred the ravines - they have a cleaner, more modern look IMO.

Ravines... (all credit for this goes to hornbrod) or the 5-spokes (don't think these ever got a name)

:drool: IMO, this is as good as XJs ever were. If it had an HO motor, it would be perfect.

I've been a fan of this one for a really long time. This is one of those MJs that is truly custom and I really love it for that. (I'm not sure you can have a flashier Comanche - maybe if the colors were metallic?) RR is a great guy, too. Congratulations on MJOTM and here's to a long future for this beautiful truck and its owner! :thumbsup:

It starts shaking at an indicated 60mph (~62.5 actually) and starts getting a bit better after indicated 70 (~73). Good thought. I didn't look at it in detail (but I will tomorrow) but it looked like it could have been leaking. They aren't too expensive so I may order one later on.

Very strongly considering it. This has been my first interaction with this particular shop and I'm very disappointed. No clue what shape it's in but it looks like it's original to the truck. The previous size was 215/75/15. Also: Tire pressure is 32 PSI all around.

Those of you who keep up with my build know I put new tires on the MJ last week. The tires have about 140 miles on them. They're Cooper Discoverers in 235/75 and I like them, but the shop that put them on is a different story. They broke two of my hubcaps, but that's not the problem I want to address. At 60 MPH and above, the truck shakes pretty badly. It seems to me like the tires are pretty severely out of balance. I do need an alignment, but all front suspension components seem tight from a quick check. The driveshaft u-joints seem to be tight, eliminating my other guess. I'm planning on going to have the shop check the tire balance, but I wanted to make sure I eliminated every other option before. I really, really don't like working with shops. Thanks for any and all answers! . :MJ 1: .