sloride

You might have to do this. I did it on mine, worked. http://comancheclub.com/topic/35327-ax15-swap-back-up-light-wiring/page__hl__ax15

http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/dash-removal-35444/

My experience has been you have to drop the dash. I would have loved not to do that. Defrost reveal molding pops off easily. Get a flex spring driver to get to the screws at the top of the dash especially the ones driver side are a bear to get to. I replaced the Phillips screws with square head screws got ease of assembly. Take center console out if you have one. Drop the "knee knocker" panel that goes side to side. Drop the steering column, two fasteners. Loosening side wall braces when you do that. Loosen two screws on lower each side of dash. Your dash will be loose at this point. Protect top of steering column from scratches because your dash will leave its mark if you're not careful. There's a right up with pics I have somewhere that someone did. If I can find it I'll post it.

I have to assume '91s are the same as '88 when it comes to HVAC lines under the dash. When I dropped my dash, I found out the hard way there was a vacuum-hose-two-into-one splice that I separated by mistake. Only after buttoning everything up did I realize my controls didn't function as before. If you have that splice, tape it up with electrical tape or heat shrink them together. It not hard to miss. The tubes are resting on top of your heater/ac box. When you drop your dash, you'll see what I'm talking about.

Not sure you'll get a definitive answer of what's the best heater core to buy. I think they're all chicom made anymore. At least the ones I've come across are made over there....... If you're changing the heater core you might consider changing the a/c evaporator, provided you have a/c.

Don, I vote you replace everything so you reduce the possibility of your compressor Shooting craps from the dreaded 'black death'. Small price to pay for piece of mind starting with a whole new system.

I used naval jelly on a set of Keystone Klassic wheels I had back in late '70s. Worked great. But for what you're doing, I'd use something like Por-15 rust inhibitor.

Brake rotor dust shield bent rubbing on rotor? I had that happen.

Nine bulbs seems to ring a bell but I had a tach gauge cluster I was installing at the time so I counted to make sure before I ordered bulbs. I remember reading somewhere not to get bulbs for your blinkers and bright light bulb. After installing my LED bulbs I could see why that would be an issue since they are so bright and would blind like the Vegas strip.

I started my led conversion by wanting to do white face gauges. When I bought the white face gauge package I opted for their LED bulbs. They will tell you size you need as well as the quantity and colors available.

Whitegauges.net That's where I got my LEDs. Love em. You won't need LEDs for your bright or turn signal lights.

That is correct. It was an option, to have a passenger side mirror.

That's pretty sweet. Good job!

Sorry, misunderstood.

I used a 90degree brass street elbow when I installed my new sending unit.

Loose or disconnected antenna wire??

Had the same them happen recently. It was the flasher relay at the fuse box.

Thanks for the kind words, guys.

General rule of thumb when assembling to parts using fasteners is 1/8 under. So if the holes are 1/2" you use 3/8" fasteners. Doesn't mean you have to, but it's usually industry standard to go 1/8" undersized.

Someone else will have to chime in since I don't have any experience getting to the vacuum reservoir. I just know it looks like a real PITA to get to. Try doing a forum search to see if any tips/tricks pop up.

http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/dash-removal-35444/ Here's an idea what you have to go through to work on your dash. Granted, this guy took his dash out completely, you won't have to do all what he did. There's two fasteners, one at each door jamb, that the dash will 'hinge' down to grant you access. That is after you take off all the necessary fasteners.

Has your dash ever been dropped that you know of? Unless your dash has been tampered with in the past, I would eliminate all other possible leak options before you think about your dash. Answer to your question. I will tell you no, you can't check the lines behind your dash without dropping the dash. Even without a radio I could barely see back behind the dash let alone get my hand back there. Those lines that operate your selector switch by vacuum are bound together in a plastic wire loom. At least mine has the loom. And Red Rocker79 is correct, there is a splice within that loom (one into two line) that is touchy. I dropped my dash for heater/ac work earlier this year and during the process unknowingly separated that splice. Only after much cigar smoke and pulling vacuum did I drop the dash again to inspect those lines.

:agree: Once you get the brackets off, its straight forward what you'll have to do. Back in '96, when the truck was 8years old, I took a fender flare off and the studs snapped off then, but you could get dealer replacements. I know I'll run into the same problem when I take my fender flares off to do some needed body work. I plan to weld new studs to the brackets or weld cap screws in place..... Just take your time and think through it.

I'd vote its your door jamb switch since you say you cleaned and tested it recently. Somehow its grounding or having a closed switch condition with your doors closed. I've never had any luck making old door switches work by cleaning them, so I just replace them with new. I have experienced over tightening the nut on some can cause the switches to fault or stay closed, but I haven't had much experience with jeep door switches, if there's a difference at all.

From firewall side, disconnect vacuum lines going into cab and try pulling vacuum with vacuum hand pump mity vac gauge. If there's no vacuum then your hose is disconnected somewhere.