Keyav8r

To correct my original post, I received a copy of the '91 Electrical/Heating-AC/ Emissions FSM and the Wiring Diagrams Supplement from Rich when I bought the MJ. I plan to scan the Wiring Diagram Supplement as it isn't very thick. I believe one of our members offered to host technical information on his business server. If that's the case, I'll send it to him so everyone can have access. I'm willing to scan the electrical manual but that may take some time and will be a really big file to upload/download. Could possibly burn it to CD. 87Warrior - how much was the digital FSM and is it a true copy? I'm planning on keeping this truck for a long time (will be my retirement truck, if I ever retire) and I want to be able to keep it in first class condition. Rich gave me a big head start on that with all he did to it

I have downloaded all of the Renix info (FI manual, electrical manual, etc.) for my '88. But now I have a '91 with an HO engine. Are there any manuals available on the forum for the HO MJs?

Trust me, it is a TOTAL PITA to do it without the tool, I speak from experience and have the screwdriver scars to prove it!

When Mama is happy, everybody is happy! Good move, Darren.

Yeah, there is. That's why I'm buying my second one in two years. Gotta admit the second one's in a lot better shape than the first one.

Invest $300 to $400 in a MIG welder (you want one, anyway) and fab some brackets to mount almost any seats you want into your MJ. It may take a couple of tries to get it exactly like you want it. If you already have 4 door XJ buckets, you can use them until you find some two door buckets, either MJ/XJ or something else.

Finding JY doors shouldn't be a problem but, from the looks of the rocker, the "B" pillar is probably bent. From the little I can see of it, the interior looks pretty good. Just the right color buckets and console for my MJ - Ooops, did I type that? It was just a random thought. Glad to hear you're moving to the good side of the Mason-Dixon line. You'll like it down here!

I'm with Hornbrod on avoiding drilling through the frame. If the broken bolts are stick out from the frame surface, you may be able to weld nuts on them and get them out. Otherwise, try drilling them out and cleaning the threads up with a tap. Start with a small drill and work your way larger until you can see the edges of the threads. Then use a starter tap to try to clear whats left of the bolt out of the threads. Best case, the remains of the old bolts will come out and you can keep it stock. Worst case, you'll have to drill through and use the longer bolts. If so, be careful that you don't over-torque and distort the frame section.

This one worked. Where is it?

Neither one worked for me.

Picked up a wood grain bezel at P&P for my '88. Gonna put that puppy on, if I ever get the dash back in. Picked up several other little upgrades for the MJ there. Now I've just got to get it all back together and running so I can install everything. Why is it every time you fix one thing you discover two more that need to be fixed?

Trussville, AL - Pueblo, CO - Trussville, AL: 42 hours minimum drive time 2,500 miles minimum At 20 mpg (which my Silverado doesn't get), 125 gallons at nominal $3.50/gallon - $437.50 minimum fuel cost I'm sure there's some great stuff up for grabs and the fuel cost would almost surely be worth what might be left by the time I could get there. However, at my age that much driving time is a flat NO GO. Maybe when I was 40 or maybe even at 50, but now - aint gonna happen. Jim, I surely appreciate the offer but don't believe my a$$ could endure that much saddle time!

Jim - I'd surely like to help you out but it's a little bit of a drive from AL. I'm afraid the fuel bill would be greater than the value of the the "good stuff" I could haul away.

That's the ticket! Internal medication!

There is a product called Technu that works pretty well. They have a defensive cream to rub on before doing yard work, brush clearing, etc. And they have a foaming soap for use after suspected contact that breaks the oils down. Any time I'm back in the tree/hedge patch in our back yard I go into the garage and wash hands, arms, face and neck with the soap (after taking off outer layer of clothes and turning them inside out to avoid contact when putting them in the washer). It's worked so far this year (knock on wood, etc.). IT should be available at pharmacies, in the same area they keep the calamine lotion and cortisone creams. I make it through the summer if I can just remember to wash immediately after any possibility of being near the stuff. Had it on my face two years ago and have some scars as little reminders.

Hornbrod, it seems to work the same for me. I can almost just look at the stuff and break out in a rash of blisters. Bought a gallon of poison oak/ivy/sumac killer and i spray everything with three leaves (or two or four, just to be safe) before I do any clearing in our giant patch of hedge. Wear long pants, long sleeve shirt and gloves and still manage to get it on me somewhere. It's been a while since I've had a case of it like yours, but I've been there, brother (including the privates) - important lesson, don't urinate in the woods while clearing brush! Don't ask, you can figure it out. My doc gave me a prescription for oral steroids to take for a small outbreak so I could avoid going in for the shot. I've used it already this year.

Thanks for the video. Looks like the bubble flare isn't as hard to do as I thought it would be. I believe I'll pick up some new tubing and fab up a set of lines. Need to replace my LF line from the block to the rubber hose, also.

Can you get a decent double flare tool for $20? Where? Yeah, I noticed the bubble flare fittings on the MC are metric and different sizes (I guess so you can't cross connect) and the fittings on the block are standard (and now know they're double flares). Guess I'll make another pass at the P&P for some more lines to cannabalize. I Whatever I do it will be flared, not compression. Not going to intentionally endanger others or myself.

I'm in the process of installing a '96 dual diaphragm booster in my '88 MJ. The '96 master cylinder has bubble flares on the lines. As I have no clue how to create bubble flares and don't want to buy the tool to do them, I'm going to reuse the old lines at the MC. The lines at the distribution block/proportioning valve look like single flares, could be double flares. (Does anyone know if they are single or doubled flared?) So, my options are to either cut the existing lines and splice them together with flared unions or make new lines for the block (if they are single flared) and splice them to the MC lines. Suggestions?

One thing i have been told is that if there is a home invasion and you believe your life is in danger, shoot without a warning and empty the gun. That will be considered proof that you were in fear for your life. If you warn the invader that you will shoot if they do not leave, it can be construed as premeditation and raise questions that you had options. Make sure you put the invader down permanently so that he and some left wing lawyer can't sue you for his injuries, pain and suffering, etc. His family may come after you, but there will be no one to refute your testimony. I go back to the old saying - "I'd rather be tried by twelve than carried by six".

Not sure about the spring thing, but the butterfly in the throttle bodies on both my MJ and my Silverado are tilted. If you pulled the disc out, it would have an oval shape to close the round bore at an angle.

I had a 4.0 V-6 Ranger with a 5 speed, think it was a '93. Good engine and tranny but I had to put a clutch in it at around 100 K miles. My son-in-law bought it when I got a GMC and he put another 80 K on it before trading it in. No experience with the Ford auto or 4WD. You coulda done worse, Jim.

By the time someone went to JY, pulled the brackets (assuming the studs didn't break in the process), paid the JY for them and the shipped them to you - $20 each would probably be close to a break even deal, not counting the labor. IMHO - buy the new brackets and avoid the hassle.

From his original post, he's left it off in case the clutch master leaks in the future. I'm with you, though. If it looks suspicious, replace it before putting the fuse panel back in place.

Would the op get any fluid from the HPV if he hasn't opened a front bleeder and hit the pedal hard to simulate a front brake failure? When I got my MJ it was braking on the fronts only and after reading posts on the forum I'm pretty sure the PO did not bleed the system correctly. I have replaced my calipers, rear wheel cylinders, and all brake hoses and have a 96 DD booster to install. I plan to keep my HPV if I can get the system bled well enough. If not, I'll go with the Wildwood prop valve. Hornbrod has a good post on adjusting the HPV for optimal braking balance (after proper bleeding).