Lee21490

I'm using 80/100w bulbs with a putco harness & hella h4 housings They work just fine~ I've had mine on for nearly a year now, I typically turn on my lights whenever I'm driving.

Nope. I put 5.5 on mine & never changed the drive shafts.

Finally got the fender flares in the mail, Threw them on this morning. Going to be ordering stuff for my front axle here soon, Need to get it beefed up before i break it :yes:

In internet lingo, It stands for "Cool Story Bro" :yes:

There's actually quite a lot of us here in Wa. We should organize a trip to walker or something some day.

Always nice to see another CC user in town here.

v2's look pretty decent, They're a bit cheaper (even have a discount coupon for CC members) I'm not sure if i cut too much away from my fenders for the v2's though. I ended up just ordering a set of bushwhackers the other day.

i changed them yesterday mornin, easier than what i thought, but my broken CV axle sound is still around but only when i turn now, i'm thinkin it might be time for ball joints or sway bar links, Redwolf I changed a balljoint with a hammer once... Only once... Holy hell was it a bad idea :doh:

Well havent had time to work on the 'manche lately, But i did pick up something today. Springfield xdm .45 acp 4.5" With night sights :D

It's actually pretty simple, Just make sure you are tapping the new cap on straight, and the bearings don't pop out.

Could just swap it out anyways. So meh.

Even more reason to get a new track bar.

I've always just set them off the side of a bench, put a socket/etc on the cap & hit it with a hammer untill it falls out. I don't own a press. You can change a u-joint in just a few minutes with just a hammer.

We just threw a few stick welds on each tube end, And called it good. Actually welded to it quite easily. You don't have to remove the internals to weld it, Just make sure you don't let it get TOO hot.

Thanks man. Most of the lights in my instrument panel decided to burn out this last week, Finally got around to replacing it just now. Since the PO swapped the 95 steering column in with the engine/dash, There was Absolutely no clearance to take the dash apart, to get to the cluster. Ended up having to drop the entire steering column just to pull the plastic trim off the dash, to get to the cluster :/ Essentially spent over an hour doing a ten minute job... Ohwell, I can finally see how fast i'm going at night now, So I'm happy. Got my bumpstops today, Hope to get them in tomorrow if i'm lucky.

Might have the same issue i did awhile back. A little ways up on both sides, Is a bolt with a rubber gasket/oring around it, Just pull back the carpet & padding towards where the heater core is. The rubber on mine was FUBAR and was leaking heavily every time it rained, Coat a little sealant around it & you're good to go.

Check your tail light wires, follow them from the back. Sounds like its shorting somewhere. Mine did this not long ago, Where the PO had spliced in trailer light wires, And was getting water in it.

Well i finally had enough time & Was bored enough to start a build thread! My first car when i was 16, was a '86 comanche X 2.8l, Had a 3" extremely budget lift on it. After a few years of driving that, around 2012 I got hooked up by a friend of a friend, And got my hands on a '86 longbed that the PO had already swapped a '95 4.0 into. For $500. Although it did have a good amount of problems with it. First of all, the guy drove it into his driveway to show me it & It wouldnt start again. Thankfully he had a hydraulic bed we could throw it on & he dropped it off at my house. Ended up just needing an electrical tune-up. Thankfully the PO had removed all the interior when he had it, As he was working on a farm & there was mud/manure all over the inside. Pretty much ended up taking a hose to the floor/soap then sealed it with paint. Put some noise dampening material down & threw the almost new carpet back in. Then over the next year or so, Due to lack of funds and time, I hadn't really done much to it.. Other then basic maint that it desperately needed as it had sat for a few years. All brakes were shot, Rears didnt even work at all. Had to bypass the Valve in the back to get them working again. All the ball joints were just completely gone, One of them was basically able to be pulled out of its housing by hand. All tie-rods were worn out too. Brake lights were never hooked up when he did the wiring swap, Which was a b*@$£ to figure out with the 95 steering column. So anyways, After finally getting it back into proper working condition again, I ended up with a little spare cash again & Started Stockpiling the parts needed to lift the truck (Killed two birds with one stone, The suspension in it was pretty much completely broken) Ended up going for a 5.5" lift , Which Alexia had made a parts list for, Plus I snagged a set of Control arms off a WJ. Thankfully my brother in-law helped me with it, Since I wasn't comfortable enough to do it by myself without @#$%ing it up. Ended up taking us two days to do the complete lift. Unfortunately, I don't have many pics left of back then since my phone containing them all broke awhile ago. Here's a Pic of the rear, Before the lift. And After: Full pic of truck after lift: After the lift, I decided the tires were way too small now, And bought my first set of offroad tires! 33x12.5" Goodyear Wrangler Mt/r With Kevlar. After this point, It was the beginning of the end of my bank account. Ordered and installed a pair of Hella h4 housings with a putco wire harness & 80/100w bulbs. Bought a set of bumpers & rock sliders from nates4x4: After all that, My d35 decided to be... well... a d35 and start to fail. So a quick trip to a guys house from C'List later: Ford 8.8 out of a 98 explorer, With Disc brakes and 4.10 gears with a posi. Out with the old. In with the new: Unfortunately, After doing all that work & Spending all that money for the swap kit / etc. I found out the pinion bearing & gears were absolutely @#$%ED. Thanks random guy on c'list! Ohwell, I had always planned on putting a real locker in the rear, Just not that soon haha. So i ordered Yukon 4.10 R&P & Timken master install kit, And a Yukon Grizzly locker. Dropped it off at the shop, And the axle was back to new. Some forklift flex pics: Alright, That was long. You guys always ask for pics, hope thats enough of them haha. Future plans: Ordering Cut-Out Bushwhacker fender flares next week. Bump stops coming in the mail next monday Not exactly sure what I'm going to do with the front axle, Probably 30 spline shafts & another grizzly locker. Really need to fix the interior, Its got pretty beat up lately. Skid plates!

So somewhere at the mountain saturday, The glass on my passanger mirror fell out & i lost it. Do they make replacement glass? Or am i stuck searching junkyards?

They shouldn't. MT springs are supposed to ride at the same height as standard springs, unloaded. They just have more carrying capacity. If aftermarket "metric ton" springs result in lift -- they weren't made correctly. Interesting. I remember reading in a few places around here they will net you an inch or so of lift, Although they might have meant compared to stock worn out leafs.

v8 grand cherokee tie-rod's are great, Bolt right in and are WAY stronger. The lower control arms are good too.

Another +1 for aussie, Its what i was going to use in the front of mine.

Have you thought about getting metric ton springs? Iirc they give 1-2" lift over reg springs & increase your load rating.

Trade you. I just completely broke my lense off today at the mountain, Stuffed it full of epoxy haha

Sometimes you can get a hell of a nice vehicle for $500, its rare.. But does happen.