NotMatt

Yep, Jeff at RR4wd is one of my good friends. I've known him since middle school. He owns a Comanche too, but of course it's been wheeled and thrashed and is in the process of being parted out right now for a new project. I don't think I've ever seen your rig around, I would've noticed a clean black MJ like yours with an exo for sure. Here's a better pic of mine, wave me down and say hi if ya see me around town.

Nice Rockridge Sticker. :D I was out at Naches in September too, for PNWJeep's annual M&G, though I took my wrangler not the Comanche.

Same here, fellow Wenatchee-ite!

Seriously? It's a Cherokee rear hitch receiver, not a front hitch receiver. This is a front hitch receiver for a Comanche or Cherokee: Hidden Hitch 65009 @ Quadratec

That appears to be a Cherokee hitch. The comanche hitches mount to the sides of the rear frame rails, not the bottom. That part number may or may not be for a Comanche-specific hitch that someone swapped the side plates on, OR a hitch that could have come with various different side-plates bolted to it to fit either the Comanche or Cherokee. Either way, those definitely aren't Comanche side plates.

Yes, the older case on the BA10/5 has a 21 spline input planetary bearing, and the case that's behind the AX-15 has a 23 spline input planetary bearing. You'll need to take both t-cases apart and swap the planetary bearing (assuming it is good) out of the junk t-case into the good one. If you're not comfortable tearing down the t-case to do the bearing swap, then it's probably going to be easier to find a used 23 spline unit rather than doing the swap. You'll need some good snap ring pliers, and a good clean bench to work on if you do decide to dig into it.

Wow, what the hell.... Now that I'm pondering this a bit... I have a buddy who has an XJ that his daughter drives, and he got a steal of a deal on it because it never would run right after a transmission (and I assume flexplate) replacement. He finally got it to run correctly by actually slotting the mount for the distributor and moving it slightly. I don't fully understand the CPS/distributor relationship, but I'm now wondering if it was due to a bunk flexplate like this....

What year and motor? If it's a 4.0, 90 or older your options are pretty limited since it uses a Delco-Remy internally regulated alternator. 91 and newer 4.0's use a Nippon-Denso that has more upgrade options. I know nothing about the alternators on the 2.5L motors.

No, the computer and harness for a 2.5 will not work (among other things that will not work). To seriously do this, you need a 4.0 donor. And you need to swap a lot of stuff over. It's not just a plug and play type deal. [EDIT]: And by donor rig, I mean an HO 4.0 Cherokee. Most everything will swap, you will have to lengthen the fuel pump wiring I think, and do some work on the tail light wiring and cab wiring if you swap the dash harness, which IMO is the best way to go.

You'll need the associated sensors on the TB, wiring for at least the engine bay and possibly the dash wiring harness and other misc. stuff unless you want to trace and splice the HO harness with the chassis harness, computer, power steering pump mounts differently, MAP sensor I think, thermostat housing unless you want to lengthen the CTS wiring, and a whole host of other stuff to "do it right"... if it were me, I would be on the hunt for a wrecked donor rig and plan on having the truck down and out for a while to get it done properly. They changed a lot of stuff going from RENIX to HO. If it were me, I would want to do this project right and not half-@$$ it, since having an HO MJ would be pretty sweet since they're kind of hard to find from the factory. I would fix the exhaust leak now, and start the hunt for a donor rig to do a clean, factory-like swap IMO. Also, the HO alternator (nippon-denso instead of the internally regulated delco-remy on RENIX) is regulated by the PCM, so you might have issues there too, but I'm not sure. EDIT: the fuel rail connectors are also different, in addition to both the feed and return being at the front of the HO and the RENIX has one on front and one on back, so some modification there will also be necessary.

Easy. Take it to a driveline shop and have them build you one. What about the shaft that was originally on the XJ paired up with the SYE? If you still have that, take it to a driveline shop and have them re-tube it at the correct length for the MJ. I would suggest taking what you have in first, and verifying what measurements they want (yoke to yoke, lift height, etc) before you bother to measure anything yourself. Some driveline guys measure things differently than others. If you can, drive the whole truck to their shop and let them do the measuring, that way they can be 100% sure before building anything. Since you have the SYE, you can drive the truck around in front wheel drive with no problem. I'm a big fan of having this type of work done locally rather than ordering something online because it's easy to double-check measurements and fitment and have things re-worked if it isn't just right rather than have to pay shipping to send something back to an online company. And yes, they will have the parts to build you a CV 1310 driveline.

Baby got some new shoes. The Big Horns in the last pic were on loan and I gave 'em back to my buddy, so I put the 33's back on and ran those for a while. Finally got around to getting some 16" wheels so I could put on this spare set of KM2's on. They're 315/75/16's so just about a 35" tire... and bam, it's like I got a brand new truck again. In addition to that, I've been slowly fixing other little issues. I replaced the alternator because it was squeeking and only charging at 13.7 volts with no accessories on. While I was there I went ahead and replaced my leaky power steering pump, and put a new YJ fan clutch on (seems to be the same one as the 4.0 ZJ one that lots of people put on). I scored a nice straight tailgate for a song, to replace my other tweaked one. Had to drive 150 miles to get it and scrape the 2.8 V6 logo off when I got it home, but it was worth it. Some day I'll tape it off and throw some red paint on it but it's good for now. Here's a pic..

