Keyav8r

I was able to re-use the thermistor probe when I did the ‘91s A/C. I have one on the shelf with the used evaps. I couldn’t find new evaps or thermistors when I was looking around 2 years back. However, I don’t remember if I checked Team Cherokee. If I had been able to find them I would have paid the price because I did NOT want to have to pull the dash again.

I believe I collected the ones I have from pre ‘90 XJs when I had the ‘88 MJ. I think the ‘91 Eliminator had them when I got it from Rich, but since I have CRS and I’ve slept since then I can’t be 100% sure about that. I’ll take another look at them to see if the plugs are all the same.

That’s definitely different than either the ‘88 or the ‘91 I had, both of which had factory air.

Fernando87mj - The two parts I couldn’t find new when I was doing the A/C on my ‘91 were the evaporator and one of the hoses. Those I picked at a Pull-A-Part from XJs that still had pressure on the system (showed that the evaporator and hose were good). Can’t remember which hose I couldn’t find. I believe the factory evaporators were the same ‘88 - ‘91, possibly ‘87 also. Actually, I’ve got a couple of used evaporators left that I think are good. I tested them by putting 125 PSI air pressure in them and submerging them to look for bubbles. The problem is that there are few ‘87 - ‘91 XJs showing up in the junkyards, at least around here. There is a thermistor (?) that inserts into the evaporator. I don’t have that part as they tend to break or pull apart when you try to remove them. Couldn’t find that new either. I can send you a photo of the ones I have so you can see if yours is the same. Getting the right size O-ring for each joint is very important as the joint will leak if the O-ring is not correct. I think I bought 3 packs of O-rings to get enough of the right ones. Hopefully, Minuit will cover that in his write-up.

Knucklehead - PM sent.

Definitely do the headlight relay harness first. Not only does it improve the headlight output but, even better, it takes the amperage off the headlight switch. Even if it did nothing for the headlights, it’s worth it to prevent a potential fire. You can buy a pre-made harness or make up your own. I believe one of our members posted his harness build.

If you need some of them, I have a few pair with brackets.

There are a couple of members with A/C knowledge who helped me when I was working on my ‘91’s A/C. One is Marine1Texas and the other is Noritake (can’t remember the other part of his handle). Haven’t seen posts from either lately, but then I don’t read everything that’s posted.

I took a set of taillights apart by heating the backs with a heat gun. You have to be careful as the black plastic backs will distort if you get them too hot (don’t ask how I know). Someone had a post about heating them in an oven but don’t remember who it was. Once you have them apart you can clean them well, even polish the inside of the back-up lens. It’s not easy too do as it is not a smooth surface. I sprayed the inside of the backs with some “chrome” paint to improve reflectivity. You can polish the outside of the lens with plastic polish (others have used very fine sandpaper prior to polishing) to get rid of the oxidation then spray it with a clear coat to keep it from oxidizing again. There should be several posts on refurbishing taillights. And, switching to LED bulbs would help.

If I don’t recognize the number, I don’t answer. If they don’t leave a voicemail, I block the number (on my cell phone). AT&T has a no cost service you can sign up for that identifies telemarketers and tells you what they are. You may not even have to sign up for it. Our land line is with Charter/Spectrum so the calling number shows up on the TV and, again, if we don’t recognize it, we don’t answer it. I’m seeing more calls with my area code and number prefix, indicating that the anal orifices are getting more sophiscated.

Both links now say SOLD.

Reading on some of the landscaping and mower manufacturer’s websites, the recommendation is to sharpen your mower blades with a file rather than a bench grinder. They say it’s easy to get the blade too hot on a grinder which can soften the cutting edge. i just bought a new Honda mower and I plan to try the file method with it. Always used a bench grinder before.

Reminds me of one time when I was much younger going raccoon hunting. “Just drive on through that puddle, there’s tire tracks on both sides.” Our tracks stopped about 3 feet into the puddle with water up to the head lights on a 2WD Chevy pickup. No winch. No tow chain/strap (not my truck). We got it out and that was my first and last “Coon hunt”.

NO! JUST NO!

I was passing a guy in a Tesla on the interstate the other day and when I looked over I saw he had his seat pushed back and was texting on his phone. Not touching the wheel and never looked up. I punched the hemi and got the H away from the idiot. Apparently, more money than brains.

If I had been on that rig I would have been squinched so tight you couldn’t have driven a 10 penny nail up my anal orifice with a 20 lb. sledge hammer. I imagine the two cases of beer had a relaxing effect.

I think UPS and FedEx are partnering with the USPS for some deliveries to residential addresses. I know I’ve seen a lot of Post Office trucks running nights and weekends, especially during the Christmas season. Several of my online purchases have been delivered by USPS and I use the flat rate boxes often when I ship.

I just read the writer’s original request and saw nothing to get my shorts all bunched up. If you’re a good writer you research your topic, which is what he is attempting to do. Thanks to Rokinn for linking to some of the guy’s previous work so we who wish to can see his style. Thanks to Pete for his reasoned and reasonable response.

My 2014 Ram 5.7 Hemi has the cylinder de-activation (Eco mode) feature that shuts down 4 cylinders when cruising at light load. It will go into Eco at 70-75 MPH on flat sections. It does not have the auto engine shut-down when stopped feature. I understand that cars/trucks with the auto shutdown also have a setting that disables it. My choice will be Ram when/if I replace this one. The dial shifter took a short time to get used to, but it hasn’t given me any problem. I’ve got 130+K miles on it and so far I’ve replaced the original battery, the fuel pump (actually only the fuel level sensor failed but replaced pump as insurance), and the front brakes are getting close to replacement. Previously drove GM trucks and had long service life and reasonable reliability but my Ram rides and handles much better. I’ve had other truck owners comment on the ride/handling/comfort. Above opinion is based on personal experience. Your ownership experience may vary based on geographic location, climate, road/highway conditions, vehicle mission and driving style.

As long and high as the front of that thing is there’s no way the driver would be able to see the road 100 ft., maybe more, ahead of the front bumper. The worst place to be would be directly in front of him at a stop light. That thing would drive over a full sized sedan without slowing down. But then, why should the sheik be concerned about running down a few of the commoners?

I have a set of S-K 3/8” and 1/2” ratchets and sockets I inherited from my father. They’re at least 50 years old and I use them on a fairly regular basis. I’ve lost a couple of sockets over the years that I replaced with other brands because I couldn’t find S-K locally. Recently my 1/2” ratchet just quit engaging. I went online, found S-K and ordered a ratchet repair kit. When it came in, I found they had sent a 3/8” repair kit. After a few colorful words, I took the 1/2” ratchet apart and found the mechanism was full of gunk. Cleaned everything up, lubricated and reassembled it and it’s good as new. I don’t know if currently available S-K tools are as good as my old set. Their current ratchets are a different design and look to me to be lighter duty. I don’t think Craftsman is the same now as their old stuff either. I know I sound like an Olde Pharte when I say they don’t make them like they used to, but I believe it’s true. You have to take a hard look at the tools and the warranty support and then make a judgement call. If you make your living with your tools, you have a higher expectation of quality than someone who uses their tools occasionally. Bottom line still is that you pay for what you get.

We’ve had about 6” of rain around here in the last week or two. Almost (repeat almost) to the point of wishing some of it was snow.

Eagle, you know it is strictly against Olde Pharte policy to have health crises. The primary reason it’s against the policy is that health crises are prone to end our runs as Olde Phartes. So, cut it out! PS: I’m sure that sucked (LOL).

Agree with Eagle, first crop.

At least he’s not advertising it for sale at $78,900.00!