86FUBAR

Well when I lifted my jeep the first time I didn't have rear shocks for about 3 months and it drove quite well though I did have a rear add a leaf installed that made it alot stiffer , I don't know if that made a difference or not but it sure didn't feel " dangerous" as y'all make it sound . And the last time I lifted my jeep ( the same truck ) I again didn't have rear shocks right away and although it didn't get very many miles on it the second time around it still drove fine . Now when I drove the same truck around with no front shocks after second lift (only around the yard a bit ) it was fun but felt unbelievable dangerous and defeinetly not recomended . So there's my 2 cents.

Did you by chance swap axles at the same time , d35 to d44 , it looks like the d35 but not sure. If you did the d44 is like an 1"-1/4 to 1"1/2 longer at the pinion .

Thanks ! As for the shocks they are inboarded like that for better performance , when the shocks are in the stock location they work well for normal driving but when you start to flex the shocks will bind at the mounting points as they wernt exactly designed to travel at such angles. by inboarding the shocks they won't bind during articulation as the shock is traveling in the same uppward arch as the axle making for more un restricted flex . the cons of this is the shock travel is efectivly shortened the further you lay the shock at an angle , the most common problem with this setup is people some times put the shocks to close together at the top which realy makes the shocks useless . My shocks are 11" stroke and I utilize 10 inches of that wile wheeling , some poeple don't agree with this style but it works well I think however it isn't for all trucks like say a prerunner or other go fast trucks

Yum copenhagen! Ya that's a 2 can trip easy , looks like it was a fun one . The longest trip iv ever done in the manch was a 300 mile round trip.

Well not much new on the truck, I did do some track bar bracket mods as I missed a measurement some where and it was a a little longer than needed and even though it wasn't noticeable it bugged me so I shortened it and added some gussets . I still need to make the brace from the other side of the frame to the bracket but it works for now . Next is to try the air soft beads in the tires as they need it but realy only when there is mud in the rim.

Meh, I don't care for the looks all that much with that plastic thing behind the cab . It looks like those ghey wing/vent things all the vatos put on the trucks down here but I do like the fact that it has a solid back window as fiddeling with soft windows gets old quick.

Ya know you could probably get the rear shafts redrilled to the smaller 5-4.5 and if not purchas some and as for the front early dodge ramchargers came with a 5-4.5 lug on a Dana 44 . I don't know the cut off years or weather other dodge trucks came with that but I got 2 ramchargers and one is converted to the 5-5.5 and the other is stock with 5-4.5 .

Not really. Jim is saying good bye to this single Jeep not all Jeeps as you are referring. I think you deserve the :fool: O ok thanks for clearing that up for me ! :shake: , glad we straightened that out.

So one guy says bye to jeeps and now all the crazies come out the wood works and jump on the band wagon , well it makes me sick ! :fool:

Ah but I have had crab in Maryland and oysters and what ever else I could get my hands on , but that was like 14 years ago when I was in 8th grade.

Crab fishing !! I went out today with my budy that just got setup with 7 crab pots and for our first time out we managed to score 50 crab . Wow what a great time we had even though it is a lot of work compared to the rock cod , sea bass and salmon we normally go for but it all evens out as we were done fishing by 10:30 this morning when normally we are on the water until 4 or 6 oclock and the best part is that we had no fish to clean ! Which can be quite a job . And yes I know I need pics but I gota figure out how to get them off my phone first.

DAMN IT !!! the one time randomly I'm stuck workin late and i missed it , i mean iv been home fer about an hour but ya know had to have dinner with the wife and kids but i didnt remember there was gona be a time limit but o well next week sounds just as good . so in the mean time .................. :cheers:

Here is the schematic for the califorina model with the manual and here is the schematic for the califorina mode with an auto and the last one is everything except califorina and canada i hope this helps

!!!! Hell ya !!!! :cheers: :banana: :jump: WE DID IT , that was Awsome !!

i picked this gem up at the local Tractor Supply it cost me 90 bones on sale and a coworker found his online for 80 bones with free shiping , i got it mainly to keep in my Power Wagon but it is definetly beefy for any situation. 6"x30' = 55000 pounds of pulling power! http://www.tractorsupply.com/trailers-t ... bs-3040114

or you could get rid of those pesky rockers and take the plunge and install some "cut out rock sliders" , best of all is my passenger slider doubles as my air tank

yes many open and closed systems use an in tank cooler . As for a cheaper alternative i have found that the trany cooler out of ford diesel vans have a nice ( yes many other vehicles other than the fords use these but this is what i deal with at work so....) size and large mounting tabs that modify easily . if you can find a sutable cooler out of a doner vehicle in the junk yard just make sure you clean it out well from both ends a couple of times and when running the lines from the trany to the cooler use as much hard line as possible .

