Jeep Driver

Also- just a pic but you get the idea.

If I were to do it all over again............I won't.........but.......... I'd use the 2 barrel Sniper on the 2.5 It's the way of the world now...........these 'stroker' guys have not caught up yet. Mix at the plenum, not at the valve. I know others have done it, see what you can find. Leave the Renix/Chryco people behind.

Take it out, clean it, look inside, tiny hole.........if it's metered, you'll know it. And yes, it must be metered.

Interesting that someone took some initiative. Now, what material? Durable? Left, right, can you reproduce these perfectly every time? Where's the backup light? Pic of housing where the sockets insert? Cost of production? Price? One man band? How many can you produce in one week or one month?

In my case- I needed to get rid of the remote reservoir, I scoured the PnP, the WJ pump I found was clean, looked new, dry on the outside, I took it. 20-30 minutes to drill and tap. Was a matter of what was available. Wasn't a matter of 'worth it' or 'not worth it'........wasn't a matter of some upgrade BS. ZJ box, steering feels more normal than with the AMC pump/box, steering is tight with more feedback. What works is 'worth it'. It works, that's all I cared about.

Yes, there is a compound radius. And the top is not the same as the bottom either. You don't have to like what I did to my tail lights (I'm not certain I like what I did) to appreciate the difficulty of it. Not sure if you are fully aware of whats going on today with China, virus not to mention a diminishing supply chain and slave labor....? When this S--t all shakes out I believe there will be some backlash against China, to some degree. Enough is enough with the cheap S--t, look elsewhere. You won't get this done for $10K and if you do, I doubt you'll recoup 20%. Ask Krusty how many hitches he sold, 20 maybe? I know for a fact is was not profitable to him, maybe satisfying to some degree, but certainly not profitable. As will be with any attempt you make, or anyone. There is no market here to reward your effort.

Post some part numbers please.

Here's my guess. You ordered for a '98ZJ and what you got was a '99WJ shaft. When you go to Autozone, have them pull one for a '94.

Take your old shaft into Autozone, compare. If same, pay and go, be happy. Now you have an aggravation.

Here's your problem.

There are a couple of other solutions. Look deeper.

Now you are just rubbing it in.

'04 WJ pump on Renix. Drill and tap, bolt to mount.

No, no I don't.

I'm getting as far away from Renix/Chryco as I can............can't run fast enough or far enough.

I looked that over, have no idea how to translate their mount info. Shrugged.

No Moog for me. Plenty of expensive lessons to be learned.

I have the ZJ shafts, no problem. Did you compare shaft to shaft? What year ZJ?

Back in '14 I had one long conversation with one of the guys at Hesco regarding the last of the custom grind 2.5 cams. That phone call stopped me dead in my tracks. The fact that anyone at Hesco suggested the timing gear to be the cause........does not surprise me, but it should.

Have a big-world view, gather as much information as you can, learn all you can before you make a decision. As mentioned, rod angle, Engine Masters just did a long vs short rod comparison, you need to understand basic theory. I'm not going to post vids here but there are a number of good engine builders on youtube, discern and watch, learn. Theory and knowledge applies to all engines. Free and Cheap are very very expensive. Choose parts/materials/machine shop wisely. There is a guy on NAXJA who is currently tearing down a 1 year/5000 mile stroker he built. You'll find him on page two of modified. I believe he's got a material problem, he may have lost his crank. He's so busy telling everyone else what-for that he can't solve his own problem. Don't be a guy who creates his own problem. Just an observation of mine- Jeep people suffer tunnel vision, just because everyone else is doing X does not mean you should be doing X. You've mentioned in other threads that you are considering selling the MJ...........that weighs on this decision also. You are a young guy, I know you have help (dad), however, my suggestion- Get one basic rebuild under your belt. Crank, pistons, machining, head work, gaskets......etc..........will cost you $2000. The experience will be priceless. Basic first, learn.............then...............

Fill with JB Steel Stick, let stand overnight, drill and tap. You'll find cheap core bits at HD or Lowes in the tile dept or in the bit isle.

I drove with it unplugged for 5 years. It does nothing.

So simple cheap and easy even I can do it.

$20 shipped if you want them.