Stacks

Why buy one when you can build/modify your shifter or a spare one in about an hour? I did that on my AX15 in my TJ. I used a 1" steel spacer between the trans and shifter and cut the ball off the stock shifter and added 1" to it's length. Easy welding job even for me who isn't even a novice welder yet. It's been running in my TJ for15 years now. You can change the ratio percentage by changing how much length you add and using a spacer of the same length. ;)

http://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclefeeds.php?carcode=1181821&m=wc&l=en&html=true

I ran into the same issue when I put an A999 out of a '85 CJ8 behind my 4.0 replacing a BA10. Got a replacement input shaft for the '92 NP231 and was good to go. Wanted to put a 727 in but none to be found at the time.

You guys live in the wrong place when it comes to having windshields replaced. Just had mine replaced in my MJ about 2 weeks ago. Cost me $170 for a Cherokee windshield and trim/gasket and he did it in my garage to boot. No more CHROME trim!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :banana:

http://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclefeeds.php?carcode=1181821&m=wc&l=en&html=true

The shield fits between the block and the flywheel so yes those two bolts have to come out too.

That is what I replaced to correct the camber issue on my MJ. It was far cheaper than an offset ball joint, $25 vs $75. The one I got was steel not brass though and the one I removed was steel. Takes a semi special socket to remove and lots of horse power in my case.

I did not say not to upgrade from a D35. I put a D44 in my MJ wheel the wheel bearings went out on the 35. Cheaper to put the 44 in than replace the bearings. It comes down to we will just have agree to disagree. I apologize to Kenny K. I should have made my initial post here as a new topic.

OK... I am going to create some hate and discontent here!!!! I am sick and tired of people bashing the D35 that is in our MJ's. I ran the D35 on my TJ, locked both ends with 33's and 4.10's for 14 years. NEVER broke a thing on the D35 in 120,000 miles. I took it to Moab twice. I've run mud, rocks, woods roads and no problems. If you drive a rig with a D35 like a white man and realize it does have limitations it will live just fine. The limitations I've come to realize on the D35 is max gears and tires are 4.10's and 33's. You put 35's on it and or go to 4.56's or higher you are definitely asking for trouble. The other limitation is NEVER let the wheels begin to hop. You can break a D35 with 3.07's if you let it hop. The reputation of a D35 being weak is less caused by the D35 than it is drivers trying to make it do what it was never intended to do by driving like an idiot!! Nuf said.

Check my build thread, first page and scroll down to first pic labeled after lift then up on pic to see a before pic. Hope that helps. http://comancheclub.com/topic/33955-89-mj-work-truckdd-to-dd-and-4-wheeling-whenever/

Welcome to the club! :laughin:

Long overdue on an update... my apologies. I have about 3000 miles on the new motor. Still fussing with timing and advance curve a bit. Broke down and bought a wide band A/F ratio gauge. I have all my 'extra' gauges mounted but they need to be cleaned up some before I can bring myself to show them to you guys. It was very much function over form initially! lol Yes... I'll admit I'm a gauge freak. I've added 6 more gauges besides the factory ones. Several are duplicates but monitor from different locations on the engine. I've added a vacuum gauge, A/F gauge, mechanical oil pressure gauge, mechanical engine temp gauge, mechanical trans temp gauge, and a volt meter that reads straight from the battery. I've got the scoop blocked off for the winter to keep snow out of the engine compartment. Just used black duct tape but will figure something out that is more permanent for the purpose. Also plan on re-doing the bolts that hold the scoop on. Want to run them up from the bottom and use brass acorn nuts on the top just for cosmetics. The rust issues in the floor boards are fixed. Just looked for pix but I guess I didn't take any. One of the next projects is to build a console cuz the Hurst shifter that came with the trans sits quite far back, the rear of it's housing cover is between the front edge of the MJ bucket seats. I need to re-do the front axle mechanical disco. I prefer using it cuz I like to use 2 Lo for putting along on woods roads. Been looking for rear fender well liners but may just sand blast them and use under coating or Herculiner or some such. Still contemplating going to 3.73's. My peak torque is now a bit higher than before and I do have some 31x10.50's I could put on it later. Actually the mags and tires off my TJ. :) Working on ideas for skid plates for engine/trans/Tcase. Looking at adding more diamond plate below the front bumper to help protect the steering stuff etc. Most of this is warmer weather stuff. Yeah... I know... I've become a wuss when it comes to working in an icy cold garage unless it's absolutely necessary!!! lol There's also the issue of all my other hobbies. Been fussing with my little 7x10 mini lathe, reloading ammo for the coming gopher season, playing with the ATVs and working on the mechanical drawings of the stuff I've built for the MJ etc. And... working on the design of my version of a Gerstner wood machinist's tool box. Whew... being retired sure can keep a body a little busy!! lol Hope everyone has a great spring!!! Larry

PFCLeist is correct. You are tuning the antennas length. SWR is a ratio of transmitted power vs reflected power. The power is reflected from the antenna back towards the radio because the impedance of the antenna and the radio output circuits don't match. The procedure isn't difficult but does require as SWR meter. It's far easier to explain by talking with someone. PM me and I can walk you thru the procedure and the why's and why not's of what needs to be done. I'm a ham, first licensed in 1978. Larry

Why get so complicated? Use a bike shifter or brake cable actuator or use a relay controlled solenoid and just open the throttle with it to the rpm you want. I used the solenoid set up on my TJ for using the on board welder and the bike cable set up to bump the idle up when using the on board air on the MJ. Simple s good.

