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set89

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About set89

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    Comanche Fan

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    olympia
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    anything jeep
  1. Automatic tranny... how "often" and how "long" do you spend at five grand. I'm lucky if the tranny even lets me hit 4500rpms. Seems to work great for me and others as well. I just thought I would let you know the pulley works great and functions better than the stock pulley for around town. It still pulls 7 pounds of vacuum at 60mph and only sees boost if my foot asks it to. I'm sure your stock pulley will suit you just fine but after using both I will definitely keep the 54mm on mine. P.S. this is just my opinion not a rant. Best of luck with your project.
  2. I have my personal opinion about strokers and their reliability. But we'll just say I will take my supercharger over a stroker any day of the week. I have been daily driving mine for about 6 months now and still get a grin every time I hit the gas and hear that weeeeeeeee . :MJ 1: . coming from the engine. I have also swapped the stock pulley (58mm) for the pulley off of a stock jeep alternator (54mm... and free). Boost now comes in almost 1000 rpms sooner. Also added some bed sliders that have been sitting in my garage for nearly a year. Sadly though, I think the day is nearing where I might sell it. Never thought it would happen, but I have now decided to go back to college and it's my only vehicle right now. Not the most practical daily driver at 12mpg and burning up $2000 worth of rubber on the paved road. Plus I have zero time to finish my sliders and rear bumper. But if a can manage I will keep it, just not sure yet.
  3. If you have a spare stock jeep alternator laying around you can rob the pulley from it. With a little modification it can be made to work with the sprintex. That's what I did. Went from a stock 58mm sprintex pulley to a 54mm jeep alternator pulley. I still haven't got it over 6 pounds, but the boost now comes in almost 1000 rpms lower. I'm also still running a stock size throttle body which is restrictive but doesn't change the fun factor.
  4. set89

