Keyav8r

Apparently dash cams are widely used in Russia and some of the former Soviet states for the reason you are contemplating using one. Much of the video of the meteor that hit over there came from dash cams. The explanation for the proliferation of dash cams is terrible drivers, lax traffic law enforcement, high cost of repairs and potential use of the footage in litigation. Had not heard that personal traffic video was illegal in some states. What's the deal with audio on the video being a problem?

Yeah, if they all got a Comanche that would reduce Jim's stable down to around 75 or so.

Hmmmm. Don't remember what year XJs I pulled the under dash lights from. I'll have to do a comparison between the 88 and the 91 to see which ones I have. Pulled them every time I saw them at P&P for a while so I may have some from both eras. And, I have a supply of insulated connectors if I need to cut and splice

My 88 D35 does not have C-clips in the differential, just the bearing retainers at the backing plate. Take off 4 nuts and pull the axle out.

You say you tried adjusting tension at the rear brakes. Do you mean you adjusted the rear brakes and that didn't help? When you replaced the parking brake cables at the rear did you adjust the cable that comes from the parking brake to the bracket where the two rear cables mount? The rod on the end of the cable should have a nut and a locknut. Jack up the rear axle until both tires are off the ground and put jack stands under the axle. With your parking brake off, spin the wheels to see if you have any brake drag. Hold the front of the rod with an adjustable wrench or vise grips and loosen the locknut. Tighten the other nut to put tension on the rear cables. Spin each wheel until you hear or feel some (additional) drag. Set and release the parking brake and spin the wheels again. If still dragging, loosen the nut, set and release the parking brake, and spin the wheels again. If you still have drag, loosen the nut, etc, etc, again until you don't have any drag. Then tighten the locknut and you should have good parking brake pedal height.

Don't know where the post is but you can get the under dash lights from an XJ at the P&P. There is one screw that holds the metal bracket to the dash and a connector to fit the one under your dash. They should work off the door jamb switches and the headlight switch just as the B pillar lights do. I have a set to install in my 91 (probably after the holidays) and may have a spare set if you can't find any near you.

Akula69 had a post on rebuilding sending units but I can't find it at the moment.

Just saw your reply. Put in a new oil pump while you have the pan off. At the least, put a rebuild kit in the existing pump.

You can occasionally find one at the JY but they are usually in bad shape. The plastic coating gets cut or scratched and acid fumes from the battery get under the plastic and corrode the metal. Strip off all the plastic, blast or wire brush all the corrosion off, put on a heavy primer coat and good rust resistant paint. I plan to dip mine in Plasticoat after blasting.

The dimmer for the dash lights is built into the headlight switch. As said above, you pull the knob out to turn on parking lights (first step) then further out to turn on the headlights. Rotating the knob operates a rheostat that is built into the switch which dims or brightens the dash lights, depending on which way you turn it. If turned fully to the left, it should turn on the cab courtesy lights (B pillar lights and under dash lights). If you don't have the under dash lights, go to your local P&P and pull a set from a Cherokee. One screw holds the bracket to the dash and then disconnect the connector. Your truck should have the connectors behind the dash. Sorry, got a little off topic there. The separate dimmer switch advertised is probably the low beam/high beam switch for the head lights.

Good luck finding an HO sender. There may be a kind soul out there who will part with one fo the right trade but to be honest, if I ever find one I'll hoard it for a spare. Following your build thread. I would drive to Shelbyville to see the finished product.

Try the DIY Projects Section. I believe I saw something along those lines there.

Only problem I see is keeping the grit and metal fines you get from honing the cylinders and ridge reaming off the crank. If you can make sure that the main bearing seats are clean before you install new inserts you should be okay. I assume you are replacing all the bearings while you have it that far down. Good time to replace the RMS, check/replace the crank pulley, check/replace the timing chain and sprockets and front crank seal also (if needed).