Raster graphics, gif, jpg, bmp, etc can be converted to vector graphics via many programs. I have used one called Inkscape. It's a free download and conversion is as simple as opening a jpg image file and re-saving it as a vector graphic file such as .svg which seems to be a common vector format. I've tried saving to a .dxf format with relatively poor results for some reason. Might be worth a try.

The valve is open with no vacuum and starts closing as vacuum is applied.

Why swap the whole thing? Knock off the locating pin and clock the filter adapter to any position you want. Mine's been that way for 10 plus years and no problems.

Large list of parts for the MJ. Heavy on brake parts but lot s of other stuff too. http://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclefeeds.php?carcode=1181821&m=wc&l=en&html=true

daking... I think you are really under rating your horse power. A basic 4.6l stroker makes about 240-250 at the crank with a stock 4.0l cam and compression ratio. That equates to about 210hp at the rear wheels depending on what kind of chassis dyno you run it on. http://www.badasscars.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=64/category_id=13/mode=prod/prd64.htm My old '67 'Cuda, 180hp per factory rating, with a factory 4spd, 3.23 gears and weighing 2900lbs would run low 16's. Not real great. Jump that to the same engine, 273cid, with just over 300hp and it would turn low to mid 13's. Just some info for a possible comparison. ;0)

Hey Hornbrod... she's runing and driving good. Still fussing with fine tuning stuff. With the cooler wx here now the mpg is down but then most of my driving lately is just around town so the engine hardly gets warmed up. Most of what I've been doing on her is just little stuff. Got the fog lights mounted on the pushbar and the headlights re-wired onto relays straight of the battery. Bit the bullet and got a wide band A/F meter installed. I need to clean up the mounting of all the extra gauges I have on her. Vacuum, A/F, oil pressure, coolant temp, trans temp, volt meter. The console and dash look pretty redneck right now. I'll have to do before and after pix of dash and console to show what I mean! lol Yeah... I'm a gadgit freak!! lol Chasing a pretty big voltage drop from battery fuse block. Factory volt meter says aaround 10vdc when running and battery is at 14vdc give or take load. Working on a set of 4" stacks for her. Hoping to lower the exhaust note a bit. The split 6 crackle is really pronounced with the 3" stacks. I don't mind but I get some pretty strange looks from people and I don't want to be too obnoxious. Hoping to get a couple 'warm' days so I can work in the driveway on the carb adjustments and timing advance and verify the carb synch. I've gotten to be a wuss about working on that type of stuff when it's below freezing outside. ;)

My first thought would be that the clutch has started to drag ever so slightly. If you can force it into gear with continued pressure it could be just the friction of the syhchros finally overcoming the drag so it goes into gear. Does it exhibit the same issue if the rig is stopped, engine off with trans in neutral and trying to put it in 1st or 2nd? Granted you may have to rock it to get the gears to mesh but once you do then you should be able to put it in gear easily. If it still takes the same amount of force to get it in gear then yes the gear oil may be an issue. I've lived in north Idaho or north west Montana all my life and only once have I had an issue with the gear oil being too thick in cold weather. That was cuz of a big error on my part of adding a half a bottle of STP in my full synchro 3 speed. I had to drive a block or two before I could even move the shifter. Just something to think about.

Nope. There is a black line that comes from the vacuum canister and is the vacuum source going into the inside controls. There is a white line that comes out very close to the black one and the white one goes to the heater vacuum control. The thing on the end of the blue line is a one way valve. If you follow those colored lines shown in your photo, one direction goes to the tcase and the other ends up at the axle disco. The colors are a coincidence.

That blue line isn't supposed to be plugged into anything. It is a 'vent/breather' line for the transfer case vacuum lines. Red is the vacuum source for the tcase to switch, green and yellow work the disco and the white one goes to a vacuum switch that turns the 4x4 light on in the dash. :)

A 3" tip wouldn't alter the sound at all. If you want to do that make that 3" section about a 36" section of 3" pipe and it will deepen the exhaust note very noticeablly!!

When I had my exhaust built from the Clifford dual outlet headers back to the stacks it cost me right at $200, with a balance pipe AND tied into the factory exhaust hanger at the CAT flange and the utilizing the factory tail pipe hanger to support the mufflers. If I had wanted the pipes clear back to the rear bumper it was another $125. Pretty much any muffler place in this area could do it for those prices. The REAL performance exhaust shops wouldn't even touch it for me. Different areas of the country obviously!!! I have no rattling exhaust pipes. There's plenty of room over the x member on my MJ for some reason. A little trick I noticed on mine was that to keep the pipes from possibly rattling together they put short pieces of about 1/4" round stock between the pipes at the mid point between the support points and welded the 1/4" rod to both pipes so the can't touch each other. Neat, cheap fix!! :) Going from 2 into 1 and back into 2 kills the real sound of an inline 6 with a split manifold. It doesn't sound bad at all but you lose the split manifold sound!!