Minuit

You're giving them too much credit I think. I'd say there's a 50% chance any given Dorman product will even fit, and then if it does I'd give it a 20% chance of it lasting more than a year. I'd take my chances on untested junkyard parts rather than new Dorman junk. Unless they just take "failed" OEM NSSes, clean them out, and sell them as new. And even then I'm sure Dorman would find a way to screw it up. I've never understood why there would ever be a need to replace an AW4 NSS under any normal circumstances. They look intimidating enough but it's just a set of contacts on a wiper. Just clean it out every so often and you're golden. I've never, ever seen one failed, just full of crud. For $5 a pop I completely understand why people would buy them just to have, but I've never seen where someone's actually needed to replace one.

Many thanks to Pete for unlocking the visitor posts section, so now the page can function as a group, too. Before, someone had to go through and approve every visitor post.

Currently vistor posts have to be approved one by one. If you or Pete change this, we can have discussions and people's truck pics without having to approve every one.

Well that just confirms everything I thought was true about that group. Guess I'm out too. Do we need to make our own group where the admins don't kick knowledgeable members out for no reason? Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk

You may or may not have noticed, but the official CC page has been awake again for a couple of weeks now. Right now I'm working on counting back through the MJs of the month that got skipped since November. I bet at least one of you didn't even know we had a bookface page! If anyone has any suggestions for what they'd like to see on there, I'm all ears. https://www.facebook.com/Comancheclub/

Around here a majority of MJs I come across and 99% of XJs have A/C, but it's practically a requirement for half the year around here. 94*F feels like 100 today and that's not particularly out of the ordinary recently.

:agree: That adapter will allow you to use an HO oil filter on Renix engines.

By the way he "talked" and by the BS he's got ingrained into his head, I can only assume you've encountered the relatively common moronicus maximus in its home territory. Members of this species are known for poorly maintaining vehicles, communicating in a nigh indecipherable language known as "txt-speek" and holding on to incorrect information despite being corrected, bcuz he has tuns of frends and nun have ac on there commanchies. It is strongly recommended you back away slowly from members of this species as some specimens can be quick to anger.

The 89 is right at home hauling junk away.

Here's some old pics of mine with an aluminum S10 or Ranger topper:

I've only known about that equalizer for about 2 minutes now, but I know I want it. Old audio equipment is one of my many weaknesses.

:wavey:

I'm sure you were probably joking, but... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Delphi-GM-3-Pin-Weatherpack-Connector-Kit-20-18-AWG-Made-In-USA-/230864481114?hash=item35c0986b5a:g:VbMAAOSwX~dWluM1&vxp=mtr

You can crimp them with a normal open barrel crimper if you know what you're doing... I rewired my entire plow truck from scratch doing that. However, if I'm ever to do that with another vehicle I'll buy the damn crimper, just to save time. That's true. My normal crimper advertises it can do Weatherpack terminals as well and I didn't intend my post to come across as "you can't do this unless you buy the actual Weatherpack tool" - I'm sure any open barrel crimping tool will get the job done, just that it may only do it 90% as well as the genuine tool. And my link is a prime example of why the only automotive things I buy at a brick & mortar store are usually at the junkyard. Looking through online catalogs is half the fun anyway. If I do need anything from a parts store I just write down a list of part numbers beforehand. The less trust you place in the lookup system and the counter monkeys Professional Parts People the better. The only reason I posted that link was to warn the OP if he went looking for one at a parts store and in retropect I probably should've just said to look on Ebay.

$6.99 w. free shipping is stupidly overpriced? I just ordered the below to replace the stupid non-locking connectors the 91's and 92's come with. Been planning on doing this for some time - OP, thanks for the reminder. You can have my old one when I get it soldered in. :yes: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-x-Set-Female-and-Male-Connector-Plug-3-way-3-pin-WeatherPack-Electrical-Wire-/252337300873?hash=item3ac079a589:g:OtEAAOSwgQ9VtPg7&vxp=mtr http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-conduct-tite-technician-terminal-3-terminal-female-tower-85392/22070202-P

The issue with swapping to a Weatherpack connector is unless you find a pre-pinned connector (or one cut out of a junkyard vehicle) you'll need special tools to pin the connector up, namely an open barrel terminal crimper that can handle Weatherpack contacts. The contacts have little gaskets crimped on to them so not any crimper will work. If you find a connector with the pins already installed it's of course just a matter of splicing it in. I don't know if you can get a pre-pinned connector from a parts store, but if you can it would be stupidly overpriced. Your best bet would be to see if someone on here can cut you one out of a 91 or 92 vehicle so you can just splice it into your wiring harness.

I love this build so much. It seems like what you're doing is kind of what I want one of my trucks to be eventually, but you're taking it way further than I ever would. :D Keep it up dude. How close are we to being caught up with the Regular Car Reviews video?

I think you'd have issues finding somewhere to mount the jack. The faces of our radios are pretty packed unfortunately. Looking at my parts radio, the only spot where I think there would be enough space to mount the headphone jack would be above the bass and treble knobs. One problem with that spot is the top cover of the radio is just above the VOL/BAL/FAD label. Anywhere else and you'd be running into a circuit board. Here's what the radio looks like with the faceplate off:

Someone I know who knows someone I know who works on Jeeps told me that a heat gun makes the above much easier. In TN it's legal to swap VINs for restoration purposes so long as the correct VIN tag stays with the vehicle, but pop-riveting the (correct) tag on the dash is a terrible idea. The rivets used on VIN tags are very different.

I don't see why not, but I can't find any cables like that, and you'd need 2 cables when 1 will suffice.

As always actual priorities come before silly old trucks, but 2 MJs in any sort of shape for $750 ain't bad at all. Just because they've been sitting doesn't mean they can't be brought back to life - my silver truck sat for 9 years, it's just a matter of whether or not the end result is worth the work of un-lotrotting it. How rusty are they?

Haha thanks man!

How come everyone is coming across the best gauge cluster these days? I feel left out :(

Oh, I should've been more clear. I didn't crimp the terminals onto the radio, I crimped them to the cable. The d-sub pins are just the right size to slide over the pins on the radio. Here's some pics. I get all of my electrical stuff from Digikey. Not sure if they ship to Canuckistan but here's a list I prepared earlier of all the materials I used. The connector and its pins aren't completely necessary. All you really need is the cable and the 3 d-sub sockets. The connector is just there to make it so I can take the radio out without taking out the entire cable (which runs through the dash and under the console in my installation). Like I said in the OP if anyone wants me to make another one of these cables I'd be glad to do so.

This. If the axle is on its last legs anyway, not worth putting a pinion seal in. Rear ends hold a surprising amount of oil anyway, so a small drip probably won't hurt anything any more than it already is. For what it's worth both D35s in my possession roar like hell. Can't wait to get rid of them.