AutoZone, Advance Auto, NAPA, O'Reily's, Rock Auto, local mom and pop auto parts - you can buy one at any of them. Got mine from Advance on one of their deals where you buy $100 and get a $50 coupon toward a future purchase (and free shipping over $75). They have buy $50 - get $25 coupon deals and 15% off deals frequently. You can buy online and pick up at your local store, also. Other stores may also offer equivalent deals.

Headlight switch?

Cruiser, hate to see you go because you and your posts/links have been invaluable as I've worked through my 88 MJ. Although I can understand the frustration that occurs when you tell them what you've learned through education and experience, other experienced owners (I call them the MJ gurus) confirm your statements, and then the the DAs argue with you because their brother-in-law's friend's sister's boyfriend's third cousin once saw one of them Cherokee pick-ups and said it don't work like that. You can teach the ignorant, but you can't cure stupid. Don't leave brother. Just take a break and come back when you feel like it.

Thanks, Don. Now for the grubby part - tracing wires and cleaning connectors and grounds.

Dang! Just re-read my Monday night post. Was way more tired than I thought. Probably will be a couple of weeks before I can get back on this project. May be even longer with Christmas and New Year holidays rapidly approaching. But, to confirm, does the ground wire soldered to the outside of the sending unit go through the harness to the ground behind the driver's side taillight?

Thanks, Don! I knew Incould count on you for solid 91 information. So the ground that's soldered to the outside of the senging unit/pump cover travels through the wiring harness t o the left reae taillight. I'll have to refresh that one and see if it has any effect. If not, I may jumper scross the connector to seme if that helps. Msy repest my continuos ground from the left taillight all the way to the to the negstive post on the bsttery with numerous body grounds along the way., semmed to clear up some problems unitntionally,,' Could not see a dash ground wire, maybe one's there, i'll search more diligently. TTFN - just got through installing a waterbheater and the old neburons aren' firing scross the synapses correctly.

Dropped the tank on my 91 to replace the tank vents which were leaking, solved that problem. The fuel gauge hasn't worked correctly since I've owned it. The gauge reading was floating from empty to about 1/3 tank regardless of the actual amount of fuel in the tank, but the low fuel light would come on when it actually got close to empty. While I had the tank out I checked the sending unit output and had 113-114 ohms with float down (empty) and 7-8 ohms with the float up (full) at the tank side connector. This is close to spec and the error may be from the Harbor Freight meter. I poured in about 10 gallons of gas and re-checked the reading at the tank side connector - 42-43 ohms. Cleaned the connectors as well as I could, plugged them back together, checked the gauge and it read about 1/3 tank. I'm thinking with a range of 110 empty to 3 full I should be seeing at or over 1/2 tank on the gauge. Tried to back probe the harness side of the connector but couldn't get a reading so I shaved off a little insulation and checked the ohm reading - 31-32 ohms. Losing about 10 ohms across the connector. At that ohms I should be indicating an even fuller tank. Insulated the wires I had shaved, buttoned everything back up, drove to the gas station and filled the tank. The gauge floated up to a little over 1/2 tank and floats between that and near empty as I drive around. I know I will need to check the wiring continuity and clean any additional connectors, but I'm wondering what else I may be missing. AFAIK, this is the original cluster. Should there be a ground strap/wire between the tank and the unibody? Should the 91 have a ground wire from the dash to the unibody like the Renix MJs? I can't spot one. I'm wondering if this could be a grounding issue as the voltmeter also doesn't work. Everything else on the truck works correctly. Any suggestions?

Congratulations to the War Eagles. Would have preferred a different outcome, but apparently the Tide didn't want it as badly as the Auburn players did. I guess you can't win the National Championship every year.

Oyaji - it's a pleasant thought in some ways.

Well said. We owe our freedoms to those who sacrifice to defend them.

Check eBay motors, I searched Jeep Comanche Interior Parts and think I saw a tan one one there. Maybe a little pricey.

A Very Happy Thanksgiving to all! While we are enjoying turkey, football, etc., let's remember and be thankful for all of our military and public safety personnel (and their families) who are standing ready to protect us from those who hate us because of the freedom we enjoy. May God bless and protect them.