Biotex

I didn't notice all the things you mentioned, but did notice the PLYMOUTH letters accross the nose. I do like the letters all stretched across as on the red one. Reminds me of a superbird for some reason... If it were mine, I'd swap them onto the blue one, but sounds like you are trying to stay more on the original side which is usually a good idea on those cars. Either way, those are some awesome projects. Edit: Do you happen to have an "SS" badge for those?

Right now here in West Texas, they are paying guys $55/hr. right out of welding school. Just got to pass the welding test, and your hired.

I have found it to be a heck of a lot easier to fill a manual tranny from the top as you suggested. IIRC the top plug is a 22mm wrench. Reverse is a noisy gear, but never hurts to check the fluid.

Should I trim the "Weeds" LOL....

I like the 68 best of all because of the round side marker lights. Had one in high school.

Huh? I don't see no stinkin power lines... ;)

Nice! Looks like you got an extra door in the bed?

A fellow forum member came down to my neck of the woods for some well deserved vacation time. We couldn't resist this temptation, so a poser shot was in order. The sun was going down very quickly, so not a lot of time to position the trucks for the optimum shot, but I think it turned out well enough.

Check out lmctruck.com and go to 1982-2004 Chevrolet S10/GMC S15 and Sonoma 1983-2005 Chevrolet S10 Blazer/GMC S15 Jimmy catalog page 12 item number 19 29-1420 TAILGATE BUMPER-BED 2 REQ for $1.95 ea. or $3.90 for the pair. shipping is $7.75, so I didn't order them. I'll let someone else be the guinea pig.

Thanks for the tip on the heat shrink! I was thinking I was going to use a plastic dip product on them, but the heat shrink is much easier. As for the rubber wedges... I suppose you could cut some out of a chunk of solid rubber using a band saw, but perhaps Urethane plastic would last longer. Kind of like the Prothane products??? I haven't tried searching for new ones, but imagine they are hard to come by.

Ordered fender flares today. Napiers textured ones. Going to order some U-Pol Raptor bedliner and hopefully get back on to the build. Been mostly working on the shop addition lately. Added on 240 s.f. , so plenty of room now.

I ordered a pair of the Mustang hood bumpers from AmericanMuscle.com 17241 - Adjustable Rubber Hood Bumpers (79-88 All) $4.99 On mine I added a washer between the bed and the bumper so when I shut the tailgate, there is more pressure on the rubber head. The nut is hidden from view due to a bad camera angle, but there is a washer and a nut holding it in the OEM hole. I plan to use thread sealant and then cut off the excess threads with an angle grinder. $4.99 for the pair plus around $1.50 for shipping, and they were here in 3 days. I recommend these to help with those annoying rattles. On a side note, I first ordered some CJ/TJ grill to hood bumpers, but they are too thin at the head, so did not touch the tailgate tab when it was closed. Also the rubber nipple that sticks into the OEM hole is too small and would fall out easily. Not a good choice for my truck.

I agree! I'm always doing a couple at the same time. I'm building a rock buggy on a YJ frame right now.

IE8 and IE9

Seems odd to me that with a 0v condition, the throttle defaults to wide open. For safety reasons, if the pedal signal was lost, you would have a runaway. What am I missing?

Read this thread starting from the top. Post #3 and #8 have links to other threads that explain in detail how to remove the system.

I think he's referring to the Pugeot tranny.

http://www.alpinefurniturestore.com/JeepDocumentation/jeeps.html

Still, I wouldn't rule out stale gas. How much was in the tank before you put in the 5 gallons? See where i'm going? Keep in mind that an empty tank has air, and air contains moisture. An empty tank sitting will repeatedly condense several drops of water with each temperature change. Think dew in the mornings. Over time, this water will settle to the bottom of the tank, which as you know, is where the pickup is. So, the bottom line is that there could easily be some old watery gas in the tank even with 5 gallons of fresh.

Plugged catalytic converter? Stale Gas?

Here is my build thread on a CJ10A. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/new-cj10-project-1155836/

Just want to point out a couple of things to anyone thinking of a K&N style filter. To provide air filtration you have to use a media of whatever micron size you want to filter down to. The smaller you go, the more restrictive the air flow becomes. A less restrictive filter such as a K&N comes with a price that you can't get away from. You see, you can't have it both ways. Adding oil to the filter gets around this , but again you have a trade off. The oil does a good job at keeping the finer particulate from getting through, but then it starts getting restrictive and you are not seeing the advantages of the freer flowing filter anymore. So you have to wash them quite often in dusty conditions. Last point is that a free flowing filter such as a K&N, does its most good at higher rpms. They were designed for racing motorcycles the run in the several thousand rpm range. Longevity of the engine was not a factor, because those engine were rebuilt after a couple of races anyways. Those dirt tracks were wet down, so not a lot of dust. I personally don't see any advantage using a K&N on a Comanche engine. Cold air intake yes, and so to get it, you pretty much are going to have to use an aftermarket filter. Another catch 22...

my main goal was to find the Leak.. It should be empty by the morning.. then replace the drier and then add oil and Freon Be advised that you can add too much oil and damage the compressor. Oil and Freon mix together somewhat, that is why when there is a leak, it gets dirty around the area. This is also how the internal parts get oiled to a point. There is also oil in the compressor and receiver that doesn't completely empty out from a leak, so if you keep adding oil every time you add Freon, you can easily have too much. This isn't usually as much a problem with the rotary style compressors as it is with the York style piston types, because they had a large sump just for oil similar to your air compressors in your house.

I agree. My new drier has a sight glass like you stated. Do you think it would be possible to "top off" my system using one of the DIY cans they sell at the auto parts store? If so how could i do this? Look at your sight glass with the A/C on, fan on high, a warm day (70° + or so will do). If there are bubbles, then you can safely add more Freon. Get a can, and you will need the hose for the low (suction side). The Freon in the can is at a higher pressure than the Freon in the suction line (with the A/C running), so it will pull from the can. With the can right side up, gas will enter the system, with the can upside down, liquid Freon will enter. Upside down will empty the can quite fast, but you need to be careful and alternate between the two because you don't want to allow liquid to enter the compressor. Remember how liquid is non compressible? It can lock up a compressor. Usually not an issue with the rotary style compressors on comanches, but don't push your luck, just go slow... You should get rid of 95% of all bubbles, and be good to go. If you have a temperature gun, you can easily tell when the evaporator gets flooded. The suction line just before the compressor will drop in temperature drastically when the liquid starts reaching that point. You can actually feel the difference with your hand, it is something like a 10° or 20° drop. Hope this helps.

I don't believe the capacity difference when switching to R134a. There might be a small weight difference between the two freons, but not 25%. The system is fully charged when the evaporator is flooded, so if a sight glass is present in the system, once the bubbles clear up, it is an indication that the evap. is flooded, and so adding more Freon does not add to the cooling.