johnj92131

Don, Good information about Chevron Delo 400LE and Shell Rotella! I still have quite a few gallons of VW diesel specific oil in the garage Both Delo and Rotella are great oils for gas or diesel. Instead of saying zinc additives went away, I should have said zinc content was greatly reduced.

Dirty, Please tell me where/how you got the gauge into the clock panel? I would like to mount an EGT gauge in that location. Thanks,

Lots of endless debates all over the internet about oil. Here is what I "think" I now. 1) More oil takes longer to warm up the oil to operating temperature. 2) Below operating temperature oil means more engine friction drag than operating temperature oil. It also means more H2O in the oil longer. 3) Modern oil is engineered to specific SAE Grades or performance standards. Zinc additives went away due to their ill effects on catalytic convertors 4) Oil additive packages in modern oils wear out with use. How much? That depends on engine conditions and engine use 5) Oil picks up byproducts of engine combustion and wear particles: It is the garbage collector for your engine's insides. Even with a bigger garbage collector you still need to throw out the garbage in the can every so often. 6) Modern oils do a much better job at just about everything than the oils of the 1960's. Proof is how long the average car engine runs now vs. the 60's

Looks to me like these are supposed to fit the 84-96 XJ/MJ: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/gctent?section=84-96+Switch+Panels&s=0

Check out this link for the answer to your question from our DIY section: But good luck finding a decent 1st generation Dakota rear bumper.

Filled the truck with diesel for the first time since it arrived in California on Sunday. 20.5 gallons and about $72. $3.56/gallon? Odometer read 133000 km when I filled it. I was filled in Michigan last September at about 132,165 km. So that is 835 km or about 519 miles on 20.5 gallons = 25.3 mpg. Now, remember that the tires on the car are 235/75 x 15 instead of the stock 195/75 x 15 and that this tank of fuel included a lot of engine testing and tuning. Clutch is still an issue, but I am putting some miles on the truck and just watching the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder. Wishing and a hoping it is just air in the line and that I can eventually bleed it all out.

PC06: I like the punch/chisel holder. Good safety tool. Don't forget gloves when you hold the tool. Helps reduce the shock to the hands.

WOW. Love the documentation! Very pleased to see this follow up. Do you still own and drive this truck? Should be a Comanche of the year!

235/75 x 15 interfere with the stock lower control arms. My 91 metric ton/bigton came from factory with 225/75x15 tires. 195/75 x 15 we're also factory stock on my 86 diesel Comanche.

Much the same price as my 91 base truck at 15K. I remember Don A Vee from the 1970's and 80's. Are they still in business?

Question? What are you towing? Years ago my truck had factory door mounted big flat mirrors. They vibrated like crazy. Replaced them with stock XJ mirrors, the purchased a set of clampon mirrors that fit over The stock xk mirrors. Not any better. Finally installed 97+ xj mirrors. Working very well for past 6-7 years.

One of the problems with working on old cars: We never really know what "improvements" have been made by previous owners/mechanics along the years. To quote from "Forest Gump": Life is a box of chocolates, you never know what you will get. Or something like that.

Ordered from Amazon today. Now I need the matching Porno Red paint for the interior. Then I can hook up the EGT and the 0-30 lbs boost gauge.

Spoke with a buddy today who suggested the hydraulic clutch line was the cause of the contamination and the source of the leak. So the search is on for a replacement clutch line.

My USB inspection camera had problems getting past the steel lines to inside the bell housing. So I will be looking for a different inspection solution. Here is a picture I took after bleeding the clutch the last time: Here is what it looks like today after a few days of light use: Clutch is still working fine right now. I am going to top off the master and drive it some more. Yes, the color of the fluid has changed from clear to a gray color. So far, I have not spotted the location of the leak.

Hope you let him know you are doing the roll bar brackets and let him do the speaker stuff. Works better that way. Rather than 2 guys doing the same thing.

You need to take the cover off to look at the tilt mechasim. Then you need to work on the rear of the seat back that you are having a problem tilting forward. Not saying you can't work on it - but pull the seat and give yourself some room to work

What a great story! Please do keep us posted. I say keep it Renix! But you have the H.O. and I "Assume" a supply/source of H.O. parts? If so then just go with what you can support. Oh Yes - Take a trailer so you can get it home with minimal effort and RISK.

Tom, I just checked the price list on the Arkansas Pick & Pull location for a bucket seat price: $29.95 each for manual, non leather. So the price is not far out of reasonable. Personally, I think you should take the pair and see about fixing the tilt forward mechanism. I have seen a few how to articles on the web.

I remember failing my smog test 8 years (?) ago and having to replace the convertor. Once that was done I passed smog. Don't recall any noise, but I am half deaf. But at 200K miles, your cat likely needs to be replaced. Suggest you pick up a cheap stethoscope to try localize the noise.

Question - are these 4 x 6 Truck-lites you have linked going to require modifications to the Waggy front end? H4703/H4701 dimensions I find on web are 92 mm by 150 mm. 4" x 6" = 101.6 mm x 152.4 I ask because I also have a Waggy front end in the garage for possible use on 86 Comanche.

Hood prop is also in a different location. The 91 has hood prop on passenger side of engine compartment The 86 diesel has hood prop on front of radiator

Congratulations.

THIS is very important! Do not skip this step. When I installed Grand Cherokee seats in my 91 Comanche, I used lots of different spacers and several "C" clamps to secure the seats while I tested the fit and range of seat adjustment. Both front to back and side to side. I also adjusted the "tilt" of the seat base with spacers till I got that right. Only then did I do the final bolt down of the seat. With that done, I have been very pleased with the Grand Cherokee seats for several years. But I sure like the idea of the Dakota center console and think the Dakota seats are a great choice. Maybe if I could find them in porno Red, I would put them in the 86 diesel.

Cruiser, I am "thinking" most of the electronics are NLA. Just like Monday when I called the dealer looking for a new Mopar master and slave cylinder - the are NLA. One advantage to the Renix engine control system is the knock sensor, generally good for better mpg by at least 1 mpg.