Minuit

Kind of hoped that didn't really need to be said...

As a general rule, any time the reverse lights don't work in an AW4 equipped Jeep, the first thing you should do is clean the NSS. I've maybe heard of 2 occasions EVER where the NSS was actually bad. When I took mine off it had a lot of crud in it. A cleaning and some dielectric grease later and my reverse lights work perfectly. Takes about 2 hours tops to do the entire thing. Just don't lose the tiny little contacts and springs it has inside.

Someone at the dump told me $1200 one time. That's when I quit asking how much they were offering and just started saying "it's not for sale"

Take off the oil fill cap and look around for a "TUPY" marking on the head. If it's there it's the fixed design. If it's not there even if it's "new" (read: reman junk) there is a risk of cracking.

I'm getting a very loud (loud enough to make the truck unpleasant to drive) rustling, windows-rolled-down type noise coming from the B-pillar at speeds above 50mph or so. All weatherstripping around the doors and window area are new, and the sound is concentrated around where the seat belt pivot is bolted to the cab, so I'm almost positive the cause is the plastic cab vents. Removing the cab vents seems to make the noise considerably quieter. I've already tried making foam gaskets around the perimeter of the vents, but that seems to make the noise worse. Is this a common problem, or am I just losing my mind? There's no way this is normal. The rustling literally sounds like the window is wide open. Here are some things that I know it's not: - Door seals. They're brand new and were installed properly. - Vent windows. They're properly adjusted and silent at any speed. Opening the vent window makes the B-pillar wind noise go away. - Door to body alignment. The door is perfectly aligned with the body. - Glass run seal. Also recently replaced with no change.

Seems like a good candidate for a "fix with junkyard parts and as cheaply as possible" beater project.

Ahh, stop making me want to buy a cheap XJ to use as a beater :fs1:

Mine comes on with the key and automatically goes back to whatever radio station it was on before (if there's a tape in it, it starts playing from where it stopped automatically). Both the LCD and buttons should have illumination. The LCD should be lit at all times (dimming when headlights are on) and the panel should be backlit with headlights on. Take the radio out and check the wiring. It seems to me like either the radio is screwed up or it isn't getting power on the constant 12V or illumination wires. Do you have a test light? That would solve the mystery right away.

Hey fellas, I'm in need of a drivers side seat cover for the "luggage" style wingback bucket seats. The cover can't have any tears but some dirtiness is fine. Prefer that it comes from a 2dr, but not required. I don't need the cushion cover, just the seatback cover. (the one with the small tear in the pic) These seats: Thanks. Let me know what you've got.

Now that I've upgraded from the nearly new Kenwood to a tape deck, I know that feeling of getting the clocks syncronized. It's an interesting ritual :D And yup, tape player works great :thumbsup:

Is this the truck in your avatar? I don't actually have anything to add to the discussion, just wondering :doh:

The sun actually came out today, so here are some better pics: Those taillights are in need of some serious attention. Yuk. And you can see all the little scratches and dents. I need to get back to taking all my pics from 20 feet away :D

