mountainman

According to the dana axle gurus (i have yet to verify but makes sense) thats because the seal doesnt go out there. When you switch to non cad axle, you put the seal in where it goes in a non cad axle. At the diff housing. The housing has the provision for it. So you pull the cover and carrier and put the proper factory seal in just like the driver side has. Then no more issues. Ive been reading mucho mucho on how to do this cause i don't want to run into any issues or leaks.

Good to hear some are staying a while. I live close so ill hang with those who stay for some camping fun. I camp more than anything so its my fav thing to do. :) If i remem right there is a campground up there with showers, or we can all pitch in for a motel room for one night mid week and go shower it up. Nothing worse than a showerless week. Once you start gettin sticky and stinky, wheelin isnt as fun anymore. lol.

^^^^ this. we run imports on full slicks, we make 800 hp to the wheels, and launch at 8k rpm. We run STOCK Cvs cause thats all thats available cheap. Sometimes they last 60 runs, sometimes they last 3 runs. They are far smaller than these are For me they should be great. A manch is light and i don't plan on standing on it. A ZJ weighs way more than my manch and has a v8 usually pushing it. My main concern is not destroying a balljoint on the trail. I'm only gonna be running the 30 till i finish building my front 44, or decide to put up with the giant RC car look and go Tons. Ill have a full extra set with me at all times, if i start spitting them out then ill get some 760 jointed regular axles before next trip. Ill figure it out for sure. :)

I found multiple answers. Seems many guys do it the wrong way and put diff seals in the cad area, which then ride on the raw surface of the axle and typically leak. The proper way is to put the correct seal in at the diff housing, the same way it is in the axle housing that your new one piece axle came from. Then no more leaks. :) This is dope info guys. I really would rather have CVs on my new setup so i don't eat balljoints on the trail. Gonna run 35s on D30. So this just made my year. LOL

SO... can i get these same parts and put them in a cad axle? same dimensions yeah? just remove the vacuum unit? Or am i crazy?

I also agree with sept cause i hate wheeling when its hot. I have AC and i live in vegas, no biggy. But i like all windows open and leaning out and checkin stuff out etc. Plus camping isnt camping without a campfire and bbqing. neither of which anyone wants when its 90 out at 10 at night....lol. But my rig WILL be ready for this THIS year. My goal is to have it at stage 1 by my birthday may 11. :) Ill still have a toothpick D30 but ill make it for a while till i can get my d44 done.

If its a "performance" part it should outperform and outlive factory stuff. If flints water pump is only 1 year old thats pathetic.

Awesome. I was just gonna say.. i can get you a tailgate if you need one. But.. you have one. :) Glad you got her back.

Let me complicate things here for ya.... :yes: http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/Jeep4.0Camshafts.htm http://www.hrracecar.com/tech_help/cams/AMC/_AMC.htm It all depends on what you want from it. for sure the exhaust ports need work. They are the lowest flowing part of the equation. You can go as simple as some mild port work, a diff cam and header and cold air intake. And the factory ECU will prob JUST accept that. (20-25 hp gain MAX) Or you can go all out and match up a bigger cam, increase the compression to match the cam, admit to yourself youll need to run 91 all the time, big head work with header and nice exhaust, a cold air,maybe a tad more injector, stand alone ECU and a new tune. The truck will certainly haul @$$ then... lol. jpnjim did say it right though. The stock cam may be juuuust right. Look at what hesco offers... smaller in many ways. prob makes more torque all around. I have already stared at this for HOURS. All i personally want to do is port the exhaust and pop in a cam on the stock motor and gain a tiny bit. I basically love the stock motor. With that i will say... I'm still not set on a cam yet. but my fav so far is.... erson's E720111

couple small rubber plugs from hardware store for now?

NICE. more pics of wilbur on the latest set of 35s. I know you have em. flexed out or just chillin.

Thats cheap for my area. Id snatch that up if i were you. Its got $850 in tires on it. pfff.

Whats the rod depth like? If the rod is pushing on the cup at all times you will have this issue. You need to have the factory gap between the end of the rod and the cup of the master cyl piston. I'm totally going from experience with tons of other cars ive worked on here. I havent ever looked at how a comanche master is. But 99% of cars out there, the rod is adjustable for just this reason. Also as others have said you could have a brand new bad master cyl. The cups shrink and then you have to kick it a few times to get it to operate properly again. I literally JUST came in from my shop, fixing a nissan clutch issue that was.... improper rod depth. He had it too short and like an inch between the rod end and master piston.. lol. Supposed to be like an 1/8 inch. I don't even know how he drove it. Hope this helps.

Cool please let me know. Thanks in advance. :)

Sad to see the longbed go. You gonna sell your rear bumper? MADE for a longbed, its what i planned to copy. lol. Gonna miss this sexy long bed owners inspiration.

