Stacks

+1 on the track bar not causing death wobble. But... on all the Jeeps I have owned and numerous others I have matched the bracket hole, bushing sleeve ID and bolt size to eliminate the movement you speak of. You need to be very careful when drilling out the metal sleeve in the bushing. Go slow and no bigger than absolutely necessary. just my two cents worth. Larry

I'll toss this out in defense of tapping the IGN as the source for the switch. If you were to lose your headlights/parking lights in the dark of the night in a snow storm perhaps, you would be without lights at all. Tapping the IGN would allow you to have at least the fog lights to see by and get out of the way and stopped. I've wired my fog and/or driving lights so they can be turned on by the switch but still be turned off by the high beams being on ever since an incident many moons ago when a fusible link blew that controlled the power source for all vehicle lighting. This was not a Jeep product but one of my old Dodge D50 turbo diesel 4x4's. The link blew in a heavy snow storm at night and I was still 50 miles from home. Just something to consider... plan for worse case scenario. Later, Larry

The surest way to see what the camber is would be to take it in and get the front end aligned and get a print out of all the settings. From that you can determine what ball joint or bushing to get. The offset ball joint run almost $100 each in this area while the bushing is right at $25. Most of the front end shops here agree that the bushing is the preferred way to correct camber. The reason being is that there is less chance of rotation under stress.

The knuckle has a threaded in insert with a tapered hole in it that the ball joint presses into. If you look on the bottom of the lower part of the knuckle you will see 4 equally spaced slots/notches around the opening for the ball joint. There's a special inexpensive socket that fits into those slots to remove and install the inserts/bushings.

The camber is indeed 'adjustable' on a D30. I just finished doing the D30 on my MJ. There are two ways to change the camber. Use offset ball joints or replace the bushing the ball joints go into. They come in varying amounts of change. The bushings are by far the least expensive and a more stable way of making the camber adjustment. If anyone wants to hear more detail PM me and I'll send you my cell number. Far easier to explain it verbally than in print. I got my bushings at NAPA although I'm sure others have them also. My camber was out by 9 tenths on the left side and 7 tenths on the right. I put in 1 degree bushings and that brought it back into spec. It looked like the first photo Zebvance posted though not quite as much. Larry

I have not tried to fit either one to a RENIX 4.0. You might call Clifford and talk to them. Most likely you will end up talking to Larry Clifford, the man himself. and he's really easy and pleasant to talk to and very knowledgeable to say the least. He's also very up front and will most likely tell you why or why not on their headers and a RENIX 4.0.

I think the thing that helps the most in learning to drive a stick is learning to feel the clutch starting to engage. What I have done when teaching someone to drive a stick is do not step on the gas to start out. it is entirely possible to from a dead stop in 1st gear without touching the gas pedal. Get that down and you will pretty much have it made. I usually use a deserted parking lot or dirt back road for practicing. Hope that helps a bit!!

The Clifford gasket is not steel cored and has no metal ring on the exhaust ports.. They appear to be made of a similar material that the older Mr. Gasket header gaskets were made of. I ran a set of those gaskets for better than 10 years on a heavily built up 273ci Mopar with headers and did not have any problems with them leaking or burning out. One plus for the Banks headers is that the tubes are welded on both sides of the flange and the head side is machined flat after the tubes are welded and the flange is quite thick too as is the flange on the Clifford's. Hope that helps a bit!! Later, Larry

I had the whole carrier out and the ring geat off when I had mine apart to put the locker in and new bearings in. I'm not sure if you can get the roll pin out with the ring geat still on. Check what Hornbrod suggests too before digging in the innards any more!!

It appears to be a roll pin which is quite common as a retainer for that. If you have roll pin punches or a suitable sized drift punch, that will work nicely to drive it out. Larry

:agree: Yup!! I think they belong on the same list as baling wire, bubble gum, and 200mph tape!!! :banana:

Hmmmm... my Comanche with a half a tank of fuel and two 160lb people weighs 4620. :hmm:

I got just over 5" with the SOA, With the D44 and the stock D35 springs I probably got a little less than if I had used the D44 springs. There weren't any D44 springs to be had when I got to doing the SOA so I just used what I had. Larry

I went a bit off the wall with my motor rebuild/swap. The block and head are from a '93 YJ. I figured it was easier to retain the RENIX electronics than change wiring etc. The issue with the Clifford headers and the RENIX intake is the header tubes angle back too soon after exiting the head. You could possibly dent in the header tube to get the needed clearance but I decided it would probably be more excessive than I wanted. re: too much restriction on the header tubes. At least the front two tubes would need to be modified and possibly more. Adapting the RENIX TB to the HO intake wouldn't be too bad at all. A 1/2" piece of aluminum and some time on the drill press and you got it. As far as Clifford or Banks for the header... I don't think you could go wrong with either one. They have both been at this for quite awhile, Clifford much more so but both have proven track records so to speak. I went with the Clifford headers cuz of the dual outlets for the stacks. With only 18" glass packs it is definitely loud and noisy when you get your foot into it but I like it and hey... my ears aren't what they used to be. LOL Hope my babbling is of some help!! Larry