In case you don't like the way the correct MJ (or modified XJ) rear splash guards look, here's a simple way for you to make front XJ splash guards work. The correct MJ rear splash guards are shown in this pic: As you can see, they sit on the outside of the fender flare. They look... dopey. Like an afterthought. I still like them, but what if we could make the nice looking OEM front splash guards work on the rear? You'll need: - A set of front XJ splash guards with L-brackets. The factory attaching hardware is not needed - we will use new nuts and bolts available at any local hardware store. - Short bolts, nuts and washers to mount the splash guards to the L-brackets (the screws provided with the splash guards will be too long to clear) - I used M5x0.8x12mm bolts as I had some on hand from a previous project, but any relatively short bolt will work. - 4 M5x0.8 nuts to attach the splash guard brackets to the rear fender flare mounting studs. I do not recommend attempting to remove the nuts that attach the fender flare to the body, as they will likely break. - Drill and bits - 1/4" or similar. Time: Approximately 2 hours Cost: Cost of splash guards (varies, around $50) + approximately $5 for hardware Here's what front XJ splash guards look like uninstalled. These are brand new NOS parts, so only a few of the holes we'll need have been drilled, but if yours have already been installed, our procedure shouldn't be any more difficult. The mud flaps are pictured opposite their actual location on the vehicle. The one on the left goes on the passenger side of the vehicle. Notice that the brackets have a short side and a long side. Normally, the "short side" would attach to the fender flare studs, but the rear fenders of the Comanche have a dramatic curve, so the brackets will not fit correctly when installed as they would be on the front fenders. However, if we flip the brackets so that the long side attaches to the fender flare studs, we have plenty of room to work with and the brackets can sit roughly perpendicular to the ground. We'll need to drill a couple of holes so that our brackets can fit this way. Fortunately, the fender flare studs have the same spacing on the rear as they do on the front, so we can drill new holes on the long side of the bracket in the same orientation as the existing holes on the short side. The existing holes are approximately 13/64" in diameter, but I drilled 1/4" holes to allow for easier fitting. When you're done drilling, go out to your truck and check the fitment of the modified brackets. They should easily fit on the fender flare studs. Now we need to attach the splash guards to the brackets we've modified. We can re-use the pre-drilled holes in the short side of the bracket and attach the splash guards using nuts and bolts. I used a 13/64" drill to make the mounting holes in the splash guard and 5mm bolts and nuts to attach the splash guard to the bracket. Before drilling both holes in the splash guard, install one bolt and go out to your truck and figure out where you need to drill the second hole in the splash guard so that it will hang correctly. In my case, the splash guard sits correctly with the bracket rotated as in the picture. It's hard to see in the picture, but the bottom corner of the bracket is flush with the inside edge of the splash guard. When you've figured out how to make the splash guard hang level, drill your second 13/64" hole in the splash guard, and attach the splash guard + bracket to the fender flare studs. Be very careful during this step, since you don't want to break any of the fender flare studs. I don't recommend trying to remove the fender flare nuts. They are very likely to break. Instead, just put the brackets over the existing nuts as shown in the picture. It wouldn't be a bad idea to chase the threads of the studs before installing the splash guards. You can adjust the location of the splash guards relative to the fender flare with washers if needed. And that's all there is to it, folks. Now go and admire your clean looking, matching rear mud flaps! :thumbsup: Edit 11/28/16: Clarified some instructions, added more clear "after" pictures.

IMO it's a beautifully simple way of approaching a somewhat complex and very useful feature. I'll have to post up pics of the crazy setup on my Lada that accomplishes the same thing for comparison. But why does the lever need to go down so far that it can be bolted up incorrectly (6 o'clock) and all but turn off the rear brakes? I have no issue with the design of it other than that. It having the ability to be installed with the lever at 6 o'clock at ride height is downright dangerous. And while I'm at it... another downright dangerous MJ brake thing... the parking brake that pops out of position.

:thumbsup:

It goes like this: NOT LIKE THIS: The top way is correct. The bottom way gives you almost no rear brakes. Stupid, stupid design and unless you knew exactly what you were doing you might think the bottom way is correct. The prop valve lever shouldn't even be able to go down that far.

That stance looks great to me as it is, but they'll settle after a little while as Don noted. You'll probably wind up with exactly what you want after they settle :thumbsup: Did you notice much loss in stability on the road?

What month was your '91 built gogmorgo? If I remember correctly the Allen bolts were ditched not too far into the HO years. Also possible that someone got pissed off and replaced them with hex heads.

For what it's worth, I prefer the "Comfort" shifting mode for gentle driving around town, but it locks the the torque converter at like 30mph, which sucks. Obviously it gets switched to Power if there's any possibility of spirited or even brisk driving. I'm a simple mind so I like flicking switches though. I like my dumb transmission switch so much I even replaced it after I broke it once getting the interior apart. A friend once told me my MJ was like a fighter jet because it had a bunch of switches on the dash :yes:

Click on his username, and then click "send me a private message" :thumbsup:

There, I changed it. Happy?

Whichever way you like. People on the internet say Comfort mode shortens the transmission's life but I don't see where anyone has any data to back it up.

If there isn't enough refrigerant for the compressor clutch to engage, the fan won't come on.

It raises the shift points of the transmission. It was eliminated after 1991 - from then on the AW4 was permanently in "Power" mode. Mostly useless, but one of those things you don't see anymore except on heavier trucks. If the switch lights up it's working correctly.

Those 7mm internal hex bolts are usually a nasty surprise to a first time MJ brake job doer, unless they've worked on GMs in the past :) I JUST finished putting a tape deck in mine. For 20+ year old factory radios they sure do sound good [emoji106] Does your truck not have AC? That's odd for an Eliminator.