Minuit

Nah. Premium (read high octane) fuel resists compression ignition better, that's about it. Some Seafoam in the tank will do what you want, but it's probably not necessary. Lower octane fuel isn't "dirty" - that's just what the oil company's marketing wants you to believe. It's also worth looking for a station near you that sells ethanol free gas, there's a few around here.

Well, it would probably be about as useful as the OEM part then. I've purchased some Omix stuff, nothing seemed too bad about it... :dunno: My experiences had to do with some weatherstripping, which was "sorta" the right size.

This. My 2WD driveshaft did the same thing.

The toolbox needs a new sticker. Put me in for one whenever they're ready :thumbsup:

Might be tucked up under the airbox. In any case it's closer to the headlight.

I like. I very like.

The Omix-Ada part will also have all of the bolt holes drilled about an inch from where they should be and be pressed out of tin foil, if my experience with that particular brand is anything to go by.

Very easy as long as the connector is there (it should be). 2 pin Weatherpak connector, green and black wires I believe. Use a 94-96 fan with 8 curved blades. There are 2 speed nuts across the top of the radiator support that hold it in on top and 2 plastic tabs on the bottom. Since you have a '91 it's also very easy to make it manually controllable as well.

hey, id rather spend $80 and have it sit on a shelf in my basement for 5 years, then need one and find out you can't buy one! (like it has been) Nah, I wouldn't buy a part just to stash it. My sender's had a rough life and I never really was happy with the very noisy Airtex time bomb in there anyway (and my fuel gauge has been wonky for a while too and it's gotten to where it's really bothering me)

Oh damnit, I didn't really need that 80 bucks anyways.

I just got ninja'd in my own thread... this is unacceptable! :D Thanks a bunch man! Couldn't have done it without parts I've gotten from you over the years :thumbsup: Not too worried about the seat belts right now, but let me know if you find some in better shape than mine. If not, no big.

I know this is a lot of posts for one day, but here's what I hope to achieve after my summer break starts in the next few weeks as well as parts lists. Let me know if you see anything missing. - Add an aux input to the radio. This is an easy and well documented procedure so I expect no real difficulties. Just need to order the materials to make an aux cable. I have loads of 18AWG auto wire so this may be the beefiest car aux cable ever made. - Lift front end using factory V8 ZJ springs aka XJ Up-Country springs. May or may not get springs from junkyard. Don't really want to mess with spring compressors any more than necessary. Lift shouldn't be more than 2". - Fix wonky gas gauge. My sender is in rough shape and we've recently found a source for new HO fuel senders. - Find some Ravine wheels. I think one of my Cooper tires may be messed up since there's a tire speed vibration I can't get rid of despite multiple balancings. Might need to find another set of tires to confirm. - Polish tail lights. I have the materials to do this about 5,000 times over. - Swap to 96+ stamped valve cover. I have every part for it now including new CCV tubing. Order: - New fuel tank vent valves - 3.5mm TRS connector - 2 pin connectors, find size - 2 upper spring insulators - V8 ZJ/upcountry XJ coil springs(?) (or $$$$$ OME 2930, need to determine desired lift) - Front bump stop pads - Fuel sender, maybe Bosch fuel pump kit - Door check pin and bracket

Thanks! There's a lot more to the "writeup" but I didn't think it fit in a build thread where I'm trying to be somewhat concise.

Thanks man! I considered getting the woodgrain stuff from the Country when I bought the console, but decided against it. When I went back a few weeks later all of it was destroyed by someone to get to the heater box :( I still think I probably should have picked it up, because it was in pretty good shape. Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk

Jeep Comanche Sporliminatoredo: November 2014-April 2016 This update has been a long time coming. It had been a forgone conclusion basically since I got the truck that the bench seat was on borrowed time. It was very worn out, provided little to no support even when new, had some pretty nasty stains in it that just would not come out, and just didn't fit what I wanted. To make matters worse, I've lost some weight recently, and as a consequence, I couldn't drive the truck for much longer than 90 minutes without making my rear end pretty uncomfortable. According to some family members that have been around since the truck was new, the bench wasn't comfortable even in 1991. Those of you who have been following this build for a while (or just look back a few pages) will know I have these in my posession Major shout out to relyt120 for hooking me up with much of the stuff pictured way back in 2014, as well as a number of other things since. One small problem was that the floor bracket sliders had their mounting studs cut off for some reason: This, combined with the fact that there were more pressing matters going on with the truck at the time meant the seats went on the backburner. The seats were mechanically in perfect condition, but I didn't care much for the vinyl covers, which smelled horrible and needed replacement anyway. This left me with a few options for how I wanted the seats to look: - My original plan, "Jamaica fabric", found in base and Sport model XJs and the pattern of the original bench seat. - Leather, found in Limited, Briarwood, Wagoneer, and some Country XJs. Not easy to find in junkyards in my area, and even then usually in rough shape. - "Luggage fabric", standard in Laredo and Country XJs, and of course the Comanche Eliminator and Laredo. Very common. Options 2 or 3 were what I really wanted, but I had a set of Option 1 seat covers on hand just in case. I couldn't decide between 2 and 3, until the decision was made for me on a recent junkyard trip: Option 3 it is then! These seats belonged to two different 1993 Country XJs about 100 feet apart in my favorite junkyard. These seats are legendary in the Jeep community for being very comfortable, and how. Apart from some minor dinginess which cleaned up very nicely, the only blemish in either seat was a small tear in the driver side seat's left bolster. You may be screaming at your computer right now, "but those are 4-door seats! If you bolt them in your MJ you won't be able to get behind them!" Or not, you probably don't care that much. In any case, these are 4-door seats and will need some surgery to make flip forward, and by surgery I essentially mean "swap the padding and covers from the nice seats onto the folding forward frames of the dingy seats, and then mate the franken-seats to MJ floor brackets". In typical Minuit fashion, these seats are a mishmash of various parts from different vehicles. The process of disassembling the seats is pretty straightforward. Here's the flip forward seats, both assembled and stripped to the frame: Flip forward frame on the left, 4dr frame on the right: I see no way to make 4-door seats tilt forward. The frames are too different. However, the padding and covers are pretty much 100% interchangeable. Even the wingback padding will bolt on to the MJ frames: I then reassembled the seats, with this "recipe" - 2 door XJ/MJ "flip forward" frames - Seatback padding and covers from 4-door luggage fabric seats, including bolster plates. Holes for tilt lever and latch mechanism made in seatback covers and foam padding. - 2 passenger side seat cushions, with luggage fabric covers. All cushions are completely interchangeable between fabric types and sides. The end result of the aforementioned swaperoo is this: Remember how my MJ floor brackets had the mounting studs cut off of the seat sliders? We can re-use the sliders from the XJ brackets and swap them onto the MJ brackets. The hard work is separating the sliders from the floor brackets. The conventional way involves drilling a million spot welds, but there is an easier way. The sliders are stopped in both directions by rivets. If the rivets at each end are removed, the seat slider can be removed from the floor bracket. The sliders roll on these bearing assemblies (in this picture, the top of the bracket faces towards the left): Since the bearing assemblies have stops in both directions, they must be removed one at a time. To do this, remove the rivet at one end of the sliding rail, then slide the rail as far toward the now-removed rivet as possible. The bearing assembly that the slider rolls on should move towards where the rivet used to be, but stop just short. To remove the bearing (and free the slider), hold the bearing assembly in place with a pair of vice grips, and hammer the slider in the opposite direction. After a few repetitions, one bearing assembly should fall out: Repeat this process for both ends of both sliders on both sets of brackets to remove the sliders. One of the sliders from the MJ floor brackets. Note the cut stud that attaches the seat to the slider assembly. The sliders from the XJ floor brackets are identical. Once both sets of sliders were separated from their respective floor brackets, I swapped the