Jeep Driver

Last thing you want to do is lose a wheel bearing. If you can't do it yourself and you have a COMPETENT shop.......maybe it's time to get it there.

Thank you, Hornbrod.

I took out 1/8" of shim from each side today and that seemed to help a little. Steering got a little better. Could be my caster is way off. After the arms are installed, there is a good shop local to me and the guy is good with Jeep and he understands the suspension, I'll have him align it.

Yeah, I know. Just behind the driver's tire...that angle. Yeah, the camera perspective is off, the shock mount is more level than shown here.

Static- Image Not Found Front tire to flare 3.25 and rear is 2.75.........I'll move the axle .25" forward. Image Not Found

Terraflex D30 cover- $99 Crown steering shaft- $95 Ironman Fabrication UCAs and LCAs $440 Fuel Maverick Wheels, 9x18, $980 Nitto 285/60-18 $989 Curt front receiver $ 101 Bushwacker flares $ 413 Warrior Prod. 560 bumper $330 New total- $16,517

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What wheels do you have? Tires good? I'd go through the brakes then.....take apart and inspect. Could be a bad bearing or a crack in the drum or hub of the wheel or hub cap or center cap............who knows????? until you strip it down.

I had a similar problem, believe it or not........it was a wheel weight smacking a brake cable.

Brake line makes a wonderful vacuum line. Image Not Found

I"ll post pics.

Thanks.

Yeah, both. I'm considering Ironman's arms. Two reasons- the WJ hits the shock mount and I want to move the axle out about 1/2" to center the wheel before I go 285/60/18. And.....I'm moving the lowers and Ravines over to the XJ. 3" of lift.

I have fixed OEM style control arms now. During the original install of the axle and the last two times I've had it disconnected, I could get the two uppers bolted and one lower bolted easily but the last bolt of the lower was a b*@$£. When I installed new springs several weeks ago I noticed that the upper driver's side bushing looked like it has be stressed, worn. I'm assuming that the two uppers are out of alignment. Question is- When I install the adjustables, do I adjust the upper to each mount or do I make certain that each arm is the same length and then use the ratchet strap on the last bolt? Thanks

After 25 years....................what do you expect?. Could be corrosion, too.

Ordered, probably better for clearance anyway.

The PO of mine ran new speaker wire, I suspect for the same reason yours is not working. Run new wires to new speakers and you'll get sound. Edit: And run the ground....or a ground........to the head unit body, ground it, you'll get better reception.

Yes I have heard of this and I think it has something to do with the extended gas tank. I have the short WB and the 16gal tank and mine used to come in from the front before I did the disc swap.

I'm no expert....that said- You'll limit your shock travel with the mount on top.

It's a no go, they don't have one.

Take a cheap air hammer bit, cut the end off so you have a blunt hammer bit. Use rubber hose to connect the bit to the hammer end of the punch. Use the air hammer to loosen or drive the pin out......short burps. You'd be surprised with a small amount of vibration will do to stuck pin.....ball joints.......etc... You'll have to hold the punch and bit together with your hand....all the fuel hose will do is keep the bit from running off the punch.

Did you use a roll pin punch?

Drill out the old pin and install a new over sized pin.

When I asked the autoglass people here in town and told them what I wanted........he said "no problem......$175 installed".

Why?