jeepdoggydogB

My fuel light routinely came on when I would hit 190 miles and take 13 gallons of gas meaning I had 5 gallons left. My old 98 TJ was about as accurate, now that I have a pre 91 fuel sending unit my lite comes on with 19 gallons left in the tank :mad:

Lucky guy! I was there back in 06 and noticed the same thing, the locals appear to love Jeeps! Back in 06 there was a maroon Pioneer in decent shape on the side of the highway by Buzz's Restaurant. It sat for a few days then someone torched it! :mad:

You might find this tool helpful http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/D ... mber=38335 I wouldn't buy it if you intend to replace a lot of balljoints but for $32 it should work at least one time.

I bought the Rancho lift in 2005 from a local 4WD shop when they were clearing their old inventory. According to the owner Rancho discontinued the lift in the 2000-2001 years. The Springs, LCA, were red I suppose they could have been something else. And wolfpackjeeper fixed the feet and inches typo :oops:

:agree: My Rancho 3'' AAL settled so that the rear was shorter than the front after 3 years, the ride was generally stiff. I splurged for the Hellcreek 3'' and the ride is noticeably smoother despite the new packs being MT.

Nice truck! :cheers:

Replaced my burnt out IPF magic J bulbs with the new Fatboy II bulbs. The old ones lasted almost two years I don't know if that is good or bad by H4 standards, but I was disappointed. I can't wait for dusk to see the results.

Nice! :drool: If only my fuel sender, tie rods, and ball joints didn't already empty my pockets!

SW, That pic looks like mine I would say it is lined up, but if you get nothing or the bouncing speedo do what ejndssn said. Believe me, you aren't the only one that had a hard time with this, 3 adjustments and test drives spanning a week I finally got it working. :ack: Let us know how the 4.11's are working out for you :cheers:

Mine sits 90 degrees counter-clockwise from the position in your third picture.

:agree: A good lift kit that will lift you 3-4" will cost you $600 - $900 depending on exactly how you do it. If you cut corners you can do it for probably $500 - $600. A 3-4" kit is going to require (at minimum) coil springs, lower control arms, track bar, sway bar links, shocks and a rear add-a-leaf. I did the RE 3.5" Super Ride with 3" Hell Creek leaf springs in the rear. I added upper control arms and an adjustable track bar to mine so if one paid retail price (which I did not) they would be in to it for about $1000. When you decide to go bigger...all of this stuff gets repalced again... :agree: With Brent. I just installed this lift (at Brents recommendation) with the 3 inch hellcreek metric ton springs. The rear sits a little higher than the RE 3.5 front springs but it has the same lean that a stock MJ has. If you want the front and rear to be closer to even get the non metric ton springs. I replaced my old Rancho 3 inch lift including the rear AAL and the ride is much better than the old lift. I could feel every pebble with the old lift, I also took Don's (hornbrod's recommendation) and used the OME shocks for a perfect ride. :yes:

I got full tach and ZERO Speedo (no bouncing). I'll check the Cable up top first and if it's in good, then I'll pop the housing off again... I can read the #'s on the housing, I just didn't don't see anything to align them too... SW,Follow align the number to the red line Motion Offroad provided and it should work. JD My Numbers are on the Top Flat Part of the Housing and not the Side like that pic, but will see what I see... SW, There should be numbers representing teeth ranges in 3 areas E.G 17-24, 25-36, 37-42. This is why you rotate the housing to the red arrow Motion Offroad supplied to match your tooth count.

I got full tach and ZERO Speedo (no bouncing). I'll check the Cable up top first and if it's in good, then I'll pop the housing off again... I can read the #'s on the housing, I just didn't don't see anything to align them too... SW,Follow align the number to the red line Motion Offroad provided and it should work. JD

???? As I recall there are only notches on my tcase at 3,6,9, and 12 O'clock and the adapter plate for the speedo housing that can be aligned to the notches has the tooth count in four sectors corresponding to the notches. I didn't notice any teeth numbers on my housing because it was rusted, I got another one from the JY and it had the numbers. Hmmm.... So if I installed it correctly, the Tach us also affected, correct... On the way to work today, I have Tach, but no Speedo...maybe it popped out of the back of the Speedo @ the Dash (clip isn't the most secure) when I was yanking on the speedo cable. My tach worked without the speedo. If you do not allign the tab over the correct tooth count like I did I got "bouncing speedo". I would then move the tab another 45 degrees to the next tab and try driving again. I did this 2 times until I got the speedo working. I eventually bought a new housing with the numbers on it.