You might consider the one from Clifford performance. It's easily 1/8" thick. I was impressed with the one that came with my headers! Link to Clifford page, just scroll down a bit. http://www.cliffordperformance.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=CP&Category_Code=J258 Also here's a link to a photo during the install. http://comancheclub.com/topic/33955-89-mj-work-truckdd-to-dd-and-4-wheeling-whenever/page-2

Everything is holding up good so far. Running great. The only change I did make was installing a '99 fuel rail as I wasn't comfortable with the way I had mounted the RENIX fuel rail. I had to lengthen out the wires from the CPS after they got against a header tube and melted together. Lengthened so I could route them where I could tie wrap them down. Keep me/us posted on the Banks header install. I had originally looked at a Banks Torque tube header. I needed/wanted a dual outlet header to feed the stacks and of course that wonderful 'inline 6 split manifold' song!!! If the exhaust note was just a bit lower it almost sounds like a Detroit 453T winding up!! :banana: The only ongoing issue I have is the engine is running too lean. I may end up going to an adjustable FPR to remedy it. Time will tell.

Here's a link to a photo in my build thread that shows the factory frame tie in bracket. http://comancheclub.com/topic/33955-89-mj-work-truckdd-to-dd-and-4-wheeling-whenever/page-2

I checked with the local UPS store on the approx cost of shipping a single rim based on a weight of 26lbs and package dimensions of 16"x16"x8" and they gave me a cost of $51. Let me get one down there and get an exact figure for you and then see if you still want them. I'll hit the local tire store and get a box to put it in. It's about $15 cheaper if it's in a box versus shipped bare.

Are these the rims you mean? If so, I have 3, but I am in north Idaho. One or all could be yours for the shipping.

Why go to the hassel of doing the MPI? Check this link for the exhaust, intake etc for a Chrysler/Dodge slant 6. http://www.cliffordperformance.net/index.html Probably they only motor more bullet proof than the slant 6 or Ford 300 is the old Chrysler flathead six used in fork lifts and industrial useage. It is still being made today(the flathead I mean) and used in fork lifts etc.

Just to toss out the disparity in JY parts prices from one part of the country to another. Here in north Idaho I can go to the local Pull-n-Save and get an AX15 for $55, or any tranni for that matter; an NP231/242 for $60, drive lines are $13 and a crossmember is $15. I'm pretty darn fortunate I think. There are always lots of Cherokees and Grand Cherokees and frequently Comanches available to pull parts from. We're off to MT tomorrow to drop off an AX5 to a friend for his wife's '99 Jeep TJ. Ther above isn't pertinate to the thread I agree. But my personal thoughts about used parts prices is you shouldn't ask more than some one could get them for themselves. Well... perhaps a bit more for your labor to have pulled it. Just a thought to toss out. Larry

My personal preference for a DD/Trail rig is a stick shift. When it comes to rock crawling, especially a climbing route, a well built automatic is the way to go I think. The pluses to me for a stick are: better fuel mileage, excellent compression braking, better feel of the road surface under slippery conditions ( muddy terrain and ice and snow) and decidedly longer brake life. I typically get 100,000 miles out of a clutch and 120,000 plus out of brake pads and shoes on both my TJ and MJ.. On my old D50 diesel 4x4's I got over 200,000 miles on the clutch and around 175,000 out of the brake pads up from and a little more than that out of the rear shoes. With a stick you have a choice of gears and a huge compression pump under the hood... makes for a great source to slow down with!! I may be a grandpa's age but I've never driven like one! Well except way back when and I had Mom or Pop with me. :P

Hehehe... sucess!!!! I haven't completely lost my touch to irritate folks... all meant in good fun of course!! LOL I did my time with chrome 'everything' on my '67 'Cuda fastback. It was hard on the eyes to open the hood in direct sun light!. I ended up spending far more time cleaning and polishing it than driving it. It's tough to beat a black rig with chrome for appearance. I will be the first to admit that! CommaComanche... just razzing ya. That will be a sharp looking rig when you get it completed. Keep us posted on needed chrome parts. The local Pull-n-Save here has a fair abundance of Cherokees and occasionally an MJ or two. I'd be glad to pull whatever you might need and can't find elsewhere and I find here. Character dents, aka Custom by crunch and brush art seem to be a lively form of entertainmnet!! I particiularly love brush art and have a fair start on my MJ but a long way to go to really be photo worthy!!! :P

Can't resist.... Excessive chrome is for Trailer Queens and Mall Crawlers!!!! :peek:

Several of the major after market wheel manufacturers used to make wheels like that. Marketed under names like vari-fit etc. They came with a set of thick steel 'washers/inserts' one set had holes in the center of the washer, the other set had a hole closer to one end so the wheel could be used on 3 different 5 lug bolt patterns, most often, 4.5, 4.75, and 5". If you are set on using those rims, what you need is a set of the washers/inserts that were made for that brand of wheel. Hope that helps a bit.