Biotex

Here is a picture of a home made spacer. Some 1/4" wide flat strap and some square tubing. Not much to it. This one is 1/2" wide for a hydro-boost application, but 1/4" wide for the Comanche would be ideal.

The 1/2" lift shackles will raise the pinion up. Could be your vibration.

Correct! I'm only test driving it to pinpoint the noise, Plan was to swap in the correct ratio gears, but another project got in the way. I sure hope I don't have to replace those intermediate shaft bearings. If I install a one piece shaft can I do away with them? The bearing is easy. It's what causes it to go bad that's the problem...bent housing!! Ok, thanks. I'll check it out. Nothing noticeable by my eyes.

What is your infatuation with "tanks" ? :D J.K. In your first description you mentioned a rear tire carrier bumper, but I'm not seeing it in the pics. :hmm: With that 5 speed, it will make a nice tow rig for the manche. lots of spare parts...

Probably just the camera angle, but it looks like the spacer nuts are sticking out past the wheel mounting surface. Are they just on hand tight? BTW, I really like the color contrast. So many guys just paint everything black. Nice job!

Correct! I'm only test driving it to pinpoint the noise, Plan was to swap in the correct ratio gears, but another project got in the way. I sure hope I don't have to replace those intermediate shaft bearings. If I install a one piece shaft can I do away with them?

If you do go with shims, use only steel ones and IMO it is best to tack weld them in a couple of places. They have been know to get loose, crack and fall out. It is well documented.

Thanks for those pics. I forgot those existed. So that confirms it can't be my NP231 chain because it doesn't spin always. Looks like a front axle teardown is in order If I can't find the noise. Reading your post made me think of something. My shift collar is locked in the open position at the moment, because I'm about to swap in some taller gears to match the rears from my new 8.8 swap. Wonder if the intermediate shaft is either rubbing on the collar or the shaft spinning backwards is causing it. Probably not the shaft spinning backwards, because the noise is there with the collar locked closed also. Before I did the rear end swap, the noise was there as well. With the collar open or closed.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/12163-acronyms/ shorthand for everything wow thanks, Redwolf No problem. You are welcome. First thing you need to do when you have a no start engine, is figure out if it is Air, Fuel, or Fire the engine is lacking. We can eliminate timing right off the bat because the engine does run (sometimes). So, start with the obvious stuff first. If you are starved for fuel, check fuel filter and fuel pump. If it is lack of fire, check coil and then ignition components. If you don't have points, then you have an electronic ignition which means there is a module somewhere. Module like coils, get hot and open electrically. Check for spark first: The easiest way to check for spark is with an induction timing light. You have 3 connections to make. pos. and neg. at the battery, then you clip onto any spark plug wire. Have someone crank the engine while pressing the trigger on the light, and see if it flashes. If it does, then fuel is the problem. Do this, and report back if you still need help.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/12163-acronyms/

I had thought about the dust shield, but forgot to check them. I will look and see, but I think the noise is much different that that. Kind of a low growl that goes wha wha wha wha wha with increasing frequence the faster I go. If it is a stretched chain, wouldn't i be able to hear it with all 4 wheels off the ground and in gear running? i did that, and crawled all around trying to hear the noise, but couldn't. I will jack it up again and re-listen.

Just wanted to mention that I can hear the whine of the gears as normal. It is a seperate noise. The noise I'm hearing is much lower pitched and a cyclical pattern that matches wheel speed. I don't believe it is a rubbing speedo cable or my gauge would jump. It is surprisingly steady.

Scenario: Stock NP231 in 2wd Open Dana 30 with axle disconnect collar locked in the open (disconnected position). all 4 wheels on the ground. The front shaft should spin freely correct? If I slide the collar over to connect the passenger side axle, it should not spin freely correct? What does the two piece passenger side axles ride on at the disconnect? bearings or bushings? Please read the following carefully, as I have included a lot of facts related to the noise, and might save you from asking a question already answered. I could really use some help on this one, so please offer your suggestions. I'm trying to diagnose a low pitch whine that is cyclical with wheel rpms, and am trying to eliminate components. So far it is definately not the rear drive shaft or rear axle. It is not tires. I don't think it is front drive shaft either, because I believe I have it not spinning due to the above scenario. It spins freely when I crawl under the truck and spin it by hand. I feel absolutely no slop in the output bearings from the transfer case when I grab the shafts and violently shake them. After driving the truck at highway speeds, I feel no abnormal heat coming from the front joints in the knuckles. Brake rotors appear in good shape, but will point out the noise sounds like gears or bearings, not warped rotor noise. All fluids are new and within specs. Noise is the same no matter what gear I'm in, whether clutch is in or out, power on or coasting. By the way, I have put the truck up on four stands in 4wd and 2wd, and cannot pinpoint any abnormal noises. This fact points me to front wheel bearings, so I'm thinking that is my next step. :wall:

I lifted mine 4.5", and did not use the control arm drop kit. My lifted MJ drives perfectly at all speeds. Not sure what drivability issues they are referring to when they state: "This kit is used to lower the upper and lower control arm mounting points when the XJ Cherokee is lifted at least 4.5". Lowering the control arm mounting points reduces the arms angles and substantially improves ride quality and handling." The lowering kit also greatly reduces ground clearance behind the front tires where you need it when coming off a rock. I'm not sure I can justify the expense for a 4.5" lift.

I just filled mine and it held a full 2.75 quarts. Mine was the Explorer version Non LSD. I had drained it completely. Not sure why the discrepancy.

Now that my 95/96 XJ Brake Booster & M.C. have arrived, I can start sorting out the lines. Here is a picture with them labeled:

Subscribed. I'll be doing mine this weekend I hope.

I was on Jeepforum for many years, and also hated that thread. Then I decided to start following it, and actually learned a whole lot of cool ideas on home made stuff from some very creative guys. I soon became addicted to it. You will occasionally get the typical "I changed the oil", or I started it" thread, but since the MJ community is so much smaller, I think those kind of posts will be minimized with just a few :thwak: 'S. No need to make it a sticky, because it will automatically stay at or near the top. :crossfingers:

Show truck as in "show me your wallet" :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: Welcome aboard. Nice XJ.

I feel your pain brother! Hang in there cause it id definately going to be worth the effort in the end. Hopefully you can salvage those beautiful door panels.

Point taken!

I truly feel this thread has a lot of good tech in it, but gets missed by a lot of readers because it is so buried as a sub thread. I'd like to see it moved to the tech page.

X2 on the plastic insert. Insist on them using one, because they get lazy about it.

Thanks for the reply Bob. After thinking it through a bit more, I agree that it would be a cleaner install to bedline first. I don't plan to bedline the bar, just the bed.

Jay dipped into his stash, and sold me a pristine rollbar for maura. I'm so :banana: and can't wait to get it mounted up. Question: is it better to bedline between the mounting surface, or mount the bar and tape it off? I'll be spraying U-Pol.