mountainman

see! this^^^^ lol. But my reason for 6.5" was since i load it pretty heavy. And plan on sliders and bumpers and winches. It won't be a 6.5 once all the weight is on board. Ill be 35s or 37s once i do a real front axle. But for now, pavement princess status... 35s would look nice to wear down while I'm stashing the next round of mods. BUT 33s would drive nicer methinx. Another thing i know many are missing is.. i have HO/manual trans. I think many people speak of deeper gearing from an auto trans or renix standpoint. I have ridden in an auto/renix rig with big tire and it was a slug. He rode in my truck and went.. WTF. lol. The gear calculator shows i should be fine with 33s or 35s. Ill be at 2500ish rpm even headed toward 3k between 70 and 80. if the truck isnt responding i can just put it in 4th. The 4.11s won't be even close to how tall 3.07s are. Keep the thoughts comin. This is the only thing ive ever been indecisive on. I can't stand people who can't decide. lol. So this is killing me. hahahaa

Yes it is 2" of tire but you only gain 1" of ground clearance. For a DD I would go 33's, especially with only 4.10 gears. yup. my brain kicked in when i saw this. lol.

Pete it ends up being more like 2 inches of tire. Almost all 33s are 32.8 when brand new. Then they wear and you have 32s. 35s are all 34.8 new. Same thing happens. Tires kinda shrink and fatten up a bit once run a while. Looking at pics i love the way 35s look. And i have an LWB truck. Which makes 33s look small. Spending this much cash on lift, i want it to look clean as well as perform. So I'm leaning toward 35s and then if i dislike it, i can grab 33s. I will soon go D44 front and sliders and winches etc. Plan to do fordyce once i have some seat time with it all finished. 33s and LWB = massive belly dragging. My original idea was get 33s for now and go 35s when i head out to wheel. But my brain is locking up on that cause i simply love the way 35s look. So the point of this thread was to look for landslide vote. If everyone says...33s! then thats what id prob do. If everyone says 35s!!!! then of course that takes top spot. I havent ordered tires yet, so its in the air still as to what i will do. Thanks guys for all the input so far. Its helping.

Well its been a few years and some crazy life setbacks etc etc. I'm finally close to lifting my truck. 91 LWB manual trans. I have just about everything and going up 6.5"s 4.11 gears. D44 rear and 30 front for now. Now what i can't decide on is, 33s or 35s? I daily drive the truck and travel quite a bit in it. To go camping and visit family etc. My brain says run 33s and smile. My eyes say... NEED 35s! So id like to hear all of your thoughts. Call it a vote or whatever youd like. from those who have done both and can honestly say from experience what works best and or what is a pain in the @$$. Thanks manch family. Dave

I also need this info. I am about to travel 2k mile road trip, and my driver forward channel just fell out the other day. The wind noise SUCKS! So if anyone has any info on what to use at current, please post it here. :) I want to order some tmrw.

What did i miss? Why make a rack to haul stuff, then put the spare tire right in the middle of it? Rendering the rack useless. Make a carrier for the spare off the tailgate, or standing up in the bed off to one side. Or even float it off the back of the rack.

Stock system not tuned for boost. forget it. either buy an AEM ECU and make a harness up or don't waste your money. Let me put it to you this way... if you dropped the truck off with me and said... boost it. I would remove the factory harness and ecu and wire up an AEM setup. With 10 psi and my tuner tuning it, youd end up over 300 to the wheels. if you try and "shortcut" it, with stock ecu and a bunch of bandaids... youre going to end up with a runs like $#!&, flat spot detonating pig that you can't seem to figure out all the kinks. Thats cause the factory ecu was never meant to recognize boost and it has no maps for the new torque curve thats going to exist. Have any questions just ask man. I do this every day and so its like sleeping for me. I enjoy making sure people don't waste money on bull$#!& setups that will end up breaking all the time and causing them to keep redoing it. My specialty is doing it right the first time so it does what you want and is as reliable as stock was.

i have the same issue. :yes:

Check your toe, and when was the last time you got your fronts balanced? Thing is, death wobble is the axle moving side to side. It takes advantage of the sidewall flex and the axle literally jumps around if any play is given to it. So any worn part gives the axle room to dance.. it will. IF Toe is wrong creating not enough or too much friction between the tire and the road... then you hit a bump and unload that... when the tire comes back down the axle can't settle as the same friction it had before it unloaded can't be replicated again. Unbalanced wheels can cause it as the tire is bouncing slightly as it goes down the road... again non linear friction between tire and road. Bam! Axle starts dancing. Even on a perfect vehicle.... sometimes you can be in a corner and hit some bumpitys and get DW. Its just an inherent part of straight axle design. If you have any odd wear on your tires.. rotate em when you set your toe. That helped mine quit completely. What shocks you have? any opportunity the axle is given to dance... it will. lol

