Jeep Driver

If your steering shaft is worn you'll have more play than you might think. Just replaced my and all the play is gone.

No, I didn't know that. Never had one nor seen one.

I'll have to make up my own eye to eye link using stock links......there are good ones out there but the length will be too long I'm afraid.

Yeah, don't want to pay $225 for an additional 1mm. Also, the goal to go eyelet to eyelet on the link.

I think the idea behind the valve is to keep the heat out of the dash as so it would not compete with the AC. My valve will go to valve heaven too when I install the new engine.

I pulled a bar off a 2004 WJ some time back and immediately realized it would not fit. Took the bar back to the PnP and then later thought I'd MAKE it fit...so I waited. Another 2004 showed up at the PnP, got another. With the idea that I'd shorten the bar ends and weld on new eyes. Well, that didn't work either- Hits the tires at full lock. Image Not Found But the mounts bolted right up, there is even a third threaded hole for the longer mount- Image Not Found You can see the differences here- Image Not Found The largest XJ bar I could find is 28mm and is currently on the MJ. The largest WJ bar I could find is the 30mm. I removed a WJ bar off a 2002 (IIRC) and it felt hollow, I looked at the eyelets and it seemed to be stamped. The only solid bar I could find, felt heavy enough, and does not appear to be stamped, is the 2004 WJ and both were off the Overland or the Up Country. So, now I wait again. This time I want to try to move the entire bar out on the frame, just behind the bumper, I think then it would clear the tires and the pitman arm. Has anyone successfully mounted the WJ bar to the MJ? Frame question- Near the bar mount are three threaded holes, each side of the frame. The torque dampener was mounted to one side- now gone. I have read and also seen- some have attached a bar from one side of the frame to the other to strengthen the frame at either the steering box or the track bar. Would there be any advantage to using the bar that I cut up and welding it to two plates that would then be bolted to each frame at the three holes I just mentioned? Thanks

If it were me, taking your stated position of retaining the original housing. Shop and purchase ALL your own parts. Deliver the parts with the truck and request a quote for labor ONLY! Keep it simple. Why do the brakes yourself when they have to do them anyway? By the time you purchase new parts...... I have no idea why they say the carrier itself is bad- that said, I'd seek out a new trac-lok unit. New R&P. All new bearings. New seals. New drums and shoes. On the cheap side- you'll be at $800 in parts If you go with trac-lok you'll be at $1100 in parts With $600 labor. You'll be anywhere from $1200 to $1700. Add 20-30% if they supply parts. And you won't even get a kiss.........

Having done the 8.25 conversion myself, it is a chore, but I'd do it again. Would I pay $800 to repair a D35? absolutely not. You are in a lurch, not being able to fix this yourself. I'd look for other options though.

Clean your TB.

Well, you got an engine, trans, D44, and bucket seats.........for $1000.

Temp sender in the intake or the intake air sensor. When was the last time you replaced the O2?

Check your battery cables and grounds again.

There should be a fusible link off the alt.....check that first.

http://www.bobsspeedometer.com/1/120/services.asp

I have the four spring bushings. NAPA also carries the shackle bushing if you have one near you. Seriously, the shipping will be expensive. And........I'll have to get the bushings out.

Yes, of course. But no one can connect the dots, apparently.

TPS is adjusted correctly? The orifice from the TB to the MAP is clear? not clogged?

No. If air is being forced out, your crankcase is over pressurized. Likely it is ring failure.

I have the JKS shackles with Poly and it's all good. I also have the JKS adjustable track bar with jonnyjoint and I'm good with that. I'm ordering Ironman's uppers and lowers with Poly in the next day or two, Andy swears up and down that I'll be good and it'll save me $100 We'll see. If you were not in the Great White North I'd send you a nearly new set of NAPA Chassis bushings that I paid $100 for..........shipping would be damn near that....sorry.

MAP ICA TPS O2 Or vacuum leak It's one of those.

Every time this subject comes up, I ask the man to remover the oil fill while at idle and see if air is being forced out. And yet, I'm ignored. Laziness or fear? What is it?

http://www.streetsideauto.com/p/superior-12-1500/?utm_source=googlepepla&utm_medium=adword&gclid=Cj0KEQjwgI6pBRDak6aRovWNqLsBEiQA8zZSLmEfKDwfm-l70d_-u27ipQ-zoVz8NzjBoFx0aQVoAgwaAtpW8P8HAQ It is this, a kit. Yes, it's BS but it is not something someone cobbled up.

I think he's referring to 100% of his wallet ........ :rolleyes:

Rebuilding.......one piece at a time... :) Image Not Found

Thanks guys. The first WJ set I put on were take offs from the PnP and I put them on the way I took them off. I'm convinced that I have an alignment problem, everything sort of changed after I installed the new ball joints. One of my ball joint came out in pieces and the alignment was to the old lowers and ball joints.....IOWs I changed too much after the last alignment.