Thanks for the story. I towed a vw bus full of swap meet parts from vegas to LA. It weighed around 3200 total. Used a towbar. cruised 80 like it wasnt back there. Also towed another bus acrossed town 2200ish lb load. Same deal.. no issue at all.

oh damn.

We need to do a west coast CC truck show. Be cool to see a hundred or so comanches in one place, including this rig. Have a manch parts swap meet and get some vendors who want to come and display. :) Thanks ben for keeping this beast alive and clean. Its awesome.

Any other shots of it from a side view with the cap off? I'm debating heavily if i want 33s or 35s. I LOVE this look, but i also love 35s..lol. 35 MTRs or 35 maxxis bighorns. mmmmm. I just have to drive it every day and i think it will boogy better and get decent mileage with 33s thats why i want them. hmmmmmmm

Well its already PLENTY of engine for the truck its in. Thats the great part. Think about it this way, how many toyota 22R fanbois wheel ALL day every weekend with 100 hp and 100 ft lbs of torque...... TONS of em. We have 190hp and 225 tq. double what those guys have. While thats not some wheelstanding #, its more than a lot of other trucks have. This is from allpar.com.. Peter wrote: In 1987 I wondered why they didn't drop the 4.0 I6 into the YJ, which was still using the 112-117 hp 258 (4.2 liter) six; or the Eagle, Concord and Grand Wagoneer, which came with the four-barrel 360 V8, making just 144 hp. The 4.0 made more power than the Ford 302 V8, Chevy 305, Chrysler 318, and AMC 360, as well as any of the six cylinder engines the Japanese were putting in their trucks, and it had comparable or better fuel economy . An AMC Concord with the 177 hp 4.0 I6 might have been a better police pursuit vehicle than the Dodge Diplomats (140-150HP), Chevy Caprices (160-170HP) and Ford Crown Victorias (160-165HP). Compared with other contemporary engines, the 4.0 was strong up until the end. See what I'm saying. Thats likely why nobody mods them. They just need some gears matched to the tire size you want and if youd like a 4:1 transfer case mod. coupled with a tad better air filter setup and a free flowing exhaust and you don't have to spend a dime on the engine. Work the rest of the rig and you have a killer trail machine.

^^^^^ lol.

Uhm... sure. lol. I do this every day for a living. Ive seen it about... 1000 times. You missed a part of the equation. I said "properly sized" With a tiny turbo, you need 25 psi to move the air that a big turbo does at 7 psi. So unless you have the compressor map for the turbo to be used and the engines VE map then your just shooting at the sky. Yes $#!&ty engines don't respond to boost like effiecient ones do so what you said does have some merit. I just finished turboing one of the $#!&tyest engines honda made. The B20 that came out of the CRV. It is a small cam low compression low flowing cylinder head engine. Stock it makes 143 hp and 133 ft lbs at the flywheel. We put 12 psi to it with a "street brawler" as its known, regular old t3/t4 50 trim. It put down 350 hp and 340 tq AT THE WHEELS. So use the math you used above and explain that one to me please. Just after that build... i did an s2000 with a vortech SC, one of my signature builds. 240 hp stock motor. We left the dyno at 445 to the tire. 12 psi. So yes... what i said stands.

We VW people are quite artsy when we have a bit of free time. I drew a singlecab on a package once and they called me on the receiving end. lol.

Yes, the rule of thumb is a properly sized turbo on any engine... 10 psi should roughly double the flywheel HP.

I can see both sides of the coin here as i build high HP imports. It would be a cool thing to have, but the problem is i don't know how strong or efficient this 2.5 is. To get good solid numbers from it, is going to be quite a learning curve. What cam to match the chambers it has, and what rods can you get that will withstand triple the stock stress load. I think for wheeling and crawling youd prob be better off with a 4.0. Since it IS the displacement your attempting to create by putting a turbo on the little 2.5. When you need the torque and that big crank to bump something or to crawl up a steep @$$ rock bed at 1500-2000 rpm, you won't have it. Youll have a little gutless 2.5 that only makes a decent number when its on boost. So you will have to mash on the thing all the time and that doesnt work well in crawling. Rock bouncing and mud pits sure. So it depends on what you expect from this thing. With tons and 39.5s I'm gonna guess granite grinder. So id pop in a JY 4.0, or if you live in a no smog county and have time, put an LS1 in it. But a turbo 2.5, too many IFs. Bunch of damn crap under the hood to come loose and go wrong, boost pipes and intercooler everywhere, building the engine so it can handle the HP, getting good management and injectors, then a clutch to hold it all, building wiring harness for custom management (none of this will smog anyways) and finally having a tuner who actually knows what they are doing, to tune this little sucker. Hope this helps.