Thats a bad @$$ teaser shot. lol

NICE!!! yeah toyota FIPG is other worldly. It literally gets into the pores of your skin. Not like any other sealant. If you get it under your fingernails/in your cuticle..omg... it SUCKS. i wear latex gloves to apply FIPG. Its just great stuff. Not rolly polly like regular permatex run of the mill stuff.

this ^^. they are all the same basically no matter the color (RTV). The small difference is the additives. the red is useless and most likely to leak. Hence why we call it redneck sealant. You can be sure most any repair with red sealant oozing out everywhere was done by a toothless redneck who couldnt fix a sandwich. (though toyotas trans pan gasket maker is reddish and ive used it) blue, i don't see a point. The only 2 i use are the black and grey. Reason being they are what get me by when i don't have hondabond (grey) or toyota FIPG (black). Those are the 2 best silicone type gasket sealants i have ever come acrossed and i keep them on hand at all times. I mainly use them on valve cover gaskets in just the needed spots, and water pumps and T stat housings. For most other stuff i use Kuril T, loctite 518, gasgacinch, yamabond, and on vintage builds where many pics will be taken and every single aspect is important, permatex indian head. :)

with it that far apart, did you check the timing chain for slack? id have just replaced it. :) Nice work though man. Coming out very clean.

NGK is all i will run these days.

a great rock raisin. Someone grab it, toss tons and 42s on and saw the fenders out and perfecto.

wade, what track bar bracket is that? you made it or you bought it? pics of how you did it and what track bar and bracket that is? I'm deciding now what stuff i want to get. I want it right on the first try. Not.... re do it 3 times. lol.

yay!

hmmmm. And the fuel filter is new? may be collapsing inside, that would explain some of the odd stuff going on.

Issues with voltage to the pump?. May have to hook a multimeter up to the pump connection and drive with someone watching that. See if voltage begins to drop coinciding with the pressure drop. And verify the ground is perfect. Youre gettin close!

Looked back at original post. It sounds like a lean issue. I would put a fuel pressure gauge on it and run it to the windshield. Now drive and when it acts up, watch the gauge. That is what i would do if I were starting out at square one with your truck. If it helps, ive been a master ASE technician since about 1995, specializing in driveability and diagnosis. I still do this as my business daily. I don't put on a single part till i know which one is causing the problem. Again, not tooting my horn at all just letting you know I'm not some forum newb whos 16 and had one vehicle, trying to give you advice. ;) There are some very seasoned techs on here and most of them have been with this truck for YEARS. so i just agree with them as i have only had my manch ONE year. The amount of REAL knowledge on here is far higher than on most standard car forums.

Well hell, head gasket and new head won't fix this. Unless your leak down test shows severe leakdown on any one cyl, then MAYBE. But I'm going with all thats been said, its something simple and likely electrical. Patience and you will find it. But i wouldnt buy another part till you do. As you have already proven to yourself, none of the parts you put on were needed. keep all your old ones for trail spares.

Add this to your oil and never worry again. http://www.zddplus.com/ Its what i run in all my flat tappet builds. No issues at all. :)

Just to help you out, higher valve spring pressure doesnt hurt anything. Only valve spring pressure thats too low will cause excess wear. Because the valves float and dance at varying rpm and it damages the seats quick. Higher pressure allows the valve to track the cam better at all rpm and prevents float. Float being what destroys the seats cause the valve smacks the seat freely cause it wasnt tracking the cam properly. But you are right if you run super spring pressure you do want to pull the inners to break in the cam. from there the only thing that may suffer from too much spring pressure would be a broken rocker, or a mushroomed pushrod if you have weak or aluminum pushers coupled with monster springs.

hmmmmmm. Well like i said until i tear into them i don't know which experience I'm gonna have. Possible there are different housings too on early and late gens. Maybe some of them had the proper spot for the seal and some didnt. I have an early housing thats going in mine. So it sounds like its gonna be like what youve seen. no place for the inner seal. That and or the people who did the threads on it could be speaking out their @$$. It is the interwebs. lol. Id more believe your story since youve done 4 of them.