Jeep Driver

FYI- If you go to the 5165 in the front, body up, obviously.

Yep, fronts only. Bilstein lists nothing on their site but is has been discussed just about everywhere. Listen through the first 1 minute-

As far as I know........higher end shocks such as Fox, King, and others are body up. 5100s are at the bottom of the high-end shocks.

The bottom of his boots, now at the top of his shocks, have drain holes at the eyelet. 5100 series are mounted body up, boot down. Many of us just take the boot off- My next set don't even come with boots- Also note, his labels are upside down.

Upside down. And put a few coats of clear on those or they'll look like S in no time.

What shocks do you have on the rear?

I've driven 23 hours straight for less. Where's your man-card? Both of those will fit in the trunk. Bring cardboard/boxes and plastic bags/rags. Take the bells off.

Consider something similar- Cross bar is 3"x.25 wall tube, everything else is 3/8 plate. I did not mount the receiver high for two reasons, I wanted to keep the tag where it belongs, secondly- many hitch designers/companies split the cross bar into two pieces, I don't like that, it weakens the cross bar, IMO. But, you certainly can so that you don't lose ground clearance. Also, if you add a 2" receiver.......it IS a hitch, it is NOT simply a recovery point........design it to tow, just because you won't doesn't mean someone else won't. If designed properly, I see no reason to incorporate the shackle bolt.....in fact, I would not.

Thanks guys. I was asked this question last week- I intended to do a short vid to describe what I did and why I did it.........but........... There are battery mounted fuses in different configurations and values, the Ford fuse seemed most logical to me. Fused links- What are the values? Do the values change with length? Do the values change over time? IOWs, Will new fuse be more apt to burn more quickly than a 32 year old fuse, or vice versa? Seems that no one has an answer. Cluster F---? I've done it, I see it done here......everywhere....... Top post battery with 13 different wires bolted to the cable clamp.......another circuit.....eh, what's one more wire? Zero complaints, short to ground, truck burns? Recently someone complained of the headlight switch melting down, took the connector too. Common problem, what's not a common complaint is a burnt fused link. So, how reliable are Links? Not at all in my opinion, opinion based on evidence. Only two circuits I'm aware of that are always hot and not ran through the fuse block are the ignition circuit and the headlight circuit, everything else is protected by the fuse block. One wire shorts to ground- will it bring down the all five circuits? Possible. But then, if your ignition circuit shorts..........you are SOL anyway. Two fused posts, on the left is the 200 amp post, alt is connected there. Right is the 100 amp post, five circuits connected there, one lug (what used to be the fused links). Center to starter relay......this is unchanged from original. I'm not suggesting anyone do anything- If your existing wiring is a rats nest, if you are not competent or you believe you are not competent to diagnose or run down a problem circuit, if you don't understand how your truck is wired, if you are not interested in learning, if it's just not your bag.........leave it alone. Mindset- I read it here a lot -"it's not how the factory did it"-. I could not give two S----s what a defunct company did 32 years ago. None of us have concours worthy trucks and even if one exists it ain't worth what you think it is. That mindset is a faulty one. Does it work? Yes, it works.

Two more coats of clear.........got it this time. Next week I'll cut-n-buff and begin cleaning the inside for bed liner.

That's not a carburetor

Or-

This has got to be the source of your problem.

Where did you get the cap? Where can I find one? And, BTW, thank you, looks great! I like it, I can pass on the tool box though.

Curious about a couple of things- What keeps it from leaking? Pooling water? Where does it go? Does it come with a tailgate rail/trim/cap? How does it attach? Does the cover lock to the gate? Is there a way to lock the gate?

Temp sensor.

The top image is a XJ, I have one as a spare and I had two XJs with those. The bottom one is a Wrangler, which is the one in question here. Similar but different.

The XJ ones look exactly like that but they are different

https://strykermotors.com/products/97-06-jeep-wrangler-tj-5-spoke-wheel-rim-5x4-5-mopar-15-inch-3

Check at commercial kitchen supply houses.......used pantry shelving are perfect, I have one.

Third time is a charm but I'm getting there. I got a new spray gun and that helped out a lot.

Anywhere else, any other forum with an active marketplace, it is forbidden to hijack a sales thread. It's also in poor taste to post pics of your truck/project in someone else's build thread, unless it's absolutely pertinent to illustrate a solution to a problem. For all that is not tolerated here, I've always been surprised that these two things are tolerated. Someone is offering a bell housing for the Hemi/Chrysler swap, AX15 or 3550. Meet Manny, Hemi swap is not for the faint of heart. Although I disagree with a few things like Heims being used as steering components- This is what a well built truck looks like. I've not seen this posted here before. https://rocksolidfab.com/manny-the-manche