    No Roads Required - Off Road Show

    Just a few pics from last year.
  5. Fast Specialties 3rd Annual "No Roads Required" Off-Road Show at Portland International Raceway September 20, 2014 (Saturday) noon to 4 pm Fast Specialties’ off-road show "No Roads Required" is back for another year so get ready for an exciting day of everything off-road! The show is open to anything and everything that goes off-road. Whether you’re driving a Jeep, Land Cruiser, rally car, rock crawler, buggy or something that you don’t have a name for, we want you down at PIR showing it off! Special thanks go out again this year to the Pacific Northwest 4-Wheel Drive Association - Region 3 for their generous contribution for 2014. Last year they helped to bring the Fast Specialties "No Roads Required Off-Road Show" to the Portland International Raceway and it will be even bigger and better for 2014! This is really a great chance to just get together, show your rig(s) and walk around getting ideas from what others have done. Very fun show to hang out at and talk with other enthusiasts. Hope to see some other Comanches there. :cheers:
  6. Check these guys out. They have a SOA kit you can buy separate of their complete lift kit for about $199. This will match your dana 44 and not require welding. It keys in with the original perch. I actually ran this complete lift on my jeep about 7 years ago when I was still on 33's. For the price it actually performed nice but its not the most advanced lift out there. So if you have your heart set on a long arm kit and lots of wheel travel, I would suggest finding a front kit that meets your needs and purchasing the rocky-road rear SOA kit separate. Sorry I can't give you an opinion of the Rustys kit. I have no first hand experience them. :cheers: http://www.rocky-road.com/jeep-comanche-lift-kit.html
  7. Well small update. Made a novice mistake during install. :doh: Got everything put back together and fired it up only to hear a horrible exhaust leak. :fs1: Turns out that the manifold gasket I got with my 2000-2001 cheap header was a port match for the 91-99 cylinder head. Basically, no matter how much I torque the header bolts down there is still a big piece of gasket missing where the manifold meets. Anyway "my bad" and after a song and dance of colorful language its all back together with the proper gasket. Hope to install my bigger injectors and reflash the AEM to match in the next day or two. Wrong gasket top and new correct gasket bottom. You can see all the soot marks where it was leaking. Just an over lap picture to show the port difference between the older heads and newer (smaller port) heads.
  8. Well to hard to tell from the pics, but I would say support the rear axle off the ground with something a little more secure than a concrete block and run it in gear with a "good" wheel attached. Watch as the wheel spins and look for any wobble. I built a wrangler from the frame up a few years ago from a rear ended donor I got from a friend. That one had been hit at 65 mph and tweaked the frame pretty bad. The dana 35 rear (which is inferior to your dana 44) that was in it had a bent axle shaft but the housing was fine. Visually I couldn't tell until I had the tires spinning and could see the wobble. I guess the point I'm trying to make is that while not impossible that the housing is bent I think it unlikely and you might just need a replacement shaft. One last option should the entire axle need to be replaced, you could probably pic up a ford explorer 8.8 with disc and LSD for cheap. In my area about $200 and use a bit of the money to regear the front axle to match. Then you would have a disc brake upgrade, LSD, and lower gears (Ford 3.73 vs your most likely 3.55). It's a win win. Just my $.02. But I can also understand wanting to keep it Jeep pure. Good luck with your build.
  9. For those who are local or those that want to make the drive. This is a pretty good event and lots of deals to be had. In the past even 4wheelparts had a booth. So some new parts as well as used. I don't think I really need anything right now but I'm going anyway just to look around. Free parking but $10 to get in. March 9, 2014 SHARE: SHARE ON FACEBOOKSHARE ON TWITTER SHARE ON EMAIL DETAILS Hours: 9am-4pm Location: Sleep Country ShowPlex, Show Arena, & Centennial Building Enter at Blue Gate Admission: General Admission: $10.00 Contact: Jon & Michelle O'Brien Phone: 360-264-2131 Sponsored by Spanaway Moonshiner Jeep Club Contact Info: swapmeet@moonshinersjeepclub.com Website: http://www.moonshinersjeepclub.com
  10. So I spoke with Gary Turner today, who is the sprintex USA rep, and got my few questions worked out. As far as the PS reservoir is concerned, he said the XJ/MJ kit requires a ZJ 4.0 reservoir to clear the supercharger case. Something like this. NOTE: not my engine bay, just a picture I found online. But you can see the return line comes off the side of the res instead of the rear. I have already modified and plastic welded my res to work, so I will try it first before going this route. As for the unknown bracket tab. Apparently these were made to fit right hand drive models because of the development over seas and for the American left hand drive market, they just machined the top few inches off but mine got missed. So I will just use a cutoff wheel to take it down a bit. Gary also sent me a PDF file with install instruction although I am 90% done now. But if anyone else picks up one of these kits and needs the PDF I will be happy to forward it. Also, on a side note Gary was very nice and informative to talk to. I am still very happy with my sprintex kit and understand that it was a prototype kit that may require some modifying to work, but then again what doesn't when it comes to a jeep. :shake:
