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I will conditionally disagree with the EFI vs carbs. Dollar for dollar I think the carbs will win. Not saying you can't get the same out of EFI but you have to go to almost custom ground camshafts and aftermarket computer programing to achieve those results. I hope to have some dyno numbers this coming summer that will prove me right or wrong.

Give Clifford Performance a call at 951-471-1161 and talk to Larry Clifford. He will gladly answer all your questions and give you the why that goes with it. He is the one who usually answers the phone. They have been at the inline 4 and 6 cylinder performance business for almost 50 years now. I'm sure he will tell you the same thing he did me. The dual Weber 38/38 gives the best bang for the buck on the 4.0 Jeep engine. I had the good fortune to trade my '97 TJ to them for a bunch of their performance parts. Check this... http://comancheclub.com/topic/41024-new-goodies-for-my-continuing-build/

Here's the layout I used on my '89 MJ. I corrected the dimensions from the original to fit my MJ. All holes exist on the frame of the MJ. I suggest making a cardboard or 1/8" masonite template and get it fitted before doing the real metal one. I used 5/16" plate to make mine cuz that is what I had on hand. I tend to go with overkill and would have liked to use 3/8". Longer bolts will be needed to re-mount the steering box. Also be aware, if you aren't already, there is a 'spacer' between the steering box and the frame. There's a link to my build thread for some pix of the front bumper, etc. http://comancheclub.com/topic/33955-89-mj-work-truckdd-to-dd-and-4-wheeling-whenever/ [/url]">

Alexia... But Cherokees don't count... well... except for parts!!! :P

Actually.......I'm thinking wrong. SWR under 1:1 is impossible, As 1:1 would be 100% output, zero loss. So if you were to have 0.9:1 as a theoretical SWR reading, you'd be getting more output than the radio generates. So under 1:1 shows there is an issue with the meter or output. The RF output section is common to all channels so with apparent output on the upper channels the finals are at least working to some extent. I can see how I misunderstood how were talking about SWR. I was looking at it like we usually do in that you are looking at the antenna in front of you with the radio behind you and all the reflecting is being done by the antenna back to the radio. Definitely on the same page!! The spring in the install really shouldn't be there. It adds considerable length to the antenna which is already cut to be resonant. The 102" whip is quite flexible so the spring is really just overkill and additional places for rust and corrosion to grow. If a person insists on running one with that antenna, the length of the antenna needs to be shortened by the length of the spring and then tune the antenna. As far as an SWR below 1:1... I would definitely say a problem of some sort but....it could be that you have created a possible first step on a perpetual motion machine... that is getting something (power greater than the radio output) for nothing. And in the process become a billionaire!! And quite famous too!! Sorry.... just an attempt at a little humor!!

The temp gauge sending unit would go in the driver's side of the thermostat housing I believe.

Skel130... you have the SWR backwards. Zero or as close as you can get it is what you want. A high number means that more power is being reflected back. SWR means Standing Wave Ratio. The ratio between power out and power reflected back. The lower the better. The transmit seems to be OK cuz it does show output on some channels. The issue with the cal not working right could be the match between the radio and the antenna is so far off that the cal can not compensate for it. The advice to check the mount for washer alignment and rust is good to check!! Most CB today have protection circuits in them in case of high SWR. They cut back the power output so it doesn't fry the finals. If you can find a dummy load and check things like I had mentioned earlier that will tell you if the radio is working OK and help track down where the problem is. An outboard SWR meter would be a good idea too as skel130 mentioned. The built in SWR meters are notorious for not being too accurate. If you have an volt ohm meter you can use that to get a rough idea if there is rust and it will tell if there is a short some where in the antenna circuit too. Here's a link to an SWR table. As an example... with 4 watts output and 1 watt reflected back... that is equal to a 3 To 1 SWR. http://radio.feld.cvut.cz/personal/matejka/download/VSWR%20table.pdf

The spring isn't necessary or really wanted on any antenna. The 102" whip is more than flexible enough to not get damaged especially where you have it mounted. Rat shack may still carry dummy loads. Most any CB shop will have them I'm sure. 12.6Vdc is a bit low but no enough to make that much difference in power out. You might think about running the power right to the battery as a precaution. I've always run fused lines right to the battery for my CB's or HF/VHF/UHF radios. Or set up a terminal strip under the dash that is wired straight to the battery to power stuff I want hot all the time.

Here's a couple things to check and a couple general comments. Borrow or buy a dummy load like in the link below. Take your coax off the radio and put the dummy load on the radio then check your output at top middle and bottom of the channels. If the output is more normal then re-connect your coax to the radio, get a barrel connector. remove the coax form the antenna mount put on barrel connector and dummy load. Re-check your output. If the output is normal there then the antenna is the cause. If the antenna was originally tuned for the whole band the output should be best on 19 and less on 1 and 40 when transmitting into the antenna. Get rid of the spring. All it is going to do is cause you head aches because it adds 3" plus or minus to the length of the antenna and the antenna is cut to be resonant as is. It appears that you have a 102" whip. The tip on there is basically cosmetic so if the antenna is too long you can cut some off. There is usually a set screw in the tapered part that the whip fits into. If there is that is your adjustment. You will have a reasonable amount of travel up and down for adjustment. If you don't reach a resonant point/low SWR when lowering the antenna into the spring then you could cut some off the top as mentioned before. Also, your RF gain should always be set to max. Use the squelch to quiet the speaker. The RF gain setting CAN affect what the meter shows even on your output. I'll toss this next out for clarity and just in case. If you check your SWR on 40,19,1 in that order and it is better/best on 40. Then the antenna is more resonant at a higher frequency so it is too short for the lower frequencies. If it is better or best on 1 then the antenna is resonant at a lower frequency and is too long for the higher frequencies. If the SWR is lower on 19 than 40 or 1, then it is closer to a good match for the whole band. Check a channel about half way between 1 and 19 and see if it's lower or higher than 19. If it's lower than 19 then the antenna is still too long overall and if it is higher the antenna is still too short. Also check a channel half way between 19 and 40 and see if its lower or higher than 19 and adjust accordingly. If adjustments have little to no affect on the SWR that is typically a grounding issue. It may be necessary to run your antenna ground all the way to the battery and the radio ground the same way. Seems like overkill but it usually helps at least. My basis for the above is my experience as a Ham operator since 1978 and a CB'er before that. Hope this helps and nothing mentioned is meant to infer you not already knowing it. Just a refresher etc. If you have any other questions holler and I will do my best to answer as best as I can or point you to somewhere that will give you the answer. Good luck!! http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/150565947364?lpid=82 Later, Larry

