Stacks

New engine is in. Working on an adapter for the tramsmission mount then on to the power steering pump. I've been contemplating putting a hood scoop on my MJ. Just happen to close the hood down this evening and... looks like I have to put a scoop on. No hood clearance!!!! Bummer!!!! LOL Does anyone else's MJ mark them with directions???

A little more progress today! My buddy Barry There's a bunch of cleanup and painting to do before the other emgine goes in. A couple more custom brackets to make too for the manifold heating plumbing. Getting rid of the pressure bottle too.

The fun begins!!! Old motor on it's way out!!!! Have new fuel pump and pressure regulator mounted. Cut out done for clearance for lower transcooler line fitting on radiator. Slow but sure... I hope!!

I grew up and started turning wrenches in the 1960's muscle car era. Back then quiet equated to gutless performance wise. What can I say, "You can't teach an old dog new tricks??" I do have to admit the crackle of a split exhaust manifold on a straight 6 is a bit annoying to begin with but... it grows on ya! LOL Just got some 4" diameter pieces of drive-line to make new stacks. There's 3" on there now. That should make the crackle a bit lower pitched... maybe. :P I also have to admit to purposely putting things up to create a little "hate and discontent" now and then. :laughin: We are all unique/different in our own ways and a noisy exhaust is one of mine. I have a cross bed tool box that hides the in box plumbing for the stacks now too. I'll be quiet now about the exhaust stuff. On the issue of the noisy/rattling tailgate arms... I've used nylon washers to dampen the noise and you can also drill out the center pivot and install a nut and bolt with nylon washers in between to cut the noise down. Those along with heat shrink or inner tube or rubber hose makes them mostly quiet. My experience with cables is they fray at the end fittings, rust unless they are stainless and are notorious for getting pinched and kinked. Just my two cents worth.

Or... put on a nice sounding exhaust system and you won't hear the rattle or much of anything else. Sorta like this.

The front coils were from the local Pull-n-Save wrecking yard. Came off of a lifted Ford Ranger. Would have walked right on by if I hadn't seen the 8" lift blocks on the back of it. They are quiet a bit shorted than stock MJ springs but a lot stiffer. Speed bumps in parking lots are pretty harsh to say the least. Was hoping to find F150 coils around 20-22" unloaded. Eventually I will put in some 4" lift springs from Old man Emu, or ProComp or Rocky Road. Depends on how hard I rattle my teeth and how often. The ones in there now netted me right at 4" of lift.

Search some more. No need to go to that kind of price for an adjustable fuel pressure regulator!! http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Fuel-Pressure-Regulator-Adjustable-Holley/_/R-BK_3353417_0073746596

dainternetguy... Great!! I'll have to make a note of where it's at here!! lol

There was at one time a link to download an 88 FSM here on the forum. I couldn't find it with a search. I do have it downloaded. It's a little over 17 megs zipped. I also have an 88 electrical manual. That's just over 8 megs. I'd be glad to send them to you before you go and buy a hard copy. Let me know. Larry

Got a little progress made today after my parts came in from Jeep. Couldn't find the re-enforcing plate for the flex plate at the junk yard. Strange!! Put the intake on with the old header so I can work on the kick down linkage and the shift linkage. Most of the rest of the parts I need will come off the existing engine, starter, power steering pump, etc. Had the QC inspector on site today too!!! :)

Here's the build sheet for the engine. Thought I would throw it up here so everyone can compare machine shop prices.

I was east bound on I-90, just coming out of the last right hand curve coming off of 4th of July Pass doing right at 65mph. The right rear dropped like I had a blowout. Started to pull onto the shoulder of the road and the right rear dropped more. Something hit the right front fender and then I saw the tire,brake drum and axle bounding down the road in front of me with cars dodging it as it crossed both lanes and came to a stop against the center divider about 250 yards down the road. I figured I had a c-clip fail on the D35. When I retrieved it I saw that it wasn't a c-clip D35 and that the bearing had failed and come apart. Called a friend to come get me and the parts and hit the parts house on the way home. Replaced the bearing and returned and installed the axle etc. Every time I go thru that corner with the MJ now I kind of wait to see what will happen this time!! :laughin:

Here's an overhead mount. I've used this type of mount in my TJ and my old D50 4x4's. Works great!! http://comancheclub.com/topic/33955-89-mj-work-truckdd-to-dd-and-4-wheeling-whenever/page-2

OK... the motor came home today. Not much to really look at but an assembled engine but here's a few pix. Will add more as I get more assembled. Installation will have to wait til warmer and drier wx. The garage is used to store a CJ5 when it's snowing or raining. Can't let that rascal shrink any more!!!! lol

The machine shop called Thursday evening to ask for some bolts I forgot to take down to them. The office forgot to call me to take photos during the machine work. I took the needed bolts to them Friday morning and was able to get a couple photos with my phone. The block had already been bored and decked but was still sitting in the honing machine. They still have to hone the bores to match each piston. I'm hoping they will call me when they are doing that! They were turning the crankshaft when I got there so got a photo of that and the finished product. Mike said it will be ready Tues. or Wed. this coming week!!

As of 1/31/2014 the engine and all the internal parts from Clifford are at the machine shop. :thumbsup: I got the OK to take photos while they are doing the work on the block and/or crank. I'm not sure when the work will begin. There looked like a few ahead of mine. Pix/video as soon as I have them.!!!