  11. Well some progress has been made but I'm far from my original goal. I have yet to acquire the F&B 68mm throttle body, water meth injection, and a replacement exhaust header (Gibson ceramic). The cheap header I purchased was modified to clear the intake manifold but with very minimal clearance and I worry about heat soak. So it was a nice $125 learning experience. :doh: On a positive note I do have my wide band 02 on its way and have already picked up a boost gauge and cheap laptop for tuning. So the new plan is to install what I currently have and get it running on the 5-6 psi while collecting the other parts I want over the next few months. (68mm throttle body, smaller pulley to up the boost to around 10psi, water meth kit, probably a spectre CAI to help with temps, new Gibson header 97-99 style because they don't make a 00-01 for my application, and finish the exhaust off with a high flow cat and 2.5" from the header back.) So sorry about the dyno promise but I'm going to wait till I have everything. Anyway, on to what I have done. AEM installed and calibrated, and supercharger about 85% installed. Still need to hook up fuel line, throttle body, belt, and modify the PS res. Regardless how bolt on they say this kit is, I keep running into little road blocks but nothing that can't be fixed with a little bit of time and a lot of questionable language :mad: . Enjoy the pics. :cheers: AEM harness that I extended to reach inside the cab. Where I will splice into the factory harness. Right before the dreaded first cut :crossfingers: First connection. A little booger of solder. Last pic of the stock intake. One of my road blocks. This is all the hardware i received in the kit. Only got 2 mount bolts for the supercharger but it requires 6. Also, the pulley bracket seems different compared to other installs I have seen. Has an extra tab at the top that has been threaded as if to put a pulley or something there, but can't seem to find a purpose for it on my install. :hmm: New intake installed. Bracket mocked up. PS mocked up before install. Notice res still attached. Charger installed. Notice no PS res. Another road block. First you have to bend the crap out of the hard line to route it over the charger. Kit advertised as no modification needed for install. Bending a hard line a little bit is pretty minor, fair enough, but the back of the res (where the return line sits) comes in contact with the charger case. It is hard mounted to the pump so there is no adjustment to help. Currently modifying the back of the res with a 90* elbow to keep the line from pinching. So a little closer look and you can see the extra tab (left) that go's nowhere. Also, the lower left bolt on the charger snout housing is right about where the PS res has contact. Side view of res contact with charger. Top view of res contact. One final shot before I got rained out for the day. (Note) PS res is just sitting in place, I still need to modify it. That's it for now. :wrench:
  12. Found some time this weekend to finally situate the wiring for all my accessories and mount the LED lights that I have had since last summer. Found this marine grade power distribution block locally at ERI (Electronic Resourcing Inc). It will allow me to run many accessories without a mess of spaghetti going to the battery. Just one Main power wire from the battery to the block. All the accessory wires just come through the driver side firewall and connect with an singe screw. I did opt not to use the red 0 gauge power wire in the pic and instead used some black 2 gauge I had laying around. Less of an eyesore. Where it will sit. LED flood lights that I purchased from superbrightleds.com Very good quality for the price. $50 each CONS: To bright to be usable on public roads PROS: BAF (Bright As F***) Great for offroad use. Random pic of one of my past Jeeps. So comfy with 33's and full leather package. I miss it :( Old pic of 97' swap How she looked for several years.
  13. Slow progress on the supercharger, but here are a few pics anyway. Quick note on the header I bought. After researching other jeep owners that have done the Sprintex supercharger install it has been noted that many aftermarket brands do not fit with the new short runner manifold. Only one that has been noted to work has been the Gibson brand header for the 97-99 4.0 and of course the OEM design. I could not find a 2000-2001 style Gibson header so instead of dropping $550 on a name brand that I would have to chop I opted for a Speed Daddy T304 stainless unit off of ebay for $150 ($125 after promo). The overall quality of this header seems decent and would probably be a nice addition to any 4.0. But after seeing how it fits with the short runner intake I realize there is severe contact. In hindsight the pacesetter unit for around $200 looks to be a better fit with less modding but I will still see if I can make this one work. Now on to the pics. Header before modding Clearance Issues (intake can't sit between header flange because of contact) Idea... degree manifold to clear Let the cutting begin Not done but you get the idea From the top My AEM unit (so many wires :grrrr: ) This is an automotive grade connector I scored from work so I can extend the harness from the engine bay to the cab and keep my AEM safe from the elements. Both are 12pin probably will use all 24 but should be enough to wire all I need. Rubber seal style connectors (engine bay safe) That's about it for now :wavey:
  14. I feel your pain on the no swaybar. Sold mine to a friend with the intentions of putting an Antirock on right away. Well almost a year later I finally got around to it. Surprisingly, my jeep was pretty manageable on the road without one. Probably due to the wide track and stiff front springs. But I must say HUGE improvement now having one back. :D As far as offroad use, I have not had the opportunity yet but will post as soon as I do. On the limiting flex question, I think the trade off for stability over shadows the little I might have lost, and you can always disconnect it if you want to impress on the RTI ramp. Also while the antirock is not meant to be disconnected offroad, it is very quick and easy to adjust (less than 5 min). Currently I run it on the second to tightest setting but before any wheeling trip I will set it up on the softest setting before leaving my house. :cheers:
  15. Ahh, :rolleyes: back in the old 33" days. I miss my 33's sometimes. Fuel mileage was better, I didn't have to jump to get in, and everything seemed simpler and less expensive. But sometimes Jeeps have a will of their own, and mine keeps eating $$ and getting fatter. :fs2: Anyway, back to your question. The first lift I put on (that is in the picture you spoke of) was a Rocky Road Outfitters 5" with Rough Country upper and lower control arms. Rocky Road uses a 3" Old Man Emu spring with a 2" spacer up front and a spring over bracket in the back. I have read mixed reviews on what people think of this lift, but in my opinion it is a good lift for the money. With the control arms it road nice down the road and I never had a problem with bump steer or death wobble. Hope that helps a little. Oh and on a side note... the tires I had at the time were Dick Cepek FCII AT. LOVE these tires and if I ever went back to an AT I would get them again. Balanced nice, were quiet down the road, and did quite well in the snow.
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