Jeep Driver

I have the Hella on the XJ. Check ebay, I got my pair for about $40.....$52 shipped IIRC Got an older set of AutoPal on the MJ. The Hella have a definite cutoff above the horizon, otherwise, the two are comparable. The Hella is much better quality though. Edit: Regardless of what you choose the improvement over sealed beams will be 110%....promise you that.

I like reading your posts because you often come up with unusual solutions by thinking "outside the box". Whereas most folks just change parts, you look at the bigger picture and try to find a fix for the underlying cause for failure, as you did here. Thanks for sharing. You ever have to drive 5 miles through town with no clutch? It is an adventure. I guess it depends on who's box you are outside of..huh?

If I don't spring a leak while working on a car........something ain't right. :)

Here is another thing you might try- Remove the line from the slave, see if you can pull the line up into the engine bay so that the end of the line is above the master. Have someone slowly pump the clutch pedal and push the air out of the line, let the fluid run into a cup or jar, do this until all of the air is out of the line and pump. Then put a vacuum line cap on the end of the line and drop the line back down to the trans. Take the slave and put the line end down in a jar of fluid and push the rod in and out a couple of times to get the air out of the slave, reinstall the line to the slave and reinstall the slave. If you have air trapped in your line....your master may not have enough stroke to get the air out and gravity bleeding may not be enough....by doing what I suggested you are making certain that no air can be trapped in the line. If you still have air in the system......you have a leak somewhere......consider replacing the entire system.

You'll likely never get the pin out with the master still on the truck, so you'll have to take the master off. Fill the reservoir with fluid and pump it by hand until the fluid spills out of the hole for the line out, pump a couple of short pumps to get the air out of the pump, put the cap back on, reinstall. Then gravity bleed the line, making sure the reservoir does not empty. Tighten the bleed screw or reinstall the line to the slave. Pump the pedal for a minute or so the get any air out of the slave and line, top off your master.

You'll have $6K invested when it's said and done..........just a guess.

When does this get installed? Can you post a vid of it running?

His master is not pushing enough fluid to disengage the clutch completely, that's why going into 1st is difficult.......synchros into 2 are going out. Sychros into 3 and 4 and 5 and good and he does not notice the clutch not fully disengaging. I have no idea where he is sucking air at....my guess is the O-rings are dried out or torn or.....? Also, he could have a weak hard line that is soft and expanding or it could be cracked.......but somewhere I would think he'd leak fluids. But my guess is the plunger on his master is passing fluid and it just has not begun to leak out the back yet. I bench bled the master, gravity bled the slave.......and pump the $#!& out of it for about 2 minutes........rock solid after that.

I found a 98 Dakota in the PnP with a 4cyl and what looks like an AX15. It's a 2W so I'm only interested in the bell housing. I assume it's an AX but Dakota also used a NV1500 and a NV3500, how will I know the difference? will the bell be the same regardless? Can I assume the shifter will be in the same location? Will the drive shaft need to be cut down? What advantage would I have with the AX15 behind a 2.5, or is there an advantage? I have a newer AX5 on the shelf waiting to go in. A have priced around and they seem to be around $700-$800........that alone may stop me. What say you? Thanks

$1500.......you stole it. Yes there are a lot of $700 MJs that are trashed rust buckets. You got an excellent deal here.

What did you pay for it? Nice score....straight and clean is rare......hope you keep it that way.

Just cause it ain't leaking does not mean it's good. My master was weak........did not leak. Now the one I replaced it with 14 months ago leaks but works great......I have one on order and should be in tomorrow. I assume you have an external? Does it have a bleed screw?

You won't generate enough heat in 15-20 seconds of run time to do any damage.

Next time I buy........... http://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/allstar-performance-braided-steel-brake-lines I just got off the phone with Summit.........if you find them cheaper......they will not only match but come below any advertised price. They beat the price on a SPAL switch I just bought. I ran braided steel lines on my motorcycles back in the day.

Who built your rear bumper......I like that a lot!

My wife is cooking some stuffed cabbage.........I'm staying home:P

Image Not Found E14 Torx or 10mm multi-socket or 12 point. The bolt is 4" long.........maybe 12 1.50

If it's a stick.......push start it. The bolts are funky star heads.........12pt sockets only........IIRC.

The pic of the two together....... The top one looks like a mid 80s AMC tach. The lower looks like a late 80s through 90s Chrysler tach. I'm no expert........just a guess base on what I've seen.

I also have an Eclipse head and amp........out of the truck to be reinstalled at a later time........ I would suggest starting from scrap. Isolate each wire out of the head to the amp......may have a sub output also from the head. Check each wire out of the amp to the speakers......sub also.........run them down........check all your connections. CHECK! your grounds!!!!!! I'll bet the amp is grounded to the truck body......you need to run a ground directly to the battery. Equal in size to your power wire........should be 8g. Check the settings on your head unit........should be low out to amp or high output with no amp........you may have it set for no amp, thusly overpowering the amp's input. You said the rear speakers did not work sometimes........wires may have grounded out.........this is why you need to run them down. No half measures.

You know you can also have a flatbed deliver.........if arranged at their convenience you might get away with about $60.

Thanks for the input guys. My original intent was to run it out around the lower quarters as you guys suggest. Truth is, it was a matter of time, I needed haul some doors to a job on Tuesday, it just had to get done. The other thing is, I'm just not a very good finish welder. I get by with the stick welder but I have not got the hang of the mig yet......frankly, I don't like the mig. It's grown on me the way it is, I've come to like it. From a distant POV it really cleans up the rear end.

Do you have any other detail on how you accomplished the rolled edge? Have you considered doing tail lights like this?

http://forums.corral.net/forums/5-0-5-8-engine-tech/1203579-slack-new-timing-chain-2.html You may find that an interesting read.

I believe the concern is heat build up.........but keep moving and you should be alright. Or you can spend $15+ for a piece of flex to get you there.