Could have wiped a lobe on the cam too!!

Oyaji... I love the sound of the intake with Weber's. I had one on my old Plymouth Arrow pickup and on my Datsun pickup with an L20!! Not sure I will hear much inside the truck cuz of my exhaust, 2 18" glass packs feeding the stacks. And then there's the typical split exhaust manifold cackle of an inline six. LOL I talked to Larry Clifford about the side drafts and he said his and his Dad's experience with them was for all out race use, yes. But for more low end and a much flatter and broader torque curve the dual sync carbs seemed to work better for them. Time will tell. Thank you for the suggestion of getting a manometer! Had pretty much spaced that out. Very good idea!! Jim... I have to agree!! Love the look of them. Like Oyaji mentioned too, the look of triple side drafts is pretty neat too!!!! What's the old saying? "The only difference between men and boys is the price of their toys!" The first engine I ever hopped up was the 273 in my '67 'Cuda. Total build on that complete was $1200 back in 1973. Hate to think what that would cost today!! Will do my best to get lots of pix along the way and get them posted on my build thread. Sure hoping all this will produce the amount of torque Larry Clifford says it will!!! :banana: Later, Larry

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May the good Lord watch over his family and yours, Jim. It is so sad to lose a friend so young. God bless you all!!

Here is a link that will answer your questions on gears and where the carrier break is. Hope this helps. http://www.differentials.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/2012-WCD-Catalog.pdf

I'm sure it's entirely permissable to drink what's left over from filling the brake system. :laughin:

I've heard that Jim Beam or Black & White scotch works well also!! ;0)

It's cheaper by the gallon!! :brows:

If you are looking for a quality replacement for a stock header, one that addresses the cracking issue, Check out this link. Myself and two other people have these 'headers' on our TJ's and XJ's. Fit great, stock exhaust connects right up, and they are stainless!! http://www.1aauto.com/1A/exhaust-manifold/Jeep/Comanche/1AEEM00146/250323/1992

With the money you have put into the rebuild so far, machine work, new pistons, new oil pump, new camshaft and lifters etc., the cost of new push rods and rocker arms is minimal by comparison. Unless you are racing, I personally see no reason to go with anything other than stock rocker arms and push rods. If you go with say Crower, Crane, Hesco, Isky, CompCams push rods and/or rocker arms a fair chunk of the price is the name. The stock ones lasted 240,000 miles. Why take the chance?? Just my two cents worth. FYI... Cost difference Hesco-rocker arms and push rods $196.51. Price for same from Rock Auto... $92.28

OK, I'm going to disagree. My '97 TJ, 4.0, AX15, 3.07 gears and 31x10.50's, and no lift, was used for 4 years to commute 20 miles each way to work each day. As long as I did NOT use 5th gear I averaged 23MPG. It didn't matter if I took the interstate or local highway. The mileage stayed pretty much the same. The tranny in the '02 is an A999/32RH most likely. Final drive ratio is 1:1 same as 4the gear in the AX15. The '02 A999/32RH may be a lock up converter. I don't know. Either way I would expect you might get 20MPG give or take. Keep the rpm's around 2500 when cruising if you can and 20mpg wouldn't be a dream at all!! After my 4" lift and 4.10 gears I still get 19mpg on the interstate, 15-17mpg around town.

I've been running a lockrite no-slip in the front of my TJ for 8-9 years. A lockrite is locked all the time. In the front you will never know it's there, no noise, clicking. It just does it's job.

Very welcome Alicia. Hope it helps!!

Shoot me a PM with your email address. I have a PDF file that is the electrical manual for 1988 Comanche. Larry

I'm going to go WAY out on a limb and say that the lens alone could not possibly make the difference between a long, tight driving light beam and a very wide, flat, cut-off fog light beam. Eagle... I hate to start chopping on your limb but... check out fresnel lenses. Most often associated with light houses and in our every day lives.. the lenses in traffic lights that can be seen only from a given direction. The Navy uses them on aircraft carriers in their Fresnel Lens Optical Landing System. A stabilized light source/glide slope reference for the pilots when making their landings. I was the lens tech on USS Saratoga 1973-75. The lens boxes used Fresnel lenses and I do not remember there even being a reflector in them. The light pattern was similar to a fog light pattern only with a sharp cutoff top and bottom. I honestly think the lens has a far greater affect on the light pattern while the reflector would influence the intensity. Just my 2 cents.

Nothing would need to be modified on the diagram at all. Just tap the white wire into a source that is hot when the IGN is on. Larry