Hard to say, but the 14 bolt is longer in the snout than any of the options of what you might have pulled out, so you should be fine. Only way to know is to bolt it up and have a look see. Post a pic after you get it bolted up like Zebvance said, or simply compare the area that's polished down by the seal on the yoke to where it fits now in the slip.

You do not. My brother's short bed truck was SOA in the rear and never had a single problem with driveline angles with AW4/231 combo. Also, you should not have any driveline bind... but if you DO, you can clearance the driveline yoke a slight amount with a die grinder and get away with it, at least temporarily so the truck is driveable. Another option, if you need more yoke length and a little more room for the u-joint to move around, is a slip yoke from a stock YJ driveline. It's about an inch longer in length, and the ears are larger to allow for more movement. Swap that onto your stock driveline after the SOA and you'll be golden.

one ton 91 YJ... 14b rear, HP60 front, Atlas II 5:1, AX-15 and a 4.0HO

It's a royal pain on a regular floor shift rig, and the column shift adds even more complication to the task. Lots of small parts to keep track of, clips and springs that pop out and fly across the room so you have no idea how they go back in, hidden screws. If you're going to attempt it, make sure you have lots of time and patience, a good torx bit set, "reverse torx" bit set (I don't know the technical term for these sockets) lock spring compressor, steering wheel puller, and a good assortment of phillips screwdrivers. When you get frustrated, stop, take a break, and try again. Don't just start ripping things apart, because it all has a specific order and way it goes in and you'll end up breaking stuff if you get frustrated. I've done a few "tilt fixes" on regular columns without the column shifter, which requires pretty much disassembling the whole thing. I got into the MJ tilt column with column shift almost all the way, and decided it wasn't worth it to try and figure out how to put it back together. I luckily had an XJ with a non-tilt column that was in good shape, and all the floor shifter brackets and cables, and went that route rather than pull my hair out trying to get the other column back together right. I always suggest to XJ people that they should just try and find another column in good shape rather than go through the trouble of tearing one apart... but in the case of the column shift models, it's not so easy to find another.

Yes, that will have the AX-15... it will also be the good bellhousing with the external clutch slave cylinder instead of the integrated throwout bearing/slave cylinder inside the bellhousing. Grab it. PS Garvin I know you probably didn't mean "it" in terms of all XJ's, but specificially this one the OP talked about... but just so anyone who might be looking at this topic in the future isn't confused... the DID put the Peugeot BA10 behind 4.0L rigs, in 87, 88 and possibly early 89. Late 89 they switched to the AX-15.

Here's a couple pics of my buddy's flat bed he built. Same truck, same bed, different paint and wheels. You could easily add something on the sides to keep your gear and stuff contained without doing too much tieing down.

It's like an AMC Christmas! lol. Good finds.

Can anyone who has access to run my VIN for more info (build sheet type info like I've seen from Chrysler or AMC) do that for me and post it here? I don't have the build sheet for this guy, and I've looked in the normal spots... under the seat in the springs, behind the door panel, etc.

[EDIT]: DOH! Nevermind.

Looking for an oem washer fluid bottle in good shape (not cracked and brittle) that fits in the factory spot in an 89 MJ. I want the Comanche bottle with single pump, not the XJ one with two pumps. Anyone have one? I'm willing to pay for shipping and your cost on the bottle. I found a few on ebay in the 20-40 dollar range, so let me know what your price is with shipping to 98801. Thanks!

I've always bled brakes with the engine off. Does not take much force to get all the air out, you don't need the booster's extra power for that. And the brake "feel" is moot... you know they're bled when it stops spitting air out the bleeder, not when the pedal feels "right". And yes, 86custom I would be suspect of the new booster you put on... or the line going to the manifold. You need to have that connected, don't disconnect it to bleed the brakes. Check over the lines real well and make sure you don't have any splits, cracks, etc... and if that comes out then the "new" booster you put on is probably bad internally.

I've always had it in my head that anywhere between 5 and 7 degrees is acceptable caster... AND, it's not unheard of for dana/spicer axles to be up to a degree different per side from the factory. When I built my radius-arm style long arms, I shot for about 6 degrees at ride height, which is where the number is most important cause it's where you're gonna be at when driving down the road. With a radius arm setup, the caster will change when flexed or compressed/drooped. With a factory 4-link like you have on a stock or regularly lifted rig, it will not change a whole lot (maybe a slight amount) over the travel of the suspension, due to different length control arms... however it shouldn't change much. They do build in the shim adjustment setup for the lower control arms from the factory, so you can get it dialed in perfect on an alignment rack I guess. In my world, 6.5 degrees is more than acceptable and I would not worry about adding shims to the lower CA's. In fact, I run a kingpin high pinion D60 under my wrangler with about 4 degrees of caster (designed that way to point the pinion up further at the t-case) and full hydro steering... and it still drives down the road straight and true with no ill effects. I would leave your caster where it is, and concentrate on making sure the toe-in/toe-out is dead on or maybe toe'd in just a slight bit (think like 1/8 to 1/4"), and you should have a pretty good handling ride when you're done.

That black 2wd sport truck with the steel wheels and silver decals is freaking sexy. I don't see a rear bumper on it, was that an option you could order factory or what? Roll pan? It looks killer like that IMO.