good sliders to the MJ floor brackets and re-assembled everything with bolts in place of the rivets. In case the sliders ever need to be removed from the MJ brackets, the process will be greatly simplified. I used some leftover 5mm bolts from my mud flap project, but most any hardware of similar size will do. The bolts will only function to limit the sliders' travel, so there is no real need for high grade hardware. With the sliders swapped to the MJ floor brackets, the seats can now be attached in the truck: You will need the seat belt receivers from a bucket seat equipped vehicle. Yes, the stain on the passenger side seat cleaned up nicely. The result? These seats are certainly the most comfortable automotive seat I've ever sat in. Quite possibly the most comfortable seat of any type I have ever sat in. I find excuses to drive around just to sit in these seats. They are that good. They keep you in place, too. The truck is considerably more fun to drive now that I don't have to keep myself from falling off the seat when turning. There is one downside, though: Of course, now that I had bucket seats, I had to do something with the space between the seats. Wouldn't it be nice to have a center console? If only I knew where to find one... You're coming with me. You also need the bottom air deflector. Not including the shifter, three brackets attach the console to the truck. One is part of the transfer case skid (or if you don't have 4x4, the blockoff plate for the hole the shifter goes in), one in about the middle of the transmission tunnel, and one at the rear. Writeups elsewhere on this site may claim that one or more of the brackets aren't necessary, but come on. Do it right. You don't want your console to wiggle, do you? The front bracket is easy to find. Feel around where the transfer case shifter would be (or where it is on a 4wd) and you should find a small hump. Cut the carpet/floor liner there. That's one of the console mounts: This bracket takes a single #8 sheet metal screw. If there's one thing I recommend keeping in stock if you have one of these trucks, it's a healthy supply of #8 screws. Basically every screw on the interior is #8. I like the black chrome ones from Lowe's, and I've basically replaced every screw in the truck with them at this point. The shifter assembly also holds the console in place, but I'm not swapping a floor shifter in yet, so we'll leave it out. The console won't fit quite right until it's in, but it's not a big deal. The middle and rear brackets require some drilling. Fortunately, the holes are pre-punched. To find them, line the console up just with the front bracket and follow the screw holes down. Here's roughly where they're positioned relative to the console: Simply find the divots and finish drilling holes in their location. The factory held these brackets on with self-tappers. I used more #8 sheet metal screws. If you're using #8 screws like me, drill a 1/8" pilot hole and then run the screw down into the hole to create the threads. You only have one chance to not mess this up, so be careful. Repeat this procedure for the rear bracket, once again using the console as a guide for the rough location of the pre-punched divots. Yeah, the cuts in the rubber floor aren't pretty, but it's getting covered up by the console anyway. The XJ has a plastic air duct running under the console that allows air to flow to the rear seats. This is of limited use in an MJ, so I chose to not put it in. The correct solution for the MJ is a block-off piece on the air deflector at the front of the console. Until then, some air will uselessly flow into the console on the "BI-LEV" and "HEAT" settings. Once your holes are drilled and your brackets are installed, just put your console in! When you're done, it'll look something like this: Very nice. It's increasingly more of a lie to call my truck a SporTruck. It's a floor shifter and carpet short of being an Eliminator inside with a few touches from the Laredo. Thus, I have no choice but to call my truck's trim package the Sporliminatoredo. Between this update and the last, I replaced my broken aftermarket fan shroud with a genuine Mopar one (they are still available) and my cooling fan with the upgraded 94-96 8-blade fan, to improve my cooling somewhat. My truck never overheats, but it does get a little warm for comfort when sitting in traffic. Today, I sat in traffic for almost an hour because of an accident: During that whole time, my gauges looked like this: Very nice. Note the switch to the right of the fog light switch; it controls the electric fan. Highly, highly recommended. When I made it back up to Cookeville, a feature my truck has been sorely lacking through the years was waiting in the mail: This is one of two different styles of cupholder for this era of truck. The other version sits on the passenger side of the console and intrudes on the already limited passenger side room. Crown makes a cheap reproduction, but you really want a genuine Mopar one like this. As usual, the aftermarket one is made of thinner and crappier material. This piece is solid. That's all, folks! :banana: :banana: but seriously, my 25 year old Jeep is more comfortable than luxury cars that cost 5 times as much when new.