A bit of an update here. I'm waiting for a timing set to arrive to go with the parts I got from Clifford Performance. Check my thread in Pub... http://comancheclub.com/topic/41024-new-goodies-for-my-continuing-build/ Rig is running well. I am fussing with one issue and have not resolved it yet. The A/F ratio is too lean, 16-17:1. Nothing I have tried so far has had any affect on changing it better or worse. Basic run down on the engine. Rebuilt professionally, machine work and short block assembly, about 9,000 miles ago. .030 over bore, Compcams 68-232-4 cam 250/256 lift .460/.476 duration. Compression ration around 9:1 Head was rebuilt and did not need to be shaved at all and the block did not require decking. '93 HO block, 7120 head, 99 intake, fuel rail and TB. new 19lb injectors (happen to be the 4 hole ones.) Cruiser's ground refresh has been done. Built the adjustable MAP sensor. Modified the HO TPS to work with the RENIX system. Clifford dual outlet headers with O2 sensor bung in each collector. The A/F ratio was monitored with two different narrow band meters and one wide band. Stays between 16-17:1. What I have tried so far is: swapped fuel pressure regulators and verified 33-35 with vacuum and 39-40 with no vacuum. Watched A/F while verifying fuel pressure and not even a twitch in A/F. Put in a fuel pressure regulator that was 43/49 PSI. Still no change in A/F. Moved IAT sensor to the cold air intake tube, no change in A/F. Adjusting MAP sensor only affected the A/F at WOT or near WOT. A/F went to13:1. O2 sensors are both new. 0-1VDC Narrow band in one collector and 0-5VDC in other collector to feed ECU. Swapped O2 sensors between collectors, no change in A/F. I have monitored the actual voltage coming from the 0-1VDC O2 sensor with a 10meg Ohm VOM, digital and analog. Voltage varies from .15-.17VDC which coincides with just under 17:1 and just above 16:1. Monitored the voltage while checking fuel pressure regulators and not even a twitch when going from vacuum to no vacuum. I've swapped out the ECU twice with ones I've picked up at the local Pull-n-Save. No change in A/F. Have swapped distributor, cap rotor etc, coil and ICM. No change in A/F. Swapped CPS twice, no change. Engine idles at about 700RPM and pulls 17"Hg at idle and 13-15 when cruising down the road. Mileage has dropped approx 2MPG but I believe that is from my lift and re-gearing from 3.07 to 3.55. About the only thing I have not tried is putting the old stock injectors back in. I am hesitant to drive any longer distances with it cuz of the lean A/F ratio and especially after checking the plugs. With 5000 miles on the plugs the porcelain was still mostly white with a bit of red/reddish color on one side of each plug. Internal body around the porcelain was very light tan to almost white. Side electrode had slight darkening on the under side. Plugs are Champion RC12LYC. No CAT and there is an 18" generic glass pack feeding each stack. Down pipe and exhaust is 2 1/4" til the 3" stacks. Just thought of something. The MAP sensor is now fed off the intake and not the throttle body as it normally would be in the RENIX system. I'm not sure if this would have an affect except at or near WOT. This issue is part of why when I got the offer from Larry Clifford to swap my TJ for the dual Webers etc I jumped on it. Yes a less than optimum thing to do for the best fuel economy etc. The thing I can do more easily is change jets and A/F settings and sync the carbs. I also realize there are many people out there with stroker motors that are running the stock EFI and intakes and doing great. My engine has been together for a year now and I don't drive it nearly as much as I normally would. If anyone has any thoughts to toss out I'm all ears. I would like to get the A/F issue fixed/solved. The new motor will get the Webers and the rest of the goodies but I want to resolve the A/F issue so I could use the motor in something else that may come along! Thanks for wading through all my babbling. If anyone has any questions or I didn't mention something pertinent give me a holler. Thank you!! Have a great weekend!! Larry

Definitely!! I had one of our helo pilots when I was in the Navy that had a 911 and he was always muttering about how much it cost him to get the carbs synced in it. This was in 1971-72 and it was around $120-130. Hate to see what it costs today!!

I have had very good results with Skyjacker Hydro7000 shocks on my lifted MJ.

Tough to argue with those numbers!!! ;0)

How much change can you get out of velocity stack length changes? Similar to tuning extensions on header collectors?

If I was only going to gain 30hp I wouldn't be doing it either. lol Even if the parts are basically 'free'. I hesitate to put out any numbers but I'm hoping for something in excess of 300hp and close to 450ft/lbs of torque. I'll see this summer after the engine is broken in and they have a free Saturday at the shop that has the dyno. Hope I'm not stepping on myself here!!

Perhaps for the seasoned tuner, but not for the guy who is wading into uncharted waters as this original poster is. I agree whole heartedly!!

That is a sweet looking set up!!!!! :banana:

Hi Remy B...I'm still in the process of building the engine. The engine U have in my MJ now is not stock so I can't do much of a before and after. It only has about 10,000 on a rebuild but has a CompCams cam in it. The one they list for fuel injection. I have the Clifford dual outlet headers feeding my dual stacks. Seriously... give Larry Clifford a call. He is a great guy to talk to and can give you the ins and outs related the things you mentioned. i.e. dual Webers for low/mid vs top end. The proper cam can take care of that easily. Looks like I may have created a stir on your original post based on the popups I'm getting on replies to that thread. My personal experience with performance engines previously has been with small block Mopars 273/340's. So I am very new to the Jeep 6 performance stuff. As was mentioned... if you are looking to gain say 30HP. You can do that by going to a cat back exhaust with very free flowing muffler and a cold air intake and a K&N filter. I did that on my TJ and it was a noticeable improvement. I'll keep everyone informed on my results. Later, Larry