This is what i did to my manch , the back lower portion was already trimmed , and i did this trim job caus of the 35's that i installed the holes showen are located directly above the factory holes for the flare retainer brackets , i drilled those to keep the inner fender well atached to the outer fender i later installed pop rivets in the holes

Exactly my thoughts. dude you need to get your priorties straight :doh:

It sounds like you warped the front rotors , this is a common problem when the brakes get over heated . you could turn them but most people advise against that besides rotors are cheap enuf that its easyer to just replace them and possibly upgrade to some vented rotors to help prevent it from happening again . as far as isolating front to back you could slowly apply the parking brake wile moving and see if the backs shutter at all but most likely its the front rotors. also rember that when working with the brakes to always replace parts in pairs , so do both rotors and not just one

Yes its possible to use some f150 parts to lift the jeep buy the ride will be really rough , besides you could find most everything you need in our clasifieds section . as for the engine swap get your self a 3.4 v6 from a 93-95 camaro and be done with it , yes you will have to get the flywheel neutraly balanced and add an electric fuel pump as there is no provisions for the mechanical fuel pump but it is prity easy over all . As for the "cut out rock sliders" thats a little more involved but still verry doable , and the electrical issues first check all the fuses and conections then check all ground conections (maby someone else will chime in on where those are located) and the play in the steering is probably mostly in the track bar at the frame side followed by the steering TRE and to the ball joints , try having someone wiggle the steering wheel side to side wile you lay under the front and inspect the joints for play . take a look at my build thread as i have done most of what your looking to do viewtopic.php?f=7&t=5484

My 2.8L has a distributor and I'm using it on the 3.4L ok here maby this will help , strait out of Alldata Disconnect electrical connector from ignition coil. Disconnect electrical leads to ignition switch and tachometer, if equipped. Using a suitable screwdriver, rotate distributor cap latches counterclockwise, then remove distributor cap and position out of way. Disconnect vacuum hose from vacuum advance unit, if equipped. Mark position of distributor rotor to distributor housing and position of distributor housing to engine. Remove distributor hold down clamp bolts and hold down clamp. Carefully pull distributor upward until rotor stops turning counterclockwise and again mark position of rotor to distributor housing. Remove distributor from engine. Reverse procedure to install, aligning positioning marks made during removal. After completing installation, check ignition timing. If engine was disturbed while distributor was removed, proceed as follows: Remove spark plug from No. 1 cylinder. With finger positioned over No. 1 spark plug opening, slowly rotate engine until compression is felt. Align timing mark on damper with TDC mark on timing degree scale. Position rotor at a point between No. 1 and No. 3 spark plug terminals on distributor cap for 4-151 engines. For V6-173 engines, position rotor at a point between No. 1 and No. 2 spark plug wire terminals on distributor cap. Install distributor on engine and complete installation.

:hmm: I don't rember , whats it matter anyhow? besides yer gona be using all the 2.8 ignition stuff as the 3.4 uses distributorless ignition and just has the bottom part of a distributor to drive the oil pump where the dizzy goes .

Well since iv contemplated this decision once or twice lately mostly since iv just come off a month and a half long binge (3 weddings 3 weekends in a row 2 of which i was the best man plus the batchaler partys and 4 birth days and one clamper meeting ) (clampers is a historical drinking soceity for short) and i was hamered at least 5 out of 7 nights through out so I say yer gona make it to thanks giving as thats when all the family gets together and partys . Me and the wife have had talks about my drinking but thats just how me and my family is and she new this coming in and we both figure as long it dosnt become a real problem that inter fears with work or family then its all good . Now that I'm older (27 years old by the way) with 2 kids i will usualy try and not drink for a couple days after a long weekend or a whatever just to let my body recover and because i know i don't need to drink like a fish all the time . But if you think yer problem is bigger than maby quiting is a good idea but thats up to you . mason

I deffinetly noticed a difference when i switched to the centerforce and it was a welcome change for me and when i do dd the manch on occasion its streetable maners are great and not graby at all except when i want it to be :D but rember iv got gears ,lockers and 35" so its gona act a bit different than stock . the bottom line is stick with the stock stuff as it will do you just fine however if you really want the "cool stuff" and can learn NOT to RIDE the CLUTCH its not gona hurt either . either way the trany is probably gona crap out befor either one of those clutches gives out