ftpiercecracker1

Have you ever removed the CAD? You may be mistaking the collar not fully engaging and slipping off, for a faulty T-case. Its easy enough to get to and fix, so that would be my very first action.

:thumbsup:

There is a rubber seal where the hood meets the body when you close the hood. If this seal is bad i would imagine it would allow water to run down the face of the engine side firewall. If any of the holes are uncovered, BAM. Theres your water source. From what it sounds, you must not have your black box thingy/climate control system removed. Other wise you would have to be blind not to see where the leaks are coming from.

You sir are a wizard. :bowdown: Your MJ was super nice after the first restoration, now your just showing off. :thumbsup:

http://yuma.craigslist.org/cto/3793701440.html Unusal front clip, personally think this front end is hideous looking. :ack:

Only two on CL in Boise, http://boise.craigslist.org/cto/3780514993.html http://boise.craigslist.org/ctd/3754251271.html Spokane, Idaho http://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/3797648166.html http://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/3805520589.html http://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/3763959255.html http://spokane.craigslist.org/bar/3780745026.html http://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/3719255715.html http://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/3807779420.html No pics Twin Falls, Idaho http://twinfalls.craigslist.org/cto/3783318075.html FWIW, i bought mine in the great state of Florida for a $1000, it had some rust, more than what i would have liked. Eliminator, low mile 4.0, ax-15, 4x4, all factory skids, bed liner. On a scale of 1-10. 10 being show room condition, 1 being not even worthy of the scrap yard, i would have given my MJ a solid 6. :thumbsup:

Good stuff, but I don't understand why he would say they are not interchangeable when in fact they all are, at least to a point.

2.5s are just underpowered, Underpowered = No fun, so you have to gear it Waaaaaaaay down. Reliable as all get out though.

Are these the years that are compatable?

If by "use the new stuff" you mean using the electronics from the 2000, yes it would be better, BUT and this is a big but. You have to swap EVERYTHING including engine harnesses, interior harnesses, dash, gauge cluster, and weilding new plates onto the fire wall to acomodate the newer steering column. In other words, its a huge ordeal to do what you are asking. Is it doable? Yes. Diffcult? Extremely. Rebuilding your motor would probably cost your three times the amount it would simply to drop in the one thats in the 2000. If you do decide to rebuild your original motor i would recommend looking into building a stroker, it would add only a couple hundred bucks to the rebuild, but give you a huge performance boost.

If you reuse all your original Renix equipment, it will be fairly simple. If you REALLY know what you are doing, it could probably be done in a day. But i would give yourself a long weekend just in case. There are a few issues that have to be overcome, like the intake gasket, knock sensor port, temp sender unit, and distributor hole. (i think 2000 starts the coil packs :hmm:) Year shouldnt matter, even the last 4.0 ever made (04) can be transplanted into an MJ. I have put a 93 Grand Cherokee 4.0 in my 89 and it was a straight drop, they only issue i ran into was with the pilot bearing. I can explain if interested. . .

Couldn't agree more. :agree:

Set of 4 37" tires ship to my address, would run right at $1200, so. . . . :dunno: https://treadwright.com/p-81-37x12-50r16-5-guard-dog-m-t.aspx I will gracefully bow out from this conversation now, as i have already made my case. My advice to the OP would be to do as much of the work yourself. :thumbsup: And shop around as much as you can.

:chillin:

Whoa, slow down there haus, :no: . don't throw out the whole bushel beacuse of one bad apple. Craigslist maybe a little sketchy at times, but it has some real worth.

Just an FYI. Just the drivetrain swap I done was around 2 grand. Toss in 1200 for tires, lift, and all the other crap you will be looking at least 4 grand IMO..... Once again, ask me how I know. Sweet jesus on iceskates! :eek: 2k just for the drivetrain??? Did you do any of the work yourself? What all did you swap out? Also, there are NICE tires that can be had for less than 800 a set, (Treadwright.com) and if you do the 5.5 lift thats in the DIY section for 600 bones. . . granted this is from my JY, but a complete engine is $200, transmission is $75, t-case is $70, axle is $40, driveshaft is $13. add that all up 800 600 200 75 70 40 13 $1798, which is a helluva lot less than 4k To be fair i would say a more accurate and "average" cost would be more like $2000, but we have no idea what the OP is staring out with. He may already have the 4.0, the 4x4, maybe even a Dana. If that be the case, he could have a killer rig just by getting some good ole craigslist tires and the DIY $600 lift. Total invested might even be less than a grand. :thumbsup:

First and most important question, how much money do you have to spend? serious question.

Thanks for the advice guys. :)

Kinda off/on topic but, what is the proper edicate when dealing with mulitply offers from craigslist callers? I ran into this a few weeks ago when selling one of my vehicles, it worked out in the end, but i feel as though i definately could have handled it better.

Test for 12v at your brake light switch, if you got it, use a jumper to connect the two wires in the brake light switch. Check and see if you have lights then, if not you've got problems between the switch and the light socket.

The top and middle bulbs in your tail lights should have two filaments each, just FYI if you didnt already know. Your reverse lights should only have one filament.

I agree. My new drier has a sight glass like you stated. Do you think it would be possible to "top off" my system using one of the DIY cans they sell at the auto parts store? If so how could i do this?

I must have been writing my reply the same time as you.. I knew there was a pressure difference but not a capacticy difference don't quote me on the capacity difference, it is just what i was told by my parts guys. I do trust him and he is knowledgeable, its just that he has been off in the past. Remember that to little freon/pressure will only result in poor cooling, but to much pressure and you really F your system up. I would definately start with 2 cans and if the pressure still seems off or your cooling just isnt quite there i would add more, how much depends on current ampient temperature. The best conditions to do this would be around 72 F*, and clear skies. Barometric pressure and all that. With everything said, i will probably be adding a little to mine. I just don't think its quite there yet. P.S. With the fan on high its only cold for about 15-20min then it slowly becomes just ambient temp. It will cool back down if i put the fan on low and leave it for a little bit. I have stuck a digital thermometer in the vent duct, fan on lowest speed, a/c on max and the lowest it will go is 50*F :dunno: EDIT: If your system is TOTALLY emptied, don't forget to add oil, between 6 and 7 ounces. It is CRITICAL your a/c system has not only the right amount of oil, but also the appropriate type of oil.

I just had my a/c system recharged the other day. With it completely and utterly empty, I used 2 12oz cans, for a total of 24oz. Pressures seem to be a tad low on the low side, but my compressor still kicks on and my a/c is decently cold. I have been told that when switching over to R134a you can only use 75% of the original R12 capacity. For our trucks it was 32oz of R12 in 1989, 75% of 32 is 24. I would start by doing a proper evacuation then recharge it with the right compressor oil and 24oz of R134a. EDIT: with your a/c set on max, check for 12v at the pressure switch.

don't forget the pictures! :D