The Eliminator seats (same as the standard seats in XJ Country and Laredo) are fantastic. They actually hold you unlike the bench or basic buckets, but anything is better than the bench IMO. The bench makes a better couch than a truck seat. Very much worth holding out for, or building your own. Here's my custom job "Eliminator" seats (4dr XJ Country padding on MJ flip forward frames, with 2 passenger side cushions). My donor MJ frames were the basic, small bolster buckets, so the bolsters on my custom seats aren't quite as ridiculously thick as the genuine article, but still far superior to the basic buckets. Very, very comfortable.

Have I lost my mind or do we now have a source for new manufacture HO senders?

Here's (sorta) what it looks like installed: The plastic piece goes over it across the top, and it has little hook tabs that secure it to the B-pillar trims. Screws attach it to the cab floor, I forget what size. IIRC, standard on Pioneers and up. Mine originally had nothing there, and the jack instructions sticker was stuck to the back of the cab.

True, but cheaper options exist. I figured if OP balked at the prices for buckets that need work he wouldn't be too happy about prices on NOS seat covers :thumbsup:

I have a hard time justifying those prices. Let's say the OP talks the seller down to $200 (unlikely) - he needs $160 in seat covers per the eBay prices. That's $360 for basic vinyl buckets. Another thing he could do if he's in for an adventure is find some hideous, torn up MJ bucket seats. All they need to do is flip forward and recline. As long as he has the MJ floor brackets and MJ or 2dr XJ flip forward frames, he can make any seats he wants. Even the ones with the thick bolsters. (or hell, even leather) The padding from any seats can be made to work with very, very little work. I did this with seats from a 1993 4-door XJ Country and ended up with, essentially, Eliminator wingback buckets for relatively cheap. And comfy doesn't even begin to describe them. All of this assumes the OP is willing to play seat legos and is able to procure the parts.

I have a lot going on at the end of this month/beginning of May, so I very likely wouldn't be able to make it if that's the date.

It's a brand new Melling oil pump and pickup. I changed it while the pan was off and it's the exact same size as the one I replaced. Thanks for the advice, everyone. I was kind of leaning towards a new pan already, but this has confirmed my suspicions. Is Spectra a decent brand? That's what O'Reilly's has. Otherwise, could someone direct me as to where I could get an OEM pan? PS - I have a torque wrench. Just got confused about the numbers. Junkyard. From a ~94 or newer 4.0 Cherokee. They have rubber gaskets rather than cork, so they simply fall off when the last bolt is taken out. Make sure your junkyard of choice didn't poke a hole in it, and make sure the threads for the drain plug are in good shape. Best to find one from a 2WD or one that's had the axle pulled. That is the area where the oil pump sits, but a HV oil pump would protrude enough to where the pan just can't be installed period if I remember correctly. That doesn't count as "alright" or even "acceptable" to me. Both Dorman and Spectra are garbage in fit and quality in my experience and I'm not finding a whole lot to make me believe otherwise.

If you're going to replace the oil pan, do NOT buy the Dorman one. Very poor fit and quality. I'm now running the factory pan from a 95 XJ and much happier. An oil pan sealed with a fossilized cork gasket can be almost impossible to get off without causing damage. It's likely that you may have ever so slightly warped yours removing it. Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk

I have a tilt steering column out of an (IIRC) '93 XJ that I want to put in my MJ. Before I do so I'd like to swap in my original ignition lock so I can use my old key. Are there any differences in the locks, or can I just swap them over?

Or if you have the switch and don't care if it works, the Power/Comfort switch. For an ironic touch, make it so that "Comfort" is the setting that actually makes it run. (disclaimer: I don't know how the switch actually works so I have no idea if it is actually possible or not) Damn, I've been ninja'd twice in a row in the same thread. Maybe I'll have to use the quote button after all?