He's on the third alternator, and they ALL bench test as good. And it isn't specific to the plow. Running the plow causes the problem to kick in sooner, but it also happens if he just drives around in daylight with no lights and no accessories running. He said it operates normally for about 15 ot 20 minutes, then just ... stops charging. Got any idea where the regulator is for that year and model? My brother is a Nissan parts guy I will email him tonight and ask. :typing:Eagle,According to my brother the voltage regulator is integrated with the alternator, I wonder if a higher amp alternator might be needed to support the accessories? I forwarded this to my brother to ask some techs for opinions, so far I get the usual check the fan belt, check the pulleys ETC. I will wait for some more insight.

???? As I recall there are only notches on my tcase at 3,6,9, and 12 O'clock and the adapter plate for the speedo housing that can be aligned to the notches has the tooth count in four sectors corresponding to the notches. I didn't notice any teeth numbers on my housing because it was rusted, I got another one from the JY and it had the numbers.

He's on the third alternator, and they ALL bench test as good. And it isn't specific to the plow. Running the plow causes the problem to kick in sooner, but it also happens if he just drives around in daylight with no lights and no accessories running. He said it operates normally for about 15 ot 20 minutes, then just ... stops charging. Got any idea where the regulator is for that year and model? My brother is a Nissan parts guy I will email him tonight and ask. :typing:

I am no Nissan Guru by any stretch of the imagination but my family has owned Nissan dealerhsips since the seventies, and I have never heard of electrical gremlins specifically for the hardbody D21 line. In 1997 if I recall the truck only came with the 2.4L 4. Has your brother actually had the alternator(s) tested to verify they are defective? If they are becoming defective could it be the plow? Maybe he could disconnect the plow from the electrical system and see if the charge holds? It could be that a higher AMP alternator might be needed to run the plow accessory. :dunno:

:agree: I stay away from the hard stuff 'casue -- Liquor Makes Me Brave -- :eek: :yes: :shake: Holy God I remember I put a $3000 bid on a 1987 Comanche with less than 9,000 miles on Ebay. Luckily somone else bid over $5,500 and beat me. Booze and Ebay do not mix well for me!

No, I was not correcting you; you're exactly right. I haven't bench tested how much the difference in the sender pot's resistance would affect the accuracy of the gauge, just theory guessing if polarity was reversed at the sender connection above the tank. You have the ideal platform to do a real world test; maybe the accuracy of the fuel gauge might not as bad as I think? :cheers: BTW, where you at in HI? Hono? I like Eagle's interpretation (at least that is what I told my Wife E=energy, F=fail). When I get to my balljoint issue I will switch those wires and let folks know the accuracy of the guage. I suspect you are correct and the real HO sending unit is the best solution. :cheers:

Don,I haven't had a chance to get back in there, but I think what you posted is correct. If I reverse the wires it will be moving in the right direction but it will be very inaccurate. Maybe when I get to my balljoints I will take a peak, but from reading all the horror stories they might take up the whole weekend.

The clusters from 1990 and below are not compatible with the 1991 and above for several reasons. One is because of the different polarity on the fuel sending unit that you have discovered, and several of the gauges are different too, the fuel gauge is one of them. You can either go to the fuel tank and swap the two sending unit wires (but the gauge will still read wrong as the sender pots are different values), or better yet, get the correct cluster from a 91-96 MJ/XJ so everything will read correctly and you'll have a working electronic speedo too. :D Don If I read his post right he has a 92 and used an 87 sending unit? If that is the case I am in the same boat. JW wreckers quoted me a 1991 sending unit, but when I installed it I noticed that the fuel guage worked backwards. When I can locate a 1991 assembly, I intend to send it to this company to be rebuilt. http://www.tristarrradiator.com/ If you still have the 1992 assembly you might want to send it to the above company? I have terrible luck with the fuel pump assembly from JY. They can rebuild it for some coin get it back to you and you can put it back in when you can afford some down time.

That would be a man named Leon, there is also another place in Texas http://www.wagoneerworld.com/ I looked at both sites never saw a Wagoneer a above $32,000, in the old days when I had money I would have bought one from either.

Its odd, I am a member but I can't access those pictures anylonger. An yes JP is a rag but I do have a little while longer on the subscription. Pewe's (former JP editor) 4 wheel drive is a much better magazine.

Just got my April Jp magazine and on page 62 an article by Peter Trasborg claims that International buys Jeep. I hate April fools from JP :fs1: http://www.jk-forum.com/showthread.